The legendary Diana Vreeland

16.10.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Yesterday Rizzoli Publishing released a book about the legendary editor in chief, Diana Vreeland.

Diana Vreeland Memos: The Vogue Years gives us a look behind the scenes when Vreeland became editor in chief of Vogue in 1963, where she initiated a transformation and shaping the magazine into the dominant U.S. fashion publication.

Vreeland rarely held meetings and communicated with her staff and photographers through memos dictated from her office or Park Avenue apartment. This extraordinary compilation of more than 250 pieces of Vreeland’s personal correspondence—most published here for the first time—includes letters to Cecil Beaton, Horst P. Horst, Norman Parkinson, Veruschka, and Cristobal Balenciaga and memos that show the direction of some of Vogue’s most legendary stories.

Each chapter is introduced by commentary from Vogue editors who worked with her, giving readers a truly inside look at how Diana Vreeland directed the course of the magazine and fashion world.

Buy your own copy from rizzoliusa.com

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QUENTIN JONES FOR LOUIS VUITTON

15.10.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Quentin Jones is a London-based illustrator, a Cambridge philosophy graduate and one of fashion’s brightest young filmmakers, specializing in a cartoonish style of surreal photo-montaged animation.

In connection to Fashion Week earlier this month, Louis Vuitton released a new accessories film, directed by Quentin. Through her signature aesthetic, illustrative bold lines and pop colours brings the rings, sunglasses and belts to life. The film is styled by Fashion Editor Agata Belcen.

quentinjones.info

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walter hugo at paul smith store

14.10.2013 | Art , Blog | BY:

Paul Smith is about to display a new series of photographic work by London-based artist Walter Hugo at the Albemarle Street shop. The exhibition, titled We Are An Island opens to the public on October 16 to coincide with the Frieze Art Fair London.

The show will bring together two major series of works that have never before been shown in their entirety. The exhibition space will host Reflecting the Bright Lights, a collection of portraits of inspirational and creative peers from the worlds of performance, art and fashion captured in silver nitrate on glass sheets. With luminaries like Eddie Redmayne, Alice Dellal, Carson McColl, Polly Stenham, Maia Norman and Jaime Winston captured by Hugo’s 1870’s lens, Reflecting the Bright Lights creates a portrait of today’s cultural pioneers.

The second series, The Nature of Interdependence, is Hugo’s 10-piece series of giant seascapes depicting the shores of Britain and will be on view upstairs at Albemarle Street.

Walter Hugo is a multi-disciplinary artist, working within the mediums of sculpture, 19th century photographic process, film and performance. He frequently teams entrancing expressions of beauty with the application of complex methodology or scientific research and process.

paulsmith.co.uk

walterhugo.co.uk

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Phoebe Colling-James

11.10.2013 | Art , Blog | BY:

From today one can see the young British Goldsmiths graduate Phoebe Colling-James’s first solo exhibition at the Ritter/Zamet gallery in London.

The show’s title is inspired by the wise and endlessly rich oeuvre of seminal American writer James Baldwin. It thus sets the tone and mood for Collings-James’ exhibition and her continuous concern with racial and gender-based inadequacies played out against the austere, formal language of minimalism. Violence, sex and desire are subliminal in these artworks; they are at once beguiling and unsettling, seemingly fragile yet laden with menace.

The exhibition will be on display at Ritter/Zamet gallery, 80a Ashfield Street London E1 2BJ, from October 11 – November 23.

www.phoebecollingsjames.com

www.ritterzamet.com

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BLAKE LDN

10.10.2013 | Fashion | BY:

Meet Alice Ashby, the designer behind BLAKE LDN. With an impressive resume and thorough understanding of the British craft, Alice founded the luxurious knitwear brand just last year and this week annouced that the designs will be stocked in the French concept store Colette. This is one brand to keep on your radar.

Twin caught up with the designer to find out more…

Having worked as Assistant Knitwear Designer for Rag & Bone, co-founded The North Circular and now BLAKE LDN, when did your love for knitwear begin?

I was taught to knit by my Grandmother one Christmas when I was around 10 years old, so that was when I held my first knitting needles. I was always doing something creative, be it sewing, stitching, anything to do with texture when I was growing up. Then it was not until I was at Central St Martins when I specialised in knitwear that I realised this was what I wanted to do and there was actually a career in it.

How would you describe the BLAKE LDN aesthetic?

It is British luxury design, it is wearable and all about texture, be it the yarn, stitch or pattern. The Blake girl is very effortless in her style and can team a piece with jeans or dress it up.

When it comes to knitwear, quality is key. How do you go about choosing the Merino wool, Angora and Loro Piana cashmere for your collections?

I travel to Pitti Filati in Florence twice a year. It is the tradeshow for yarn suppliers. It is great, as I can catch up with our current suppliers and see their new yarns, textures and colours as well as sourcing new suppliers and fibres from around the world. I use a lot of British lambswool and cashmere as well as Italian yarns for angoras and more fancy yarns like boucle and textured yarn.

What inspired the AW13 collection?

AW13 was inspired by vintage ski images, adapting and creating a modern day take on this traditional chunky knit. Looking closely at the yoke, panelling and racing stripes we modernised this by adding angora and clashing hues of cashmere.

What knitwear staples do you constantly return to?

Our Adelaide is one of our signature pieces, we adapt it each season to cotton for SS and cashmere or wool for AW. It is the perfect slouchy sweater and so comfortable. Other than that, you have got to have a great cashmere sweater – when you find the right one it should last forever. Our Aubrey double ply Loro Piana hits the spot. For beanies – it has to be our cashmere Nova beanies. Perfect simple cashmere beanies, the bonus is that they are unisex too.

Twin loves the Redfern Chunky Sweater and Foskett Beanie from the AW13 collection. Which pieces are your favourite?

The Aubrey is one my favourites, I love the colourway of neon, gold, charcoal framed by rich navy. The Foskett sweater is another favourite, an oversized sky blue angora sweater. Then finally it’s the chunky Redfern in cobalt. I love bright blue and in a chunky knit its just perfect.

You are now stocked at Colette. Where else would you like to see the brand sold?

I would love Opening Ceremony, Matches and obviously Net-a-Porter, to name a few. All stores we are working towards… so watch this space.

www.blake-ldn.com

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Kate Moss x topshop

09.10.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Kate Moss will launch a new collection for Topshop in April next year.

Her partnership with Topshop first began in May 2007 and the first collection was a huge success. The collaboration ended in 2010 but now she is already working on the new range, which will be sold in 40 countries world wide and on Topshop.com.

It will comprise 40 pieces, spanning womenswear, accessories and footwear – and is expected to be inspired by Moss’s personal wardrobe.

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Pussy Riot – A Punk Prayer

08.10.2013 | Blog , Culture | BY:

Next week on Monday, October 14, Fronline Club London is screening Pussy Riot – A punk Prayer, followed by a Q&A with co-directors Mike Lerner and Maxim Pozdorovkin.

Last year in February the Russian feminist punk group Pussy Riot performed a 40 second ‘punk prayer’ on the altar of Moscow’s most esteemed cathedral. Through this act they openly challenged Putin and the Russian Orthodox Church, setting in motion one of the greatest show trials of recent times.

In Pussy Riot: A Punk Prayer, filmmakers Mike Lerner and Maxim Pozdorovkin closely follow the trial, which sees three members stand accused of “hooliganism motivated by religious hatred”. Through incredible access to the legal system, they show the courtroom where Nadia, Masha and Katia sit incarcerated in a small booth, articulately defending their actions.

Book your tickets now at frontlineclub.bookinglive.com

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Frieze London – a must see event

07.10.2013 | Art , Blog | BY:

Next week it’s time for the annual international art fair, Frieze London. The contemporary art fair takes place every October in London’s Regent’s Park.

In addition to being able to see and buy art by over 1,000 of the world’s leading artists, visitors can experience Frieze Projects, the fair’s unique and critically acclaimed programme of artist commissions and Frieze Talks, a prestigious programme of debates, panel discussions and keynote lectures.

Don’t miss out, buy your tickets now at friezelondon.com

October 17 – 20 2013 Regent’s Park

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swanz Fly

04.10.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

When you think of streetwear, you tend to imagine logo tees, caps and a boy wearing them. Most streetwear brands are aimed at men, and if they do have a girls range, it tends to differ completely to what they design for boys. A woman trying to change this is London based Zahra Swanzy. Zahra created her label Swanz Fly in 2008, born out of her frustration for the lack of attention to women’s streetwear, “There wasn’t any streetwear or street-inspired looks for women at all. I used to wear men’s clothes and I always used to like my boyfriend’s baggy clothes, but mainly I feel like women’s clothes tend to be very tight most of the time. For daywear and casual wear, it’s just not really what you want.” Designing her clothes with a woman’s figure in mind, Swanzy’s latest collection is called Heavy. “Heavy is old London slang for cool. It’s really a feeling I felt when I was a rowdy teenager, but it’s also about strength and weightiness. I just felt like women are not often seen as strong figures and we are as strong, if not stronger than men; we have to give birth and shit. At the moment, I’m really into women empowerment especially with my youth work, so that’s how it’s come out in my clothes. Original streetwear was all about expression and oppression, so that’s what Heavy is.” Check out the full lookbook here LOOKBOOK.com, and read more about Zahra’s work with young girls here londonpositive.org.uk

Text by Beccy Hill

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Twin Picks: Leather

03.10.2013 | Fashion | BY:

Leather is becoming a more favoured fabric than before, finding itself in many different hues and forms – the leather tee is now a wardrobe staple of sorts. Last season, the skinny leather trouser was a key player, but for your 2013 update go slouchy and loose. The conventional leather jacket is an autumn winter favourite of course, but take this sport luxe version as this season’s interpretation. So when shopping for your new season wardrobe, take inspiration from Twin’s top picks of AW13’s material of choice.

Zadig & Voltaire Leather Sydney Overalls in Black, £587, shopbop.com & Gestuz Women’s Alina Leather Top In Baroque Rose, £80, coggles.com

Derek Lam Leather skirt, £ 765.00, thecorner.com & Just Female Quilted Leather Bomber Jacket, £270, asos.com

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london edition hotel

02.10.2013 | Blog | BY:

George Yabu and Glenn Pushelberg are the design duo behind the renowned studio, Yabu Pushelberg. With bases in both New York and Toronto, their interiors portfolio includes the likes of Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., Bergdorf Goodman, Barney’s, the Four Seasons group and the St. Regis Hotel. Their latest project has seen them collaborate with hotelier Ian Schrager, for the EDITION series of hotels, as a part of the Mariott Group.

The beautiful London EDITION Hotel, which played host to the fashion glitterati over London Fashion Week has already created a buzz and has proved to be the place to stay in London. Located at 10 Berner Street, the hotel just opened this month and we cannot wait to see what the next-in-the-series Miami branch has to offer.

yabupushelberg.com

edition-hotels.marriott.com

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Project Bush

01.10.2013 | Culture | BY:

Mother London wants to see your bush. But in the name of feminism of course. Project Bush is an initiative that asks woman from all walks of life to have theirs photographed on Thursday October 3 anonymously, to stand up to the pressures of modern society.

In working with a number of feminist groups, Mother London’s campaign sets out to discuss feminism in 2013 – how does it manifest today, what are the challenges it faces and what does it mean to be a feminist? What they realise already is that it’s all about choice. However, when it comes to waxing culture, some young women feel the choice is out of their hands. And so by asking women to bare all, they hope to challenge the stereotype and help people see the choice is, in fact, all theirs.

All bushes will be displayed in a public exhibition at Mother London and all involved will be invited with their friends to a public viewing. So if you would like to have your bush anonimously photographed by top photographer Alisa Connan, 15 Minute slots can be booked all day and in the evening of the 3rd by emailing bush@motherlondon.com.

#projectbush

motherlondon.com  10 Redchurch Street, E1 7DD

 

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The show everyone’s talking about

30.09.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last week Rick Owens created a stir during Paris Fashion Week, a well needed one and a very appreciated one, as he sent out “warriors” on the catwalk for his spring summer 2014 show. A group of female hip-hop dancers invaded the stage and preformed a dance whiled they showed the collection, an asymmetric collection with lots of leather in a fairly strict colour palette of black to grey to white.

Owens dancers fit the general dimensions of real women, and the show got reviews of being revolutionary and something different to the otherwise rather banal and commercial shows with usual silent, bored-looking models.

Style blogger Susie Bubble was among many to respond positively, suggesting Owens had made “the most powerful and provocative statement this season” while Harper’s Bazaar UK described it as the “show everyone’s talking about”.

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Alexandra Mann

27.09.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Alexandra Mann started in the fashion industry as a costume designer, working with the likes of Naomie Harris, Zoe Wanamaker, Derek Jacobi and Noel Fielding.

After having caught the eye of the powers that be at Liberty in 2011 with her brightly coloured and vivid cosmetic cases, Mann has gone from strength to strength. Designing her cool and covetable accessories from her Hackney based studio, fabrics are sourced everywhere from car boot sales to waxed cloth dealers. Each washbag is completely unique and can even be personalised with names and initials through the Alexandra Mann website, we love the Skull Monogram bag.

Alexandra Mann accessories are available from alexandramann.com as well as in store and online at liberty.co.uk

 

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Hello My Name is Paul Smith

26.09.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Yesterday the advanced ticket sale for the forthcoming exhibition Hello My Name is Paul Smith opened.

The exhibition will take visitors on a journey through Paul Smith’s world. The exhibition will showcase and celebrate the brand through collections selected by Paul. The different stages of design and production will be explored, offering a rich insight into his design process and highlighting how the principles of traditional craftsmanship of tailoring and techniques are retained but given a contemporary edge.

The exhibition draws on Paul Smith’s personal archive, from the company’s beginnings in Nottingham to its international prominence today.

The exhibition will be on display at the Design Museum in London from November 15 2013 – March 9 2014 and tickets can be booked at ticketweb.co.uk

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The Rise of Fashion Film

25.09.2013 | Blog , Culture | BY:

Last week, during London Fashion Week, Twin went to see the private view of Dressing the Screen: The Rise of Fashion Film at Somerset House.

It was a screening exploring the role of female film makers in contemporary fashion film. Ground-breaking, subversive and sometimes playful female filmmakers are challenging stereotypes, shooting the female form in ways that are at odds with traditional representations of femininity and glamour and are questioning the relationship between garment and wearer.

It was a selection of 9 short fashion films, from an exhibition that will be on display in Singapore supported by ICAS and LASALLE, with over 20 films exploring the origins, history and pioneering role UK filmmakers and designers have played in the development of fashion film. An official fringe event of Digital Fashion Week Singapore 2013 will open to the public on September 28 and run for four weeks in the lead up to Digital Fashion Week Singapore. Curated by filmmaker Kathryn Ferguson and designed by System Sovereign X Fuur.

Kathryn Ferguson said: “Fashion film has become one of the main tools for showcasing new work and giving immediate access to fashion in an exciting and dramatic way. Digital Fashion Week Singapore is a truly pioneering event that demonstrates the hunger for innovation in the fashion industry in Singapore so it feels like an appropriate place to exhibit this work.”

digitalfashioweek.com

Footage from the screening at Somerset house will be available at showstudio.com

 

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Fashion east spring summer 2014

24.09.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Fashion East is a pioneering non-profit initiative established by Lulu Kennedy and the Old Truman Brewery in 2000. The scheme champions emerging designers, showcasing them on the catwalk at London Fashion Week. Designers are selected by Fashion East’s panel of industry experts who offer guidance and mentoring support. As part of the scheme designers receive a bursary, a fully produced runway show and are taken to Paris to hold sales appointments with international stores. Fashion East has has kick started the careers of many of the UK’s most prolific design talent including Gareth Pugh, Jonathan Saunders, House of Holland, Louise Gray, Marios Schwab, Meadham Kirchhoff, Richard Nicoll, Roksanda Ilincic and Simone Rocha.

For the spring/summer 2014 the Fashion East show featured Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow and Ryan Lo.

Twin’s Trinity Eliis went backstage before the show and got some photos of Ryan Lo’s and Ashley William’s creations.

fashioneast.co.uk

 

 

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Fratelli Rossetti’s spring summer 2014

23.09.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Twin has had an exclusive insight into the Fratelli Rossetti SS14 collection. As inspired by Asian geometric designs, the luxe Italian footwear brand has put a spin on their classic designs combining with Japanese manga.

SS14 sees just one Derby shoe style, (a style that is apart of the Rossetti DNA) but in 21 colour ways. The white lug-sole can be seen throughout, being a key characteristic to the design and the range of vibrant colours represent the fun, surreal atmosphere of the celebrated Japanese comic strips.

www.fratellirossetti.com

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The Diversity Coalition

20.09.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

With fashion weeks taking place in all major capitals at the moment, it’s easy to get caught up in the beauty of the clothes and accessories being shown whilst failing to notice the girls modelling them. Iman and Naomi Campbell have teamed up with former model agent Bethann Hardison to campaign against the current ‘white out’ we are witnessing on our catwalks, and tackle the lack of racial diversity in the fashion industry.

The trio, who have named themselves The Diversity Coalition, have written to the fashion councils of New York, Paris, London and Milan, highlighting the fashion houses who consistently fail to use models of colour in their shows. “People have said we are shaming the designers,” Iman says in an interview with The Evening Standard, “But that’s not what we’re doing. Nobody is calling anybody racist; the action is racist,” she explains. “The absence of models of colour sends a message to our young girls that they are not good enough, they are not beautiful enough,” she says. “Photography and the runways are such powerful tools, and say such a lot about our society. It is so much bigger than the catwalk.” To read their letter and the compiled list of designers, visit BalanceDiversity.com

Text by Beccy Hill

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Meadham Kirchhoff Spring Summer 2014

19.09.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

On Tuesday the super duo Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff behind the brand Meadham Kirchhoff’showed a theatrical experience through their Spring Summer 2014 collection.

It was an extraordinary collection with materials such as silk, lace and satin in white, black, red and gold.
A beautiful fairytale vibe mixed with a slightly darker vampire touch appeared when the models walked down the catwalk with bright orange hair, reminding one of a modern Pippi Longstocking, whilst ghostly sounds pumped out the speakers.

We saw baby doll dresses, punkish takes on the classic Chanel suit and hand embroided slipdresses.

Twin’s Trinity Ellis went backstage to snap some photos.

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