Twin Picks: Ashish X Topshop

One of our standout shows during February’s AW14 season was Ashish. It was at the colourful and glittery display, at the Topshop showspace at Tate Modern that we learned that a tenth collaboration was on its way. Well, today is that day. Ashish x Topshop SS14 has landed and it’s as tongue-in-cheek as we expected. Titled Beach Please!, the capsule collection features oversized t-shirts, fluoro swimsuits and bikinis, wrap dresses and skirts as well as LED footwear. “I love this collection, it’s perfect for the beach and for pool parties, and they have the best ones at the Paradise Hotel,” stated Ashish Gupta. “I hope it’s going to be as much fun to wear as it has been to design!” Here Twin picks our top four pieces from this fun-loving collaboration.

White LED Leather Sliders, £250, topshop.com & Fluro Orange Backless Swimsuit, £45, topshop.com

Censored Mesh Dress, £65, topshop.com & LED Light Up PVC Backpack, £250, topshop.com

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Twin Meets Faustine Steinmetz

“It’s not about design, it’s all about the clothing,” states Faustine Steinmetz when we meet in her East London studio. In a large, light-filled room, surrounded by looms, her small team (which she calls artisans) and two adorable dogs, we sat down to talk about the current collection, her obsession with denim and old lady books.

Tell us a about your first fashion memories….
I grew up in Paris in a very fancy neighbourhood, in the 16th Arrondissement with my grandparents. That’s probably my first fashion memory; my grandmother with her very classic, beautiful outfits. A lot of Chanel and even if it wasn’t Chanel, it looked like Chanel. She would take me to Galeries Lafayette all the time to choose our clothes.

Did you always want a career in fashion?
No, I wanted to be an artist for a very long time but I did one painting and it didn’t work out – it was terrible. It was a black sheep and about how society is wrong or something quite ridiculous. Then I realised it was a bit too free for me.  Art can be anything and I wasn’t comfortable with that.  So I started cutting all my pairs of jeans, making my parents very mad. I looked terrible – I would make holes in the crutch of my jeans to make it into a jacket, I would take the pockets of the back of the jeans and make them into a bag that you put around your neck. I made a skateboard in denim also. I would always cut denim into other things until my parents said they wouldn’t buy me anymore jeans. For some reason denim was always my first choice.

What attracted you to denim?
It was since the beginning, it was always very natural. I think it comes from wanting to say something. Denim is this socially and culturally important piece – it’s the piece that everyone has in their cupboard no matter what.

You like your garments to talk about garments. Can you explain a little more about that?
When I made the tapestry jeans for SS14, it took us a month with ten people doing it. To me, it was a piece that talked about fashion in general, how this type of care would only be given to an evening gown. Just switching those codes makes you question the way you wear a garment and what are they for. For AW14 we hand wove with copper so that you can crunch it the way you like and they hold in place. It was all about making your clothes your own.

Tell us about AW14…
I’m trying to find what I want to say about fashion and what type of brand I want to be. I just really want to reproduce clothes that already exist because to me that’s the strongest. I’m not interested in fashion as such, its not about the silhouette, its about the actual piece. This collection was all about Issey Miyake Peats Please because I love this idea of a brand working with the same object over and over again but making it different every time and making these collectible pieces a bit like images that you collect, like the Spice Girl pictures you collected as a kid. It’s always about working with something that already exists and making a bit of a parody of it.

So it’s not about designing…
I’m trying not to, but at the end of the day I guess I’m a designer. It’s hard for me to resist doing a representation. So I will dye a fabric and it will come out as a beautiful accident – sometimes I will dip a fabric, by mistake, and it will create a beautiful gradient which I guess designing would be like, this is beautiful, lets do this but to me because it doesn’t have a meaning, even if it breaks your heart I have to cancel the idea. It’s all about the concept and what you have to say.

You put the name of the person who made the clothes in the label. Why is that so important to you?
I think they deserve it because they have spent so long making it. Someone has taken the care that would be part of the haute couture world into a pair of jeans. To me, that is what is strong about the brand. Not only eveningwear should be made with couture techniques. If you buy a piece of clothing that costs you more that £1000 it should be something you wear everyday, a bit more neutral and culturally, I think that jeans speaks to us more than dresses. You can’t go to the party two times in the same dress. This is a pair of jeans you can wear it over and over again. I think its important people know where its coming from. And they may not understand if they see a pair of jeans that’s really expensive in the shop, because anything can be made by a machine but someone has taken a week of their life to weave this for you. It’s all made traditionally. And also, those labels their inspired by the old couture labels, when they were still writing by hand the sizes, what has been done…

You studied in Paris then came to London to do your MA at Central Saint Martins. Is that where you got the idea for reproducing denim?
No actually, I’ve always worked around parodying other designers. Parodying sounds bad, but it’s about reproducing something someone has already done and show your version of that. In my MA I was working around Chanel and I was painting and sculpting Chanel bags and printing it onto the garments all made in plasticine. I made a little Chanel world in plasticine. That was really fun.

What was your BA graduate collection about in Paris?
That was very denim. I painted denim on denim, I painted denim on jersey, I knitted denim. It was more about drawing on clothes than actually making clothes. In France they teach you proper techniques, it’s our heritage so in our schools it’s a big point of focus. And my brain just can’t figure out those things, it was like geometry, but life size – it was a nightmare. So that’s why I started to work the material and that’s what lead me to be very textile orientated and to try to push the shape design to its minimum.

Tell me about the techniques you use…
I collect loads of old lady’s books. I love old lady craft, there’s this shop in Finsbury park that I love. Every time I see a technique that looks fun, I buy the book and then I go back to it. At the moment I am looking at rug making. That’s also how I learnt hand-weaving because you can find a lot of books, with different techniques.

What are your favourite techniques/materials?
I love sampling, going to the shop and looking at all the yarns around you. What stood out for me was the copper. Its 0.01, so you have to be very patient with it.

What has been your most intricate piece that took the longest to make?
Defiantly the tapestry jeans. I’d say about ten people and a month to make them. First I hand dye all the different yarns in different shades to create the different threads, like the orange thread of the jeans and the different tones. Already that was too much, I should have said stop. And then we had to print each part of the jeans on a canvas and all follow the same guidelines. I think it was about an hour a square centimetre.

We want to develop this new thing of creating artefacts that are not really made for selling, like an old couture piece. Our version of a capsule collection, or pre-collection. That Is really the way I see this brand – a little gathering of artisans together.

As demand grows, how do you plan to deal with orders if one piece can take up to a month?
We will adapt. AW14 for example, it’s still hand woven but its not hand dyed and there is no embroidery. My aim was to make something special with cutting some of the work. Although it will still take two days to weave a pair of jeans. I’m not scared of saying no and scared of being a small brand in the right places. I still think people should feel special when they wear the piece. I don’t want to be everywhere or collaborate with high-street people. I’m not scared of growing organically and slowly. I think next season will be about expanding the brand.

Faustine Steinmetz SS14 is available online from ln-cc.com

 

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Adidas Originals Photo Print App

Customising your trainers is nothing new, although Adidas are soon to take the idea to the next level with their Photo Print App. Come August, when the app launches, you will be able to decorate your Adidas Originals ZX Flux trainer with any image you see fit. Centred around Instagram, the idea is that you can choose your favourite image from the social network and have it printed onto your kicks, but of course, the quality of the image will determine the quality of the finish. We’d love to see one of our latest SS14 editorials on some trainers, wouldn’t you?

adidas.co.uk

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Let Me Down Gently

It’s been five years since La Roux came onto the scene. Now, with a brand new album Trouble in Paradise out on 7th July, singer Elly Jackson has released the first track off the record, Let Me Down Gently. The song is a melancholic tune with a dark and moody video to boot directed by Oliver Hadlee Pearch. With a taste of what’s to come, we cannot wait to hear more.

Pre-order the album now at itunes.apple.com

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Sun City Poms

In Twin X, Danielle Levitt visits Arizona to meet the SUN CITY POMS, an acrobatic Arizonian Dance Troupe of women in their 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s. Here, Levitt captures the women in this short film to give us a greater insight into their lives, showing us that they are a force to be reckoned with.

The 10th issue of Twin is out now. Buy here.

daniellelevitt.com

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CONS Project London

Tomorrow, Thursday 22nd May, Converse CONS Project London will open in Peckham – one of the city’s most up-and-coming creative hubs. The 10-week project sets out to unleash creativity within the community, giving young people a space to be inspired and learn whilst fuelling their own passions through a series of talks, workshops and exhibitions. Festivities begin with the launch of CONS Street, a new skate spot for London designed by Jerome Campbell.

The initative is curated by five local CONS Ambassadors such as James Benenson (Urban Nerds), Alex Synamatix (The Daily Street), Scratcha DVA (Rinse/Hyperdub), Jerome Campbell (Converse Cons Skate Ambassador) and Sam Taylor (Vice/Little White Lies). You will find US hip-hop legend PUSHA T launching CONS Project London when he takes to the stage at the official opening party on Thursday 29th May. There’s plenty to get involved in with events such as the Graffiti Canvas Workshop, Skate Photography Workshop, Keeping Print Alive Seminar and a DIY Digital Media Seminar plus many more.

For more information and to register for the free events and workshops, head to conversecons.com/ldn

Cons Project London
Copeland Gallery, 133 Copeland Road, Peckham, London, SE15 3SN

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CHANEL MÉTIERS D’ART

When the news broke last December that Kristen Stewart would be the new face of Chanel, some thought it was an odd choice from Karl Lagerfeld. However, this behind the scene video shows the 24-year-old actress is a perfect fit for his ‘Romantic Western’ collection. Shot by Lagerfeld himself, the ad campaign sees Stewart in pieces from the Texas-inspired 2013/14 Chanel’s Métiers d’Art collection that debuted in Dallas. Watch the video below.

chanel.com

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Twin Picks: Chokers

When it comes to jewellery for SS14, one statement piece comes out on top. The choker is yet another 90’s trend that’s being re-introduced into our lives. This time however, it’s less Spice Girls, more Celine, taking inspiration from the chic and minimal to give us a oversized piece that works with nearly every outfit. Here, Twin picks the top four chokers on the market.

Pearl Choker, £15.99, zara.com & Giuseppe Zanotti Stud And Buckles Choker, £360, luisaviaroma.com

Annelise Michelson Gunmetal Carnivore Choker, £830, avenue32.com & Paula Mendoza Hera Gold-Plated Choker, £700, net-a-porter.com

 

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Ultimate Clothing Company

Alasdair McLellan, one of the most sought after fashion photographers has looked back to his Yorkshire roots to publish his first book, Ultimate Clothing Company. The idea for the publication centres around growing up in England; “I’ve been working on the book for years. It’s pictures of young men and landscapes, and a lot of the landscapes are from memory: places that I used to go to when I was growing up,” stated McLellan.

McLellan will be signing copies of the book tomorrow, April 16 from 5pm at Idea Books, 17-18 Dover Street, London

alasdairmclellan.com

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Danielle Foster SS14

Danielle Foster, the London-based accessory designer, focuses on texture for SS14. Embossed croc detailing features heavily in this season’s collection, decorating totes, clutches and satchels, all in the signature shapes we’ve come to love from the brand. Backpacks are a new addition to her line for SS14, found in black and white luxury leathers, while other styles are highlighted with colour blocking of cool metallic, crisp white, black and burnt orange.

daniellefoster.co.uk

Images from Danielle Foster SS14

Photographer: Agnes Lloyd-Platt
Hair & Makeup: Kim Plotel
Model: Ella @ Elite
Clothes: Charlie May

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Peppermint

Twins Miranda and Elektra Kilbey of Say Lou Lou release a video to Peppermint, taken from the Everything We Touch EP. The track is another haunting tune from the duo who do melancholy so elegantly and the video gives us an insight into the Swedish/Australian sisters lives in the studio. We find them working with producers and writing songs to create their debut album released later this year.

Everything We Touch is out June 2nd, pre-order here apple.com

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Opening Ceremony X Mickey Mouse

Opening Ceremony like to think outside the box when it comes to collaborations. Their latest sees them take inspiration from the first Mickey Mouse animated film, Steamboat Willie. Motifs taken from the infamous cartoon make their way onto button-down shirts, tees, sweatshirts, and plush-soft knit sweaters. OC also called upon its brand partners to accesorise the collaboration: New Era created classic 5950 caps and custom developed bucket hats, Vans covered the Classic Slip-On, Authentic and Sk8-Hi shoes with the Mickey Mouse prints, and Tabio did the same with finely-crafted socks.

The collection is available online and at OC London.

openingceremony.us

 

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COLLECT

Today, the International Art Fair for Contemporary Objects, COLLECT, opens at the Saatchi gallery. The showcase brings together 36 of the world’s finest galleries, all representing exceptional work from their portfolio of artists alongside seven Project Space artists. You’ll find contemporary objects ranging from ceramics and glassware to jewellery and woodwork from over 400 artists, making COLLECT the place to view and collect museum-quality contemporary craft.

“It’s such a privilege to work with the exhibitors at COLLECT, who bring expertise and exceptional work from well-known makers and new talent. Working on COLLECT for over a decade now, it’s rewarding to see the fair develop year on year, and to welcome an ever increasing variety of work from around the world. I’m particularly looking forward to seeing new work and galleries from Asia this year, and I always come away from the event learning something new.” – Daniella Wells, Show Director, COLLECT 2014.

Twin favourite Shimell & Madden are being represented by Tyger Glyn and you can find their work on show at stand no. 7.4.

COLLECT, Saatchi Gallery, London from 9 – 12 May 2014 

Find out more about the event at craftscouncil.org.uk

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PAMFLET X TWIN: MAY

Anna-Marie Fitzgerald and Phoebe Frangoul are the co-editors and co-founders of the London grrrl-zine and literary salon Pamflet. Follow them on Twitter and Instagram @Pamflet. Here they recommend two fashion and one fiction title in their May reading roundup. 

Animals by Emma Jane Unsworth (Canongate, £12.99)

Gwendoline Riley, Jean Rhys and Dorothy Parker have all successfully captured that extra special, urban-woman ennui in their fiction at various points in the past and present. Their heroines drink too much, stay out late and know those heady hours of the night when you can say whatever you want and choose not to remember in the morning. With her second novel Animals Emma Jane Unsworth explores that ennui for every twenty-first century girl who’s experienced a toxic emotional mix of failure, overindulgence and disappointment.

Its premise seems conventional – call centre worker and wannabe writer Laura is 31, engaged to earnest and dreary pianist Jim, and isn’t ready to settle down yet – will they or won’t they make it to the altar? But the real story takes place in the words spoken and the rounds of drinks shared with her best friend and flatmate Tyler over several months in Manchester. Their friendship is founded on countless nights out when they either get ‘blackout-drunk’ or ‘wedding-drunk and almost dancing’ and the afternoons afterwards, when they dissect their hazy memories and drink their way through the darkest of hangovers. Together they refuse to grow up – at least in any conventional sense – and their BFF relationship is sweetly reassuring in a cynical world.

Animals looks like a New Order record, its narrative fuelled by cheap white wine, the non-logic of the always-intoxicated and the sensuously evocative language of a writer who’s been there. I tumbled along on Laura and Tyler’s crazy nights out and laughed with them (mostly), but it’s ultimately a sobering and tender read. I can imagine that right now, somewhere, staggering around Manchester are a very real Tyler and Laura with empty purses and cracks in their phones.

The Worn Archive edited by Serah-Marie McMahon with a foreword by Jane Pratt (Drawn and Quarterly, £19.99)

‘The fashion industry is riddled with problems … Worn is how I respond to that. Because why not make fashion the way I love it, celebrating the good parts rather than spending time pointing out the bad ones?’ Editor Serah-Marie in her introduction

Canadian biannual journal Worn is serious about fashion but knows how to have fun. Even if you already have every issue of the magazine via mail order you’ll want this gorgeous collection of the highlights from its first eight years in print. Every feature is as thoughtfully designed and illustrated as it is researched and written and there are pieces on fashion theory and textiles, the history of iconic garments (‘Safety Dance: How the safety pin became a revolutionary fashion accessory’), personal memoirs (‘Make Me Real: important style lessons I learned from Courtney Love’) and practical guides to doing your laundry and knotting a tie (more complicated than you might think).

Worn fashion shoots are always more about ideas than labels and for reasons of budget and practicality they often use friends who are fashion-makers rather than models. Flicking through the spreads and features makes for a satisfying reader experience because all kinds of woman are represented on its pages: that’s just what the world of Worn looks like. Here’s to eight more years of clever, provocative and fashionable thinking.

GLOSSY BOOK OF THE MONTH: Shoetopia: Contemporary Footwear by Sue Huey and Kathryn Jenny (Laurence King, £24.95) showcases the work of forty classic and upcoming international shoe designers from France, Italy, USA, Finland, Denmark, the UK and beyond. Each label’s profile is illustrated with highlights from their latest collection. It’s a riot of complicated laces, pretty bows, delicate buckles and out-there heels that shows the breadth of talent in contemporary cobbling. There’s room for some of the most iconic styles of the past few years including Prada’s fiery stilettos, Sophia Webster’s cute booties and Camilla Skovgaard’s ankle-challenging wedges.

 

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Clym Draws Twin

Last week, when Team Twin flocked to Rififi in Mayfair to celebrate the release of our tenth issue, we met Clym Evernden, a freelance artist and illustrator. Clym started drawing at a very young age and it was during his teens that his illustrations became ocupied by fashion, often inspired by specific models such as Karen Elson, Carolyn Park and Devon Aoki, but at our party last week, it was designer Simone Rocha and blogger Ella Catliff that caught his attention.

“I’ve drawn ever since I can remember, however I’ve illustrated and been commissioned since I was around 21, when I was first commissioned by Clare Coulson for Harpers and Queen,” since then Clym’s work has featured in the pages of Vogue, Elle, Fantastic Man, i-D and AnOther Magazine, but he is now working more and more as a live event illustrator, something he himself pioneered: “I like to work from life as this helps to capture the spirit, movement, and atmosphere of my subject matter.” That it does, and with the aid of social media, these live illustrations are becoming big news in the fashion world, seeing as he was recently commissioned to illustrate live at a dinner hosted by Carine Roitfeld in Paris, in which he illustrated guests such as Arizona Muse, Kendall Jenner, and Susie Bubble.

“I tend to go for people who have extreme proportions, whether it be a long fringe, big nose, or gangly limbs,” states Clym, when asked about what attracts him to certain people, “my taste is certainly not restricted to drawing model type figures, in fact I often find these the most boring.” It’s certainly people that inspire him most, which is why he says he spends many an hour people watching. Other inspirations? “I also love music, the atmosphere and mood of a track can inspire me. At the moment I’m listening to Suede and recalling that whole trashy 90’s soho thing.”

clymdraws.com

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Relations

Tim Barber, a previous Twin contributor, opened his latest exhibition over the weekend. Relations, which showcases Barber’s most recent work, is a continuation of his photographic journey displayed at Capricious 88. The show draws from everyday experiences, pulling together rather mundane subject matter but delving deeper to find more complex narratives within. The title of the exhibition relates to the tension felt between the countless relationships in the images as well as the relationships the photographs have with each other.

Relations is open at Capricious 88, 88 Eldridge Street, New York until 23rd June 2014. 

becapricious.com

 

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Pradasphere At Harrods

This May, Harrods Knightsbridge is celebrating all things Prada. Throughout the month you’ll find a pop-up store, multiple screen displays, an elegant Marchesi café, and Pradasphere: an exhibition that explores the brand’s multivalent obsessions — from fashion and accessories to art, architecture, cinema, sport and beyond.

The centrepiece of the exhibition comprises of six displays that combine ensembles from various collections and in addition, expect to find heritage items from the archive such as shoes and bags, examples of luxury fabrics and materials as well as a Prada histrory wall that links together the design collections with all the extracurricular projects, from Fondazione Prada to Luna Rossa. There is also a screening room presenting short films from directors such as Roman Polanski, Wes Anderson, Ridley Scott, and Yang Fudong.

The 130m2 pop-up store, located on the Ground Floor of the infamous shopping destination is designed in the classic Prada style and  features women’s leather goods, accessories, jewellery and eyewear.

 

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PopArtCube

ArtCube, launching late in the summer, is an artists and creative’s playground. A place to purchase, display and create art and crafts at Second Home’s exciting 18,000 square foot warehouse right in the heart of Shoreditch. To give you a taste of what’s to come, this upcoming bank holiday weekend will play host to PopArtCube.

Festivities start on Friday 2nd May with a Black Grey White Dinner where London’s young creative crowd can come an feast on a candlelit dinner and marvel at the incredible art installations from 30 of London’s finest student talent, accompanied by live performances from Azari & III. Tickets also give you free entry to the Space Cowboy’s afterparty at Casa Negra. From Saturday to Monday, you’ll find over 100 artists work, with a chance to buy the pieces along with workshops, live art and music performances.

For more information about the event and to buy tickets head to art-cube.co.uk.

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Linda Farrow SS14 Still Life

To showcase the key pieces from their Spring/Summer 2014 collection, Linda Farrow called upon Belgium photographer Frederick Vercruysse to create this still life campaign. This season inspiration is taken from the 70’s, utilising hyper-luxe materials including snakeskin and gold to give us the adventurous styles Linda Farrow has become renowned for.

Available in the new Mount St store as well as lindafarrow.com.

 

 

 

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Twin Picks: Swimwear

Whether you have a resort-collection worthy holiday booked or just simply plan on lying by the pool at Shoreditch House this summer, swimwear is bound to be on your mind. Here at Twin we’re adversed to the itsy bitsy, and prefer to lounge around in quality materials and contemporary designs, just like these four sets. When it comes to swimwear SS14, we needn’t look any further than Triangl, Prism, Lisa Marie Fernandez and Beth Richards.

Twiggy Stardust Neoprene Bikini, £48, international.triangl.com & Lisa Marie Fernandez Red Neoprene Bikini, £200, thecorner.com

Prism Denim Bikini, £200, thecorner.com & Beth Richards Faye Tank in White, £79, wald-berlin.de and Brigitte Bottoms in Black, £90, selfridges.com

 

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