Twin favourite Dan Martensen began taking road trips to the American Southwest in 2001, drawn to the beautiful decay of the desert environment. His new book Photographs from the American Southwest  collects his photographs from 2001 to 2011, depicting a world of Jesus Christ billboards, foreclosure signs and big-box stores, pitched against the backdrop of the lonely desert landscape. Twin asked Dan for one of his best memories of the project…

“Once I was driving somewhere very remote, along the border of Arizona and California. It was getting dark, and when it gets dark in the desert  it usually gets cold, very cold, very quickly. So as I drove along the road and the sun was setting, I hadn’t seen a soul along the road in at least an hour. I came around a bend as the sun was falling behind a mountain. It was beautiful, so I jumped out of the car and went to take a photograph.

“After about 10 minutes the sun was gone, and all of a sudden it was freezing… and I was wearing a t-shirt…. aaaand I realized I had locked myself out of my car….which was still running. I was fucked basically. After a minor freak out, I started thinking of ways to get into the car. With no rocks in sight, thoughts using my camera do break the window crossed my mind. With my phone staring back at me from inside the car I got fears of desert creatures, snakes, coyotes, meth addicts, would all be happy to find me there alone stranded in the cold.

“About 45 minutes went by pacing back and forth I remembered seeing an old barbed wire fence about 100 yards away. I hiked and sifted through the sand looking for a piece of barbed wire and eventually found a piece long enough to pry my way between the door and the window and jimmy the lock open leaving my hands bleeding and frozen I drove away shouting at the top of my lungs and laughing like a mad man.”

danmartensen.com

If you’re stuck for something to do this weekend then check out the Barbican’s latest exhibition Everything Was Moving. Each image, hived off from the Sixties and Seventies is as exciting as the period it documents. All together it’s a picture of a time of political turbulence and bygone style the world over.

It’s also a celebration of the golden age of film photography before digital imagery mapped our world and everyone became a photographer. The result is a diorama of photos that delight in the moment and have a real sense of spirit and are sure in their sheer volume to overwhelm.

Everything Was Moving: Photography From the 60s and 70s is on until 13 January.

barbican.org.uk

OK, admittedly we’ve kind of lost count of how many H&M designer collaborations there’s been. In the past eight years every type of fashionista has seen her and his needs met by a constant queue of high end designers offering to tame their prices for fashion-lovers on a budget.

Still, the Maison Margiela collaboration is perhaps the most intriguing of the lot and we can’t wait to see how the brand’s paired down cool wit will translate when crammed onto high street rails. But the prospect of the brands ID seeping into the common populace is pretty exciting. So with November 15th still a month away, our patience was a bit pushed when this glorious monochrome pic was leaked this week of the upcoming campaign shot my Sam Taylor Wood. Maison Margiela are most definitely in the house!

Over the years, the Chloe girl has taken on the nuances of the designers who have passed through the label, from Karl Lagerfeld to Stella McCartney, from Phoebe Philo to Claire Wright Keller. But always the essential DNA remains the domain of the young, carefree girl about town who embraces hippie chic while staying true to her socialite core.

To celebrate the label’s 60th anniversary exhibition Chloé Attitudes at the Palais de Tokyo, they’ve also launched a new digital platform The Alphabet – which allows fans of the brand to explore its rich heritage using A-Z themes.

Each letter tells an individual story about the label. Twin loves film-maker Kathryn Ferguson’s film for the letter H, which features wild horses driving through wild plains by twilight. Horses are a passion for both McCartney and Philo, the young maverick designers who were so much responsible for revitalising the brand with the youthful feel it has today.

The exhibition Chloé Attitudes is at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris  until November 18.
Check The Alphabet here.

As we march towards the end of the international S/S 13 Ready-to-wear shows, we thought we’d pick out a few highlights from Milan, the ever slick and chic capital of Italian fashion.

Prada S/S 13

Miuccia follows her

own curve, and fashion seems to duly chase after it. For S/S fashion’s haute feminist looked East, taking inspiration from Geisha girls, those archaic and uneasy figures of woman-hood. But there was nothing constricting about Prada’s take on the silk kimono, that was deconstructed with a street-style feel and a boyish twist. Single-flower motifs had the graphic feel of the Nineties, a decade that keeps urging a revival. Beauty-wise, it marked the return of the messy crop, that was perfectly punctuated with a slick of red, for that modern vamp look.

Jil Sander S/S 13

Now the designer herself is back at the helm, there’s an extra sense of excitement to see where the label that created modern wearable minimalism a global trend. Where in past seasons Raf Simons created the Jil Sander silhouette in acid array of colour, this collection was muted with just the odd mellow orange and pillar box red placed among the russets, greys and space age white. There were few suprises in the shape of the cut, which was uniformly loosely tailored and kept plain and unpatterned but for some jazzy appliqued discs, but it was undoubtably the Sander that we know and lust after.

Giorgio Armani S/S 13

For Spring Armani sent his elegant socialite into orbit. Starting with elegant loose tailoring, this was a collection of slick greys and dark blues that had an opulent mannish sportiness reminiscent of Jordan Baker in The Great Gatsby. As ever, Armani’s strengths lay in his evening wear, which can always be relied upong for some super luxe trousers. But it was his star gazing mesh cage and trippy trouser suit that blew our minds.

When Vivienne Westwood took to the catwalk last week in hotpants and a scribbled on monocle and moustache at the age of 71, she was carrying the flame for Punk. Despite the DBE, Dame Viv is a dependable irreverant. A sole fan pumping fresh air into the stultifying culture that pervades in the shape of One Direction, the X Factor. and Tory MPs calling us all Plebs.

For the rest of us, a little bit of anarchy could probably go a long way. So if you’re looking for some inspiration, the Hayward Gallery’s exhibition Some Day All The Adults Will Die! Punk Graphics is a good starting point. Accompanying the exhibition is Jon Savage and Johan Kugelberg’s new book Punk: An Aesthetic, the very title underlines what it was all about. If you’re going to start a riot, you’re best to do it in style.

haywardgallery.com

As storms batter Britain, the mood has turned that little bit darker. So when these images of LN-CC’s new stock landed in Twin’s inbox, we were with the vibe already. Dark and dangerous has replaced Summer loving. And as those Cimmerian evenings close in, we’re thinking it won’t be so bad if we can weather it like at the Late Night Chameleon Club…

Boboutic Women’s Crew Neck Metallic Yarn Jumper // Boboutic Women’s Soft Jacquard Trousers // Cherevichkiotvichki Women’s Bark Dyed Ankle Boots

Kolor Women’s Seam Detail Shorts // Jil Sander Women’s Box Sweater // Damir Doma Women’s Channa Coat // Cherevichkiotvichki Women’s Bark Dyed Ankle Boots

LN-CC FILM: AW12 002 from LN-CC on Vimeo.

Top Image: Haider Ackermann Women’s Steiner Jacket // Yang Li Women’s Skate Shorts

Next season’s Meadham Kirchoff girl is pretty as a picture. Ringlets and cherubin rosy cheeks were the order of the day as Meadham Kirchoff went from the disco setting of their last collection, to what felt like a riot in a boudoir as reams of ribbon and petticoats burst onto the catwalk. Lace pantalettes under full, short skirts topped with delicious looking bows that looked good enough to eat created a feel that was two parts Eighteenth Century socialite and one part Mini Mouse.

As ever the duo presented so many ideas at once that it was only on later deconstruction that we could fully appreciate the brilliant separates on offer. From cute sweaters with ribbon slogans to white denim jackets, powder blue brocade trousers to cartoon courts, this was a sumptuous banquet of a collection that we can’t wait to be invited to.

If like us, you’re feeling a bit showed out right now and that your head is just a mash-up of glorious shapes, colours and fabrics with no sign of a let up for a good couple of weeks yet, then take a moment to stop and just consider Alexander McQueen’s new Cicada Jewel Knucklebox Clutch.

Pretty golorious isn’t it? It wouldn’t look out of place in the Tower of London nestling among all those Tudor jewels. With that lethal McQueen edge it almost looks like some exquisite torture contraption – we’re thinking death by gold wouldn’t be so bad…now if we can just get our hands on it, we’ll have that baroque gilt trend that’s weighing heavy for this autumn, all boxed up.

alexandermcqueen.co.uk

Fresh with a zing for Spring, when Topshop Unique sent quintessential London model Jourdan Dunn down the catwalk in a sheer panelled dress the tone was set for the show, and we totally got it.

The words pure and modern were cut to fit the collection perfectly. There was an almosty space age quality to the lines and silvery colours. And where last season Unique was boldly masculine, this was about a type of androgyny that was at heart unmistakeably feminine. Trouser suits, having their fashion moment right now, were tailored louche and sporty rather than stiffly masculine and the dresses were body conscious without needing to resort to actual figure hugging. Embellishment was also kept to a minimum, with the strappy heels conveying the same sense of clarity as the clothes.

Asymmetrical lines in the form of angled zips and jaunty panelling kept what was at one level a sophisticated collection affirming Unique as Topshop’s older, chicer sibling, on the right side of cool and young. And the colour palette of white and black was punctured almost solely by a slim daffodil yellow slice of a trouser suit, creating the perfect Gin ‘n Tonic look that has us already thirsting for Spring.

Having met during their very first lesson together at London College of Fashion and soon after discovering they shared several similarities, it seemed rather apt that womenswear designers, Fanny and Jessy, would later produce their graduate collection as a collaborative project. Now two years on the pair are still very much a pair, living and working together on their eponymous label from their East London studio.

After recently deciding to reassess their way of working, Fanny and Jessy present their latest project entitled Something Season-less, a collection free of seasonal-specifics and restrictions in an attempt to maintain focus on what is truly important; creativity.

With an armful of other exciting future plans including a take-over of the digital world, the design-duo spoke to Twin to tell us more…

For AW’12 you ‘sexed up’ sportswear – what is your latest collection all about?
J: The inspiration for this collection came from detailed images of earthscapes. It is a natural progression from our AW’12 so it still has a very sporty aesthetic – There is a lot of white, mesh and jersey.
F: We’ve also included a few pieces that are traditionally ‘girly’ like dresses but it still has a unisex, tomboy-vibe to it, as that’s central to our label.

Who then is your favourite famous tomboy?
J: Just girls who are sexy and cool but who have a casual ‘don’t care’ attitude to their style.
F: Girls like Lou Doillon, Freja Beha Erichsen and Erin Wasson.

Do you believe in girl power?
F: Well we were both massive Spice Girls fans – I lived off that shit when I was a kid… So yes!
J: We believe in Girl Power with a Tomboy twist!

I hear you girls also DJ – any other hidden creative talents?
F: I don’t know if I would say our DJing was really much of a ‘creative’ talent, more just a bit of fun on the side…

Where can we party with you?
J: We do a set at Birthday’s Club Babe night in Dalston. Also our friends are in a band called The Tricks who put on a monthly night called Bop! Club, which we also play at.

What tune(s) have been on your studio playlist recently?
J: ‘Elephant’ by Tame Impala.
F: I watched a documentary on George Harrison the other day so I’ve been listening to a lot of early Beatles stuff.

It’s no secret that young designers work 24-7 – What is your essential item(s) to get you through a long day (and night) working in your studio?
Food! It goes through extremes though – We’re either super healthy and only eat rye bread, hummus, steamed vegetables and jasmine tea or we’ll binge on McDonalds and Pepsi!

Where can we buy your pieces?
We have stockists over in Japan currently but we’ll also be selling our AW’12 through our very own online store which we will be launching this month! It’s really exciting as it means we have the opportunity to be a lot more connected to our customers. We’ll also be releasing special offers and discount codes so make sure you follow us on Twitter for updates. (@FannyAndJessy)

What does the future hold for the Fanny & Jessy label?
At the moment we’re focusing a lot more on the digital aspect of our business. As well as our new transactional website, we think social media is particularly important: Instead of having a physical presence at London Fashion Week this season we produced five different teaser films with the filmographer Danny Sangra, that we released one day at a time online.

We also recently did a blog swap with The Tokyo Fashion Diaries where we documented what was happening in London that week and vice versa. It was not only fun but really successful so we would like to do some more in the future with other bloggers from across the globe… Digital world here we come!

fannyandjessy.co.uk

Not only does today mark the arrival of London Fashion Week, but it also sees the much anticipated opening of the debut standalone store by McQ; the ‘younger sister’ line from Alexander McQueen. Situated at number 14 Dover Street, the new boutique – a converted Georgian townhouse – sits amongst a hub of style and luxury, counting the world-renowned Dover Street Market and Acne’s London flagship as next-door neighbours.

The three-story conceptual retail space offers womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories as well as a selection of coveted AW’12 catwalk pieces that featured during the label’s debut London Fashion Week show earlier this year.

David Collins, the mastermind behind the boutique’s design, explains how it was important that the interiors reflected a similar signature aesthetic to that of the fashion house itself: “We looked at fetish. We wanted the home of McQ to be a parallel view of Alexander McQueen, where eroticism is part of the fabric and design that slowly unfolds throughout the store.”

Inspired by surrealism, Collins’ focused on fusing futuristic technology with time-honoured luxury: traditional Japanned lacquer lines the walls and ivory shag-pile carpeting cover the aged wooden flooring, whilst an interactive digital table displays current brand content and ‘gesture-controlled’ mirrors allow shoppers to share pictures of their new look through social media channels.

For further information or to shop online visit: McQ.com

Art fairs have been through a boom in recent years with the likes of Frieze transforming the buying of new art into a circus of excitement. With London, New York and Miami getting a fair crack of the whip, what about the artists quietly forging their own movements and hubs outside the dominating big tops?

Twin spoke to artist, curator and project-maker Flis Mitchell about CAVE, an art fair in Liverpool that kicks off today…

 
Why have you organised CAVE?
I created CAVE alongside (artist and curator) Kevin Hunt because Liverpool hadn’t had any art fairs, even though it’s common in other cities to have a fair at the same time as the Biennial, but if you want something that doesn’t exist you should just create it, so we did.

When we were developing CAVE we quickly realised that we should dispense with the traditional model and come up with something that excited us, so here it is, an art fair that shows only exciting unrepresented artists, sells work and allows us to drink cocktails in pineapples.

What is CAVE focused on?
CAVE only exhibits unrepresented artists, excludes galleries and doesn’t take a commission fee or an exhibition fee; this means the whole sale price of each work is received by the artist, people forget that when you visit the traditional gallery or art fair 50% of the sale price goes to the host, not the producer, and that’s fine, but we wanted to play with an alternative.
We don’t have art assistants, or layers of mediation, which allows artists to engage with visitors, it’s a dynamic and fluid sales system- we encourage people to ask questions, make deals and get involved. CAVE is a dynamic platform for talk and transactions.

I feel like there’s allot of unnecessary mystification that surrounds contemporary art sales, it helps to contextualise those super-cosmically high prices. I prefer direct transactions, and see buying art at CAVE as buying at trade rather than retail.

Are all the artists involved connected to Liverpool?
Roughly 25% of the artists are from Liverpool; however we’ve also got artists from across the UK, including Bristol, London, Nottingham, Glasgow, Edinburgh and Plymouth. Our only specification was that the artists were exciting and unrepresented and UK based.

Can you tell me about a couple of artists that you’re particularly excited about?
I am so excited to be presenting our artists!

I’m totally in love with the artist who are producing new or performative works for CAVE. Sam Venables is a very exciting artist, whose work is utlra right now, for CAVE Sam is creating an installation where visitors can get an ‘art hair cut’ in her Sick Salon; another personal favourite of mine is Matt Welch who’s huge work Untitled (Crass Sculpture) is awesome. I totally love them all! Oliver Braids performance of Sincerity Shoe is absolutely one I’m going to see, and there are rumours of a mysterious performance from 70/30.

What is the Liverpool art scene like right now?
Underrated! Liverpool is a cultural beast! We host of the UK’s largest art festival, and have numerous successful creative start ups, for instance: Deep Hedonia, or The Double Negative (recently interviewed on Radio6 Music), we’ve got creative industry incubators, we’ve got DaDaFest and Brouhaha both of which are internationally recognised, there are a host of world class graphic design studio’s, we’ve got critically engaged and ambitious studio groups, and in fact The Royal Standard (artist led studio group where Kevin and I am based) was involved in No Soul For Sale (Tate Modern) and was one of 70 international independent spaces included, and one of only 5 from the UK. We’ve got the John Moore’s Painting prize, the Liverpool Art Prize etc. etc.

Yet Liverpool still suffers from a suffocating lack of coverage, for instance Adrian Searle didn’t mention Liverpool at all in his highlights of 2012, despite the aforementioned Biennial and painting prize. It’s frustrating to be sitting on what feels like the UK’s best kept secret.

Tell us something about Liverpool we might not expect?
No way! Visit, and find out for yourself, that it might not be what you think…

What’s your favourite colour and why?
Ah, I’m waaaay to flighty in my tastes to choose, maybe I’ll compromise with you and pick the red and orange families, oh, and fluro colours and gold, and top of the draw, glow-in-the –dark. Mmmmmm tasty colour treats.

CAVE is at the Baltic Creative Campus, Liverpool until 16 September.

caveartfair.com

Countdown to London Fashion Week has already begun and we”re already lining up the usual suspects when it comes to the hit collections. As ever, Topshop Unique is bound to be a big draw, with a queue longer than a catwalk trying to storm the show.

Twin caught up with head designer Emma Farrow as she makes her final S/S13 preparations…

Your previous Unique collection had strong masculine influences – how do you explain the enduring appeal of tomboyish style?
With the Topshop Unique collection it is important for us that we play with the contrasts between masculine and feminine.

It’s a great way to transform a look that could become too serious. For example a sexy evening dress is taken in a different direction when put with a boyfriend jacket. It has an ease to it and this is always at the top of our checklist when creating looks for the show.

Topshop holds a  peerless position in the fashion world in that it’s a high street chain with unrivalled fashion force – what’s the key?
It is the same design team that works on both the mainline and Unique collections. Unique is different as it allows us to work in the same way as other high end designers, taking the collection from initial ideas stage right through to the catwalk. This helps to kick start us into thinking about the new season ahead. We are also very fortunate to have contact with some of the worlds best stylists which contributes to a constantly evolving inspiration focus.

When did you first realise you wanted to be a designer?
I always wanted to be a fine artist growing up. I kind of happened upon this career by being in the right place at the right time. My mum would tell you though that I always had very strong opinions about my clothes from an early age and quite often would refuse to wear something for just not being ‘quite right’!

As a designer, how do you stay ahead of the fashion curve?
Just keeping my eyes and ears open to what’s going on out there in the world!

What was the last item of clothing you bought?
An old Balenciaga dress from Narnia NYC. Oh and some nude Baxter jeans from Topshop.

What are you wearing right now?
A camel men-sy jumper and Vintage floral Marni dress. Black pointy chelsea boots from Watanabe (and grey men’s socks!)

What films, images, music do you find yourself constantly returning to for inspiration?
Music and film are influences but no particular genre do we return to, occasionally a new actress or musician may pop up that we may draw inspiration from as a muse.
At the moment we love Grimes and the Fanning sisters for example.
Imagery on the other hand is super important. We work from numerous trend boards at anyone time and these will consist of great editorial shoots from magazines, street style blog imagery, vintage research etc.

Is there a type of woman that you design with in mind when working on a Unique collection?
Not really Unique is for anyone and everyone who loves fashion.

What’s your biggest fashion regret?
Definitely not buying the black Prada mens shoes with silver studs when they were in the shops a few years ago.
I still dream of them. They would just go with everything in my wardrobe.

If you hadn’t been a fashion designer, what would you have been?
Landscape gardener or something to do with interiors.