The Skin I’m In

10.12.2012 | Blog | BY:

The best thing you can wear is your skin. A phrase coined almost by accident by Italian bag designer Barbara Boner: “It just popped into my head without me even thinking about it,” Barbara says. “I’m now 37 and at a stage in my life where I am completely comfortable in the skin I’m in – What I would love is if all women had the self-believe and self-assurance to believe in this too. I like to think that I can communicate with my customer through my brand motto.”

In March 2009, Barbara launched her first collection; a series of animal skin fringed bags aimed at the nomadic woman and inspired by the excitement of adventure and travel from both her own experiences and those belonging to her gypsy grandmother: “She was a traveller with the circus in which her act involved driving a motorcycle around a ring of fire.”

As Boner continues to elaborate on her family’s curiously unusual story, I am intrigued to know more about hers…

You’re originally from Italy — when and why did you decide to make the move to London?
I first moved to London with my parents when I was four years old but we only stayed for a couple of years. Being in London is actually one of my earliest memories. I remember that I loved the parks, in particular I loved the squirrels – we don’t have them in Italy!

Four years ago I was living in Ibiza where I met my husband – he’s from London so that’s why I decided to move here permanently.

You are professionally trained in psychology — what effect has this had on your design work?
I try to see the woman wearing my bags through both women’s eyes and men’s. I think I have quite a strong masculine vision of things as well as a feminine one.

I also studied Latin and Greek so that trained my mind to think with concepts. With my work there’s always a theory behind things – an imaginary world that supports my brand and designs. I enjoy creating this world each season just as much as creating the bags.

Each of your collections are centred around an imagined inspirational woman — tell me about the latest for spring / summer 2013…
The woman I have conceived for this season is totally connected to her environment and nature, so much so that she can morph her human-self into an animal but also a plant – She is both flora and fauna.

Sum up your label’s aesthetic in 3 words…
Rebel, regal and romantic.

Thanks to a stylish celebrity following including the likes of Kate Moss, Poppy Delevingne and Olivia Palermo, you’ve become the ‘go to girl’ for fringed bags — why did you decide to focus on fringing as your signature?
My mother was a hippy and was always wearing fringing so when I created my first collection I decided to feature it in homage to her. Everyone loved that aspect of it so I thought ‘OK – you want fringing – I will give you fringing!’

Also for me it means freedom and movement; the Native Americans have used fringing for centuries to disguise themselves as animals and plants for hunting purposes. So yet again it’s bringing back this idea of nature, flora and fauna.

Who are some of your favourite women from both the past and present?
I’m a massive Kate (Moss) fan. I also love women of the 60s like Bridget Bardot and Anita Pallenberg. My most recent bag design is called the ‘Tura’ after Tura Santana who was an actress and one of the first famous exotic dancers – She was truly revolutionary for her time and has the most incredible life story.

All my bags are named after strong and powerful women: There’s ‘The Ginger’ (inspired by Sharon Stone’s character in Casino), ‘The Roxanne’ (thanks to The Police song) and ‘The Lilith’ (who according to a Rabbinic legend was the disregarded first wife of Adam.)

How do you juggle running a business and being a full time mother?
It’s been difficult because I moved to London, started my label, and got pregnant all around the same time. But I just went for it and made it work – it’s amazing what us women can do!

Where are you stocked?
My pieces are stocked in over 50 locations worldwide. In the UK I’m in Feathers, London and Coggles, York as well as my own online store.

barbaraboner.co.uk

 

 

 

The Row X Damien Hirst

07.12.2012 | Blog | BY:

This month sees the re-launch of The Row’s renowned Alligator rucksack, which despite its hefty price tag, sold out in stores worldwide last year. This time round Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, the twins behind the high-end luxury label, have teamed up with Damien Hirst who has treated the iconic bag to 12 separate spotty makeovers exclusively for Just One Eye; the first in a series of artistic partnerships fronted by the online fashion retailer.

justoneeye.com

 

Fo(u)rward Thinking

06.12.2012 | Art , Blog | BY:

This week, contemporary artists Alexandra Baumgartner, Beatriz Crespo, Florence Reidenbach and Su Ling Gyr are displaying their own personal confrontations with femininity at the GYNAECEUM exhibition in Berlin.

Curated by Tippi Ling, the installation is set in a 1920s apartment — a rather fitting location considering the exhibit’s questioning of female confinement to the domestic space.

Baumgartner’s collages will explore themes such as social constraints and the decay of the human body, whilst Crespo’s paintings examine the daily rituals in women’s lives. Reidenbach’s combination of folklore and fantasy delves into the creation of feminine identity, whereas Gyr analyses notions of beauty throughout history with her multimedia approach.

GYNAECEUM is not just a beautiful ode to the female artistic talent of today, but also an empowering retrospective on just how far we’ve come.

gynaeceum-exhibition.com

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Equality Now

05.12.2012 | Blog | BY:

Saved from the choppers this year, the almost closure of the Women’s Library forces a moment of reflection on women’s rights then and now.

From having a £4.2m lottery funded building gifted to them ten years ago, how is it that this year the Library opened in 1926 by Millicent Fawcett and home to Europe’s most extensive archive of women’s rights material could be so on its uppers?

The culture of chops have left many institutions that prioritise culture and thought over profit scrabbling for survival, but the change in fortune of the women’s library could also be viewed through the increasingly antediluvian attitudes to women’s rights creeping back to the fore. Whether it’s the ongoing debates on abortion, or the uniquely strange views of Republicans on the nature of rape, the threatened side lining of the Women’s Library seemed a further example of the changing tide in issues affecting women.

For now the Women’s Library has been guaranteed continued funding from LSE. While opening times seem forever sporadic, for those who can, check out their current exhibition The Long March to Equality for some apt reflection.

The Long March to Equality: Treasures of the Women’s Library is on until 22 February. For more info visit here.

Top Wonder

04.12.2012 | Blog | BY:

Ok, we know Twin’s been posting thick and fast about, hem hem, Christmas, but this we just had to share too.

Topshop’s gift to fashion lovers everywhere this year is Kate Bosworth channelling Michelle Pfeiffer in the Fabulous Baker Boys, resplendent in sparkle on top of a grand piano. Directed by her fiancé Michael Polish, Kate’s a very modern chanteuse and the very coolest kind of Christmas decoration. Enjoy…

Secret Stories

03.12.2012 | Blog | BY:

Next Spring will welcome a new addition to the high street. HM Hennes & Mauritz, the Swedish retail group behind world-wide fashion chains H&M, Cos, Monki and Cheap Monday has revealed some exciting yet slightly secretive details of their latest venture ‘& Other Stories,’ through a series of sneak-peek snap shots hinting at what will become the brands’ central concept as well as glimpses of pieces that will feature in the debut collection.

The product offering will be purely womenswear with the addition of accessories, shoes, lingerie and beauty to complete the package. Each collection, which is built around inspiring fashion stories, will be created by ateliers based in both Stockholm and Paris reflecting the quality of a designer capsule line but at affordable price points.

To a share a story subscribe at www.stories.com

Elin’s Stylein

30.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

In 2001 Elin Nyström set out on an adventure to New York; what was initially intended to be a three month visit turned into a two year residency, swapping
her projected life as a professional gymnast — a role she had been training for since a child — for a career in fashion.

After trying her hand in styling and enrolling on a design course at New York’s F.I.T (Fashion Institute of Technology), stylist Elin soon became Stylein; an
independent fashion label which, now 11 years on, has grown to become one of Sweden’s most coveted fashion exports with stockists in over fifteen countries
worldwide.

Elin herself is a typical Swede – tall, blonde, cool and unfairly beautiful. So it was no surprise when she recently announced that unlike her womenswear
collections, she is now officially off the market: “Of course I’m going to design my own wedding dress” she told us, “I’m not really one of those girls who has
been thinking about it since forever, but I do have an idea of how I would like it to look.”

In-between discussions of possible wedding venues, cakes, flowers, and that all important honeymoon, Twin threw in the occasional question to Elin about
Stylein’s past, present and future for good measure…

 

You initially launched Stylein whilst living in New York — what made you decide to return to Sweden and carry on with the label there?
I was brought up in the countryside in Sweden so I think the contrast between my hometown and the hectic (but fascinating and fun) world of New York became too much for me. In the spring of 2003 my father was celebrating his 50th birthday and my sister got married so it seemed like a good time to return home and settle with a slightly more grounded life. I left New York as abruptly as I moved there.

Swedish design is typically known for its minimalism — do you think Stylein fits it in with this aesthetic?
We definitely have elements of minimalism in our collections — some of the cuts and shapes are quite clean, but we also have pieces that are a bit softer, feminine, and luxurious, embracing the female silhouette.  Because of our large client base we always want to be able to cater to as many different markets as possible – it becomes a very inspiring thought for me whilst designing the collection to know that it’s going to be accessible to all kinds of different women across the world.

You worked as a stylist before setting up the label — do you think this influenced your vision when it comes to design?
Probably without knowing it – I really just design pieces that I would want to wear myself. It’s as simple as that. Sometimes I might feature colours that I’m not a big fan of myself (I’m quite boring with colour in my own wardrobe) because I know it will be right for my customer, but design-wise it has to be something that I can relate to.

Tell us a bit about the inspiration behind the SS’13 collection ‘Split Second’?
The new collection has quite a spiritual reference looking at the forces of nature, water, wind and light and how they can create a momentary impression that only exists there and then. Like in a kaleidoscope, elements co-exist side by side and are moved around in sequences of an organised chaos. The collection represents this through its clean straight lines and solid silhouettes with prints that were created through a colourful and playful experiment with light and shadows.

I’ve noticed that you are a bit of a social media whizz — is this an important additional feature to your business?
I love that I can now get closer to my customers through social media — I am an avid blogger, tweeter and Instagram user as I think it’s really important for my customers to see the more personal side of the label. Also it enables me to get some amazing firsthand feedback from them.

Any exciting plans for the near future?
It’s really fun designing for women but I would also love to do a menswear line at some point too. Also we are currently in the middle of confirming plans to open a new  flagship store in Stockholm that we’re all super excited about.

stylein.com


 

The Master

29.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

Copious amounts of Lace, velvet and chiffon adorned with beading, pleating, fringing and every other single ornate detailing imaginable have taken over the Embankment Galleries at Somerset House. Of course this can only mean one thing; Valentino, The master of Couture has arrived.

The extensive exhibition showcases over 130 hand-crafted dresses designed by the legendary Italian couturier, Valentino Garavani, throughout his illustrious 50-year career, as well as a comprehensive collection of previously unseen personal items including photographs, press clippings and letters from close friends, clients and peers including Donatella Versace, Anna Wintour and Meryl Streep.

Of course the creation of such a dress (and its painstakingly lengthy, intricate and complicated process) wouldn’t be possible without the House’s Atelier and its family of highly skilled seamstresses (Valentino refers to his as ‘Le Regazze’ a.k.a ‘The Girls.’) “Each of these designs have a beautiful story,” says Valentino. “The Atelier crafted each so diligently by hand, taking hours, sometimes days to complete. The details are incredibly intricate, though outside the runway shows and events, the dresses have rarely been seen, so to be able to showcase these designs at Somerset House, where they can be seen in great detail by the public, is very unique.”

Valentino: Master of Couture opens today until March 3rd 2013 at Somerset House, London.

somersethouse.org.uk

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Scream if you want to go faster

28.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

For Resort 2013, DSQUARED2’s Dean & Dan have time-warped us back to the Nineties with a cluster of kitsch accessories and a womenswear collection bold enough to rival the wardrobe of Cher Horowitz, whilst Miss Cara Delevingne, freshly crowned Model of the Year at the British Fashion Awards, provides us with the ultimate scream…

dsquared2.com

 

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Dear Diary

27.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

Each year since 2008 Swedish photographer Lina Scheynius has published a book of her photographs culled from her personal world. Pocket sized and lightly bound, they are designed to be carried around, a daily inspiration.

Her fourth book is out now and with half already gone, Twin recommends getting in there quick if you want to purchase a bit of beauty straight up and out of Lina’s life.

Lina’s book is available here.

linascheynius.com

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Hail and Hearty

26.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

According to the auspices, today is the biggest shopping day of the year. For most though joining the crush on Oxford Street is anathema. So all hail Meadham Kirchoff, who are offering a two-fold solution.

Twin’s fave design duo have brought some of that MK party style prints to the humble black cab. The designers are part of  online boutique destination FarFetch.com’s Unwrap Christmas campaign. So whether you beat the crowds by styaing home and shopping online, or cruising the streets in a taxi, the choice is all yours.

 

 

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Bruce Almighty

23.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

You don’t need technicolour to have Christmas dazzle. Bruce Weber, the master of the tonal portrait has brought his perrenially fresh touch to Selfridge’s Christmas campaign that answers the question, what would you do if you were locked in a department store overnight? Clearly we’d be riding around on our own pony drawn carriage with the odd hunk thrown in for good measure – anything’s possible with a little festive spirit!

selfridges.com

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OC YOKO

22.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

BOOM! Those guys at Opening Ceremony have dropped another collaboration on us and it can’t get more iconic than living legend Yoko Ono producing a menswear collection inspired by John Lennon’s ‘hot bod’ can it? The answer is no, obviously! Yoko recently revealed to Vogue that she always travels with a room full of clothes and the lady clearly knows her fabrics.

The collection, Fashions for Men: 1969-2012, is based on a compilation of hand-drawn illustrations presented to John Lennon by Yoko on the occasion of their wedding. Forty-three years later, OC and Yoko have worked together to bring a select group of these drawings to life, creating unisex apparel, footwear, and accessories in exclusive editions of only 52 pieces, as well as a limited run of sweatshirts, and posters featuring ONO’s artwork.

Due to land in the US on November 27th and then in London in early December, Yoko will be at OC’s Howard Street store on the 27th. Conceptual art has never been so bang on trend.

openingceremony.us

 

 

 

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Chicago Views

20.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

Riflemaker gallery sets the pace for other galleries when it comes to exhibiting the work of female artists such as Alice Anderson and Penny Slinger. It’s something the gallery manages to do in an unselfconscious – putting the work at the centre of the exhibition rather than the sentiment. So it seems fitting that the gallery should play host to the work and undoubtably large personality of Judy Chicago – her first UK show since 1985. The feminist activist whose work and opinions played a part in the second wave movement in the Sixties and Seventies is still a potent voice in promoting female orientated art work and here influence can be seen on the likes of Tracey Emin and beyond. Make sure you check out the exhibition for a broad view of her work then and now.

riflemaker.org

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J’Adore Dior

19.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

Dior have graced the windows of  historic Paris department store Printemps Haussmann with lashings of tulle, swirls of snow, cascades of sequins and gold plus the odd unicorn for a festive look that we want to capture in a bauble and hang on our own trees – as soon as we can finally justify getting them. Inside, Dior’s pop-up store has Christmas covered Lady Dior style with specially made Dior dolls, snow globes and advent calendars. We’re officially smitten.

dior.com

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15 Minute Frame

16.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

 

From 2007 to 2012 photographer Itai Doron took a polaroid of each of his subjects that came through his studio door. The result is Fifteen Minutes With You, 69 intensely raw and intimate images that weigh heavy with the nostalgia that defunct polaroid photography has quickly engendered. Doron’s images at once recall a studio casting shot but ones that’s grungier, darker and more sexual. As each Eastern European migrant worker, boxer, builder and MMA fighter  prepares to pose for Doron they are in turn awaiting their own fleeting moment of fame.

Fifteen Minutes With You is available at The Photographers’ Gallery bookshop, Claire de Rouen Books and online at photobookstore.co.uk.  

Served Up

13.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

Twin loves a Japanese takeout…Especially when our Bento boxes are packed full of lux-pop jewellery pieces that literally look good enough to eat. Ready-to-wear food has become the signature of Australian jeweller Lucy Folk, who has previously served up treats such as taco shell cuff links and pepper grain pendants.

Now, for Pre-Spring 2013, she has teamed her taste buds with those of Little Dragon’s Yukimi Nagano to create Bento – a collection consisting of sterling silver, powder coated steel and gold plated rings, bangles, necklaces and earrings that capture the simplicity yet beauty of basic ingredients most commonly featured in Asian cuisine such as sesame seeds,
rice, jasmine flowers and wasabi broad beans.

The Bento collection launches at Colette, Paris later this month.

lucyfolk.com

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Gender Gap

12.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

Since reopening, the Photographer’s Gallery has filled a photographic hole in our lives that only exhibitions such as the gloriously cat-brained For The LOL Of Cats could. Currently also exhibiting is Tom Wood’s Men and Women. A retrospective of the Irish born photographer’s long affiliation with Liverpool’s street life that feels less intrusive and more dreamy than Martin Parr’s similar famed forays into the North West. While the decision to bisect his work along gender lines feels somewhat arbitrary, presumably it is a concession to the natural emergence of a pattern of everyday life that sees women and men flocking with their own kind. What ever the reason, it’s given us another reason to fight the Oxford Street crowds.
Men and Women will be exhibited at The Photographer’s Gallery W1F 7LW until  January 6 2013

thephotographersgallery.org.uk

 

 

 

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Twin Playlist X Saint Lou Lou

09.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

The mesmerising Saint Lou Lou sisters feature in Twin VII out now. We asked them to oblige us with their favourite tracks…

1/ Lover You Should’ve Come Over – Jeff Buckley
If the words melancholy, despair and yearning were a song this would be it.

2/ Song To The Siren – This Mortal Coil
A marvellous version of Tim Buckley’s song. We fell for it after hearing it in a beautiful and absurd love making scene in  Lynch’s Lost Highway.

3/ Running Up That Hill – Kate Bush
We’ve been captivated by this song’s power and movement since childhood. It feels like  a soundtrack to one of those adventurous but anxious dreams you had  when you were little.

4/ That’s Us/Wild Combination – Arthur Russell
Arthur Russell had an extraordinary voice, songs and character. Enough said really.

5/Calmino Del Sol (Todd Terje Remix) – Antena
Great tune to help us get us in the mood, makes us feel glamourous in everyday life. Todd Terje is an amazing producer.

6/ Bonny – Prefab Sprout
Hidden gem. One of those songs you hear and can’t get out of your head. Why isn’t this song considered more of a classic?

7/ More Than This – Roxy Music
Well…this is considered a classic. Rightfully! It makes you want to be in love.

8/ Winter Rose (Nicolas Jaar Remix) – The Bees
There’s something special that Nicolas Jaar does to music…this is a good example.

9/ Love With Fun – Riz Ortolani
Soundtrack to the horror movie Cannibal Holocaust. One of the most beautiful pieces of music we’ve heard.

10/ I Wear Your Ring – Cocteau Twins
This song is the climax of ethereal pop. The layers. The flow. The quirkiness. Just acing it.

Listen to St Lou Lou”s playlist

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She shoots, she scores…

08.11.2012 | Blog | BY:

The last time I spoke to Hayley Louisa Brown she was about to catch a flight to New York:  “I’m going to be shooting some rappers as per usual,” she told me. I’m assuming not the literal meaning of the word shooting most stereotypically associated with this genre of music, you see, Hayley is a photographer… and a bloody good one at that!

Her career to date has seen her create fashion stories for renowned alternative style titles such as i-D, Rollacoaster and Grit, however music is where her heart lies – urban music in particular, which she has had the opportunity to play out to the fullest in her role as Urban Music Editor at Clash magazine. Danny Brown, Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs and Kendrick Lamar are just a few of the artists Hayley has captured through her camera lens for Clash, but Frank Ocean is currently on the top of her bucket list of desirable subjects; “I have had a vision of how I want to shoot him in my head for so long now, I need it to become a reality!”

In between check-in and take-off, Twin managed to grab a few more words with Hayley about her photographic process, youth culture and boys with mean eyes…

When did you realise you wanted to become a photographer?
The first time the thought occurred to me was during my first year of my Art BTEC at college – we had to take some photographs for a project and my teacher said ‘these are really good, you should take more pictures’, and then it kind of became my thing.

You tend to only shoot analogue – why is this important to you?
I think a lot of it is to do with privacy. I see taking pictures as an art form, and it’s so easy to be influenced by others when your images are instantly visible and open for criticism on set. Looking through my viewfinder and being the only one who knows what’s happening is really calming to me and allows me to create exactly what I want to. I think the whole process is beautiful, I love being in the darkroom and being the one making the picture into something real, into evidence.

You sometimes collage and illustrate over your pictures – Tell us a bit about this method of working?
I have an art background, but it’s more of a cutting and sticking background I guess. I love being able to incorporate the elements of art that I really love into my photographic work. I’ve always been hugely influenced by Punk and the visuals that went with the subculture, and I think that’s reflected in a lot of what I do. I also spend a lot of time hand tinting my images and painting them, I think I just like the physical process of working on something with my hands.

Do you have a favourite subject which/ whom you like to capture?
I love to shoot boys. Whenever I bring model cards home my Dad likes to look through them and guess whom he thinks I’ve booked – he always gets it right… He says I go for the ones with the mean eyes.

Who are your heroes?
My parents and Johnny Cash

What part does fashion play in your work?
I love youth culture, the way that young people customise and put things together in their own unique way, and I like to put that across in my work. I think that’s what’s important in a stylist, somebody who can make something believable and honest. That’s why I love working with people like Matthew Josephs – he’s incredibly talented and is always true to himself – He’s magic.

Is it important for you that your pictures reflect a narrative?
I always try and photograph people with personality, and I think if you can connect with your subject, there’ll always be a narrative.

What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given?
Most things my parents have told me when I’ve been lacking in confidence

What’s the best thing about being a girl?
Chivalry

What’s next for you?
My first magazine cover comes out in a couple of weeks, which I’m super excited about! I’m also currently working on a big project with my talented friend Lily Mercer that will be coming to light next year.

hayleylouisabrown.co.uk

 

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