In our second Twin Backstage series, we focus on the last stop during fashion month, Paris. We sent photographer Masao Yufu backstage at Tsumori Chisato’s AW14 show to document everything that happened behind the scenes.
Pamflet x Twin: March
10.03.2014 | Literature | BY: admin
Anna-Marie Fitzgerald and Phoebe Frangoul are the co-editors and co-founders of the London grrrl-zine and literary salon Pamflet. Here they discuss the releases, trends and going’s on in the literary world worth knowing about. Follow them on Twitter and Instagram @Pamflet.
This month’s literary picks include the reissue of a controversial classic and a very modern love story…
Naomi Wood’s Mrs Hemingway (Picador, out now) tells the story of Ernest Hemingway’s four wives in a series of flashbacks and interlocking first person narratives. The macho, huntin’ shootin’ fishin’ Hemingway is depicted by turns as selfish, needy, childish and charming, a man who loved being married, just not always to the same woman. Naomi Wood skilfully creates the conversations that might have played out between Ernest and his wives, making them feel totally authentic. You can feel his first wife Hadley struggling with her jealousy as Ernest becomes involved with her best friend, Pauline ‘Fife’ Pfeiffer, trying to be bohemian and mature (and French!) about the situation. Then chic, sophisticated, wealthy Fife, so confident that she’s different to Hadley, finds to her horror that she loses Ernest to the tough, independent writer Martha Gellhorn. And she in turn loses him to a fellow journalist named Mary Welsh.
Hemingway and contemporaries like F Scott Fitzgerald fictionalised their own lives while they were living them, so it feels totally natural to read this imagined account of Hemingway’s wives. Naomi Wood has given voices to the shadowy figures who played a vital role in helping Hemingway become the titanic figure of twentieth century literature that he was.
2014 sees the reissue of Radclyffe Hall’s controversial lesbian novel, The Well of Loneliness (Hesperus Classics, out now). Subject to a landmark obscenity trial when it was first published in 1928 and banned for twenty years, the Sunday Express said of Hall’s book, “I would rather give a healthy boy or a healthy girl a phial of prussic acid than this novel”, which naturally made everyone want to read it. The heroine, Stephen Gordon – so named because her parents longed for a boy – isn’t a particularly sympathetic character. She’s abrasive and self-absorbed, but when you consider the stifling society she was born into and her painful isolation as she discovers her nature as an ‘invert’ (a term used at the time to describe homosexuality), you can see why. Stephen’s wealth allows her a certain amount of freedom – she can indulge her love of masculine attire, travel and live independently – but ultimately because she is attracted to women, she is an outcast.
In the centenary year of the outbreak of World War 1, it seems pertinent to revisit this novel, as it is during her time driving ambulances on the Western Front that Stephen discovers other women like her and falls in love. WWI saw huge social changes in Britain and marked the end of the gilded Edwardian age. As well as the colossal losses that blighted the lives of so many, there were gains for women – the vote and a new freedom to work – that shaped Britain as we know it. The Well of Loneliness might not be a ‘fun’ book, but like The Ragged Trousered Philanthropists and The Female Eunuch, it’s a very necessary one. We have three copies of the new edition to give away so visit us at Pamflet to find out how to win one.
Zoe Pilger’s Eat My Heart Out (Serpent’s Tail, out now) is an astonishing debut that gives a frightening insight into the lives of a new lost generation who are facing a bankrupt future. It reads like a drunken late night illegal cab ride, recklessly careering through the London of your early twenties. Everyone’s a poet or a performance artist, there’s lots of bad drugs and nasty sex in squalid flats paid for by indulgent relations. Bleak and brilliant, Pilger ruthlessly flays the social mores of the liberal intelligentsia to the bone. Protagonist Ann-Marie feels like a Holden Caulfield for the twenty-first century and a natural successor to modern literature’s anti-heroes – nihilistic, narcissistic, gloriously deranged, bleak and bright by turns. This is an anti-love story, brutal and brilliant.
Helen Walsh is one of Pamflet’s favourite literary bad girls. She writes about complex women in difficult circumstances, giving a voice to characters who we might only ever get a brief glimpse of in contemporary literature otherwise: a single mother cursed with postnatal depression in Go to Sleep, a Sri Lankan-Irish girl coming of age to an acid house soundtrack in Once Upon a Time in England and Liverpudlian prostitutes in the notorious Brass. In her new book The Lemon Grove (Tinder Press, out now) forty-something Jenn is on a doomed family holiday in intoxicating surroundings and it’s Walsh’s most fearless, tense and tightly written work yet. After gulping this down, I was pretty sure that she’s the kind of lady I’d like to put the world to rights with over several glasses of red wine (Tinder Press).
Two debut short story collections to look out for this month are Molly Antapol’sThe UnAmericans (Fourth Estate, out now) and The Rental Heart and Other Fairytales (Salt Publishing, 15 March) by Kirsty Logan. For me the most satisfying short stories should take the bigger picture and shrink it into a perfect miniature or snapshot and both of these do just that. Logan’s occasionally surreal and gorgeous tales defy categorisation and Antapol’s stories of fathers and daughters and distant homelands offer many thought-provoking reading pleasures.
Our glossy book of the month is Fashion Africa (Jacaranda Books, out now) by designer and Director of the Africa Fashion Guide Jacqueline Shaw. An overview of where the continent’s industry is right now, it provides a dazzlingly illustrated portfolio of African textiles, footwear and clothing through practitioner profiles and interviews.
#SNEAKERSCLASH
28.02.2014 | Art , Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
Converse have been creating a worldwide stir, popping up across Europe, the Middle East and Africa with their latest project #SNEAKERSCLASH. Designed to disrupt and clash against the dull greys of the world, the series started in Amsterdam and last night made its way to London. The whole initative is brought to life through two different interactive activations – Wall of Clash and Photo Clash. Clash Wall brings together street artists with clashing styles and techniques at unexpected locations, asking them to create their most visceral work against lifeless walls and spaces. And so that’s what happened at The Old Vinyl Factory, the former record-pressing plant of EMI in Hayes, London. The abandoned 107-year-old building has been brought back to life through the colourful work of artists Remi Rough and System from the Agents of Change collective. They painted the exterior in designs inspired by Converse’s newest collection, the new All Star Chuck ‘70 and the mural itself is set to be London’s biggest to date.
If I Could Change Your Mind
27.02.2014 | Music | BY: Mariella Agapiou
Playing with the girl group ideology, Haim, who have toyed with synchronized dance moves in their previous videos, give us a complete choreographed routine in their latest visual offering, If I Could Change Your Mind. Taken from their debut album, Days Are Gone, the video is directed by Warren Fu (who directed the last two Daft Punk videos). It has a retro-cool feel about it, somthing these three sisters are becoming known for, as well as their musical talent of course. Watch the video below.
Image by Bella Lieberberg
Pavane
26.02.2014 | Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
During London Fashion Week Twin headed to the Designer Showrooms at Somerset House to meet the designers behind a young London-based label Pavane. Having worked for a range of big names in design, Hussein Chalayan, Yohji Yamamoto, Marc Jacobs, Erdem and Richard Nicoll to name a few, the designers, Georgina Edmonds and Fiona Ransom, decided to go it alone. Showing their third collection for AW14, they bring together their different disciplines (cutting and textiles) to create pieces that are both delicate yet strong, and structured, but with a certain fluidity in their designs. When asked about their process, they talked about their differences: “as we are both women with different aesthetics and body shapes, what we each want from a garment is different – this sets up an interesting tension with our design process – a questioning dialogue about the desirability and even validity of each piece.” It is this dialogue between the two designers that helps them create highly considered collections.
The Pavane woman, come autumn/winter 2014, will be wearing winter florals and kimono inspired silhouettes in a colour palette of blush oranges, deep reds, pale pinks and shades of charcoal. Key pieces from the collection: “the coat dress and jacket made from the bespoke woolen roses jacquard – strong and feminine at the same time.”
Photography: Rupert Tapper
Twin Picks: Mascara
25.02.2014 | Beauty | BY: Mariella Agapiou
It’s one of those can’t-leave-the-house-without-it-on products, one that has the power to make you look more awake at 8am on a miserable Monday morning. That’s a great power indeed. Mascara just so happened to be big news at the Prada AW14 show in Milan. Pat McGrath created a clumpy lash look for Miuccia Prada’s vision which saw models walk the catwalk with large defined eyes that complimented their fresh nude faces. This look is also a SS14 favourite, so here Twin picks some of the best mascaras on the market today.
EYEKO Fat Brush Mascara, £15, spacenk.com & Bobbi Brown Intensifying Long Wear Mascara, £19, houseoffraser.com
Clarins Be Long Mascara, £21, clarins.co.uk & Butter London WINK Mascara Union Jack Black, £15, butterlondon.co.uk
Twin x Birds Eye View Competition
24.02.2014 | Culture | BY: admin
Birds Eye View, the UK’s only public celebration of international women film makers, are screening a rather special documentary to coincide with International Women’s Day.
Tracing the birth, evolution and legacy of Wonder Woman, Kirsty Guevara-Flanagan’s super-doc spotlights the fictional and real-life superheroines fighting for positive role models for girls. A hit at SXSW, the film includes original Wonder Woman Lynda Carter, activist Gloria Stienem, Buffy writer Jane Espenson, Riot Grrrl Kathleen Hann and more. A vital counterpoint to the male-dominated superhero genre – and a ‘joyful celebration of women who kick ass!’
Twin have two tickets to give away to the BFI Southbank screening of Wonder Women! The Untold Story of American Superheroines on Saturday 8th March at 6.30pm. To be in with a chance to win, follow @twinmagazine and @BirdsEyeViewFF on Instagram then email info@twinfactory.co.uk to let us know you’ve done so, remember to leave your full name so we can contact the winners. Competition ends Friday 7th March.
Twin Backstage: Jonathan Saunders
21.02.2014 | Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
For our last look back at the shows at London Fashion Week, Twin focuses on the details backstage at the Jonathan Saunders AW14 catwalk presentation. Here we take a look at photographer Ash Reynolds‘ interpretation of what happened.
Photography: Ash Reynolds
Twin Backstage: Richard Nicoll
20.02.2014 | Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
For the second in our backstage series, Twin sent photographer Ash Reynolds to capture the atmosphere behind the scenes of the Richard Nicoll AW14 show at London Fashion Week. Here we can take a closer look at the models, styling, beauty and designs that made the show what it was.
Photography: Ash Reynolds
Twin Backstage: Erdem
19.02.2014 | Blog , Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
With London Fashion Week officially over, Twin reflects on some of the fabulous shows. The first in our series takes a closer look at the goings-on backstage at Erdem’s Autumn/Winter 2014 show.
Photography: Ash Reynolds
PopUp Painting
18.02.2014 | Art | BY: Lola Bukvic
Have you been yearning to release that inner artist? Or are you scared to death at the thought of simply picking up a paintbrush? PopUp Painting is the answer to all of the above. Established in January 2013, the latest art mania introduces a practice, that many of us consider nothing short of a nightmare, into a social environment: “We want to make painting accessible to everyone, and highlight the fact that it is fun. Most of our guests haven’t painted since their school days and just want to try something different (normally with a drink in their hand).” Popping up across venues such as Le Pain Quoitidien, PopUp Painting invites us to overcome our fear of the canvas, whilst mingling with likeminded guests at some of London’s most social and beloved hangout spots.
Originating in the States, PopUp Painting hit a home run and within months dispersed internationally, from Canada to Australia, and over to the UK where Phylissia Shelton, the UK’s Founder and Director, was quick to take note of the creative craze. Shelton set the ball rolling and joined forces with a select number of artists and supporting staff to launch in the UK’s capital at the Soho Hotel last April. It spread like wild fire and the past year has seen the company expand and ‘pop up’ across Central London and its surrounding boroughs. From Kensington to Richmond, the trend has attracted both students and parents alike to rekindle their love for painting across some of London’s favourite pubs, cafes and bars.
Last week Twin Magazine was lucky enough to head down to East Dulwich’s The Plough for the Roy Lichtenstein class to see what all the fuss was about. Taking on the American pop artist’s classic Oh Jeff, guests were welcomed to The Plough, a.k.a ‘Dulwich’s Friendliest Pub’, where a section had been cornered off especially for the painting class. At the flick of a switch, 60’s music filled the room and merged with the joyous sounds of guests socialising amongst one another. Priced at £25 per ticket, guests were provided with a fresh white canvas, a palette of acrylics, brushes and an upbeat talented art tutor who guided them through the course of the night. With an example to follow and a white canvas to fill, guests were slowly navigated through sketching the basic outlines of the pop art ‘fantasy drama’ piece. Newcomers showed no hesitancy in applying the brush to the canvas and as a result Oh Jeffs sprung up in minutes, followed by a wave of determination and elation. With not a single restriction in sight, participants bid farewell to their painting woes and transformed blank canvases into mini masterpieces. As the night drew to a close, the painters reviewed and praised the clashing and charming interpretations that had resulted from the experimentation of colours and the choice of text in the speech balloon.
With a selection of fantastic nights to boot, from Banksy to Picasso, PopUp Painting is set to be the next best thing to sweep the nation.
Sorelli Presents: The Evil Rock N Roll Hollywood Cat
17.02.2014 | Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
Juliana Sorelli, the young french director who we interviewed when she released her film Pretty Pretty, is launching a store in Hollywood. Technically the store has no name, only a logo, but lets just call it The Evil Rock N Roll Hollywood Cat. Located in a 1920’s blue house just off of Hollywood boulevard, it gives the impression of someone’s living room from that decade, one that has been taken over by a group of punks and jailbirds – an aesthetic also found in her film work. As well as Julianna’s own designs, which consist of custom made denim and leather jackets, embroidered sweatshirts and a basics range, the store will feature pieces by JFO, a new brand by Matthew Damhave who originally started the label Imitation of Christ, a new designer named James Flemons and his brand PHLEMONS and custom made jewellery from her friends. You can also expect to find photographic prints by Brad Elterman, books, zines and other smaller items such as pins, patches and records. In the future Juliana hopes to host events such as screenings, talks, shows and she even has plans of turning another room into a small secret gallery, so keep an eye out.
To celebrate the launch of her unique boutique, the Los Angeles based director has created a film titled Hollywood Lucifer. Watch it below…
The Evil Rock N Roll Hollywood Cat – 1608 N Las Palmas Ave. Hollywood, CA
Nimmo And The Gauntletts – Jaded
14.02.2014 | Music | BY: Mariella Agapiou
Not heard of Nimmo And The Gauntletts? Well it’s time you did. Last year they released their debut Change, and after being played on the likes of Radio 1, East Village Radio and 6 Music, top model Agyness Deyn requested to shoot the video. “I heard the song and then it was constantly on repeat in my head,” said Agyness. “I had this story playing over and over of change. Girl to woman. Youth to old age. Purity to knowledge. I asked the band if they needed a video made. They said yes so I made it. What a band!” The musical duo followed up with Others, a nod in the electronic direction and with that headlined at the Electrowerks in November – their live performance being compared to The XX.
Now Sarah Nimmo and Reva Gauntlett are back, with a new track and video called Jaded. Out on March 24th, the song has a beat that makes you want to dance and the video, directed by Paris Zarcilla and written by Mike Glover, follows two young boys as they cause some mischief around town. Watch the new video below.
KENZO AUTOMOBILE WALTZ SS14 FILM
13.02.2014 | Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
For Spring/Summer 2014 Kenzo looked to America’s West Coast and in particular California in the 1960’s. To convey these themes, the brand collaborated with director Hala Matar and actors, Anton Yelchin and Lydia Hearst to create a short-film titled, Automobile Waltz, where we see the protagonists riding around in vintage cars, crashing into orchestras and carrying out stunted conversations, all in a set reminiscent with old Hollywood movies.
The connection between the cars and the collection is that they “both share the timelessness and classic feel,” states Matar. For Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the wave prints recall an age of visiting the beach during the heyday of 60’s surfers.
Astralis at Louis Vuitton
Astralis is the 23rd exhibition to be held at Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton in Paris. The exhibit claims to “take visitors on a journey into this strange reality by exploring unfathomable and inaccessible worlds.” Taking it’s name from ‘Astral’, another term for ‘invisible,’ this contemporary exhibition explores the relationship between art and the many forms of the invisible: from astrophysics to cognitive science and alternative knowledge, not to mention unexplained phenomena linked to a variety of visionary or metaphysical dimensions.
Including work from a dozen international artists, l’Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton is also organising a series of unique events to run alongside Astralis. Conversations and performances, youth workshops and weekend family activities are all ways to get involved with the exhibit. Running from now until May 11th, there’s more than enough time to get lost in space.
To find out more and check for activity dates go to louisvuitton-espaceculturel.com
Kendra Morris Q&A
11.02.2014 | Music | BY: Mariella Agapiou
Kendra Morris has a big voice and a soulful heart. In 2011 she received the Holly Prize by ASCAP and the Songwriters Hall of Fame, which recognises new singer/songwriters whose talents honor the legacy of Buddy Holly. Morris releases her album BANSHEE this week, so Twin caught up with the singer to find out a little more about this creative talent.
In your childhood you were constantly surrounded my music as both your parents were in bands. What was your first musical memory?
One of my first musical memories was the late nights when my parents would have friends over and they would have jam sessions or rehearsals with their bands. I would always creep out of my bedroom and secretly listen to them play.
Who did you grow up listening to?
I grew up listening to this oldies station 92.5 that played a lot of different bands from the 50’s and 60’s. I also had a cassette tape called Crusing Classics that I listened to over and over again. On it, it had Buddy Holly, The Shirelles and The Beach Boys, and I would listen to it and dance and sing in front of the mirror.
When was the first time you remember thinking that you wanted to make music?
I can’t remember. I always loved performing and being in front of people. If I couldn’t perform in front of a live audience then it was in front of my toys. I remember Whoopi Goldberg hosting the Oscars one year and when she talked to the TV and said “this could be you kid, ” I was like… Yeah, that’s me!
What was the first song you ever wrote? What was it about?
First song I ever wrote, I think, was when I was around 15 or 16… I can’t remember the title but it was something about believing in love, even though I didn’t know it yet.
When did you decide to leave St Petersburg, Florida and move to New York?
I always dreamt of moving to NYC but was so scared… It took the catalyst of having a strong headed band to link up with and do it. Sometimes you just need a little push.
What’s the weirdest thing that ever inspired you to write a song?
I don’t think anything is really weird to inspire you. You can pull inspiration from anything.
Your album BANSHEE was just released on iTunes. What are your favourite tracks?
That’s tough. It’s like picking a favorite child. I am attached to them all in different ways… I think I love Just One More because it was so difficult to get out and then I love BANSHEE for the story and then If You Didnt Go, I love the melody in the chorus. I could go on and on, each track has a special place.
What tracks have you been listening to recently?
I’m writing again so I’m listening to a lot of the new stuff we are working on.
What do you have planned for 2014? Are you playing in London soon?
I’m in the middle of a European tour in support of BANSHEE right now. We play in London on the 26th and 27th of February and then back home to continue writing and finding inspiration for the new album… I bet I find some inspiration on this tour too!
Bella Freud: Pre-Spring 2014 Collection
10.02.2014 | Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
Bella Freud, the queen of punk knitwear launched her eponymous label in the 90s, and has held a cult status among the cool crowd ever since. The pre-spring line, Close To My Heart is no different, featuring girl crush Adwoa Aboah. For this collection Bella draws from her love of film noir, 70s reggae album covers, graffiti and images of her mother as a 1950’s teenager.
The new word jumpers of the season include: Hey, Psychoanalysis and Power, with the range also consisting of the Lion Star Tee, the instant hit Lion Stripe Jumper and the Distressed Dog Tee (a la the Bella Freud logo). These tees and fine wool sweaters come in a palette of Gitane Blue, Dirty Pink, Grasshopper Green, Grey Marl and of course the classic BF Black and White.
‘The reason for making anything, from a garment to a film, is because it excites me and because I like it’ – Bella Freud.
Pamflet x Twin: February Releases
07.02.2014 | Literature | BY: admin
We can never get enough of angry young women at Pamflet, so happily we have two righteous books to recommend this month. They also happen to be about the politics behind our two major obsessions (music and clothes) too.
Words Will Break Cement: The Passion of Pussy Riot (Granta Books) by Moscow-based journalist Masha Gessen (brought forward from its March publication date because of Nadya Tolokonnikova and Maria Alyokhina ‘early’ release) is the story of Russia’s most famous ex-political prisoners. In the past couple of years their iconic balaclava-ed images have inspired rebel-artists across the world, adorned greeting cards and been referenced by the masked cast in the poster for last year’s all-women Julius Caesar at the Donmar.
Gessen investigates the young women behind the cultural phenomenon, spending time with Nadya’s husband and father and corresponding with them incarcerated women in their respective prisons. If you saw the Punk Prayer film and got the Let’s Start a Pussy Riot art-book (which featured contributions from Meadham Kirchhoff and Yoko Ono amongst many others), then you really need to read this in-depth look at what it means be young, fearless and angry in the new Russia.
Stitched Up: The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion (Pluto Press) by writer and activist Tansy E. Hoskins and wonderfully illustrated by Jade Pilgrom will be launched on London Fashion Week Eve (next Thursday 13 February). Hoskins manages to convincingly bring the two Karls (Marx and Lagerfeld) into this passionate and radical critique of the fashion industry. Writing from the perspective of an outsider who believes it ‘truly is glorious and enthralling as well as exasperating and terrible,’ her stance will be familiar to anyone who’s been tempted by the quick fix rush of a high street bargain only to sink into shameful remorse immediately afterwards. In Stitched Up Hoskins might be dazzled by fashion, but that doesn’t stop her from asking critical questions around the provenance and manufacture of clothing and the exploitation of fashion workers from the factory floor to the catwalk. Luckily she has plenty of answers to suggest too, and in this theoretical, but enjoyably journalistic text, she confidently picks up the campaigning baton from her fash-critic foremothers such as Elizabeth Wilson and looks optimistically towards the future.
ALSO OUT THIS MONTH: Costume historian Amber Jane Butchart’s Fashion Miscellany is a darling collection of short essays and asides on style, tailoring and taste. On and off the page Amber lives her craft and here she always wears her expert knowledge lightly, packing this neat volume full of treasures. Reading it is like digging through a junk shop jewellery box: lots of fun.