Homecoming

17.07.2012 | Blog | BY:

Ever since construction commenced on the 2012 Olympic village, the world’s eyes have been transfixed on East London; an area which renowned photographer, David Bailey, however has been observing and documenting his whole life.

A genuine East-ender through and through, Bailey expresses his admiration and love for his homeland by centring his latest retrospective on the area and its people. The exhibition entitled David Bailey’s East End, displays an edited collection of work from his impressive fifty-year archive with a specific focus on three decades; the Sixties, Eighties and the present.

Early candid shots depict scenes of children playing, women shopping and men drinking (very much the stereotypical roles of a working class Britain,) whilst other images focus purely on the past environment of places such as Bricklane, Whitechapel and Canning Town, largely representing the deprivation, dereliction and decay of East London during this period. Interestingly, assembled scaffolding boards and poles act as the wall mount for this display; perhaps as a reference to the most recent regeneration.

A hint of the glamour most commonly associated with Bailey’s fashion photographs only begins to emerge in the Eighties series with a number of images capturing his wife and famous fashion model, Catherine, elegantly posing next to the Royal Docks (the very location which the exhibition itself takes place). The placement of these alluring shots are cleverly contrasted against panoramas portraying towering steel cranes, dilapidated warehouses and sullied factory sites accentuating the once vast unsightly industrialism of the East London cityscape.

From Sixties Cockney boozers to the streetscapes of present today, this display is photojournalism at its best, effectively documenting the altering physical and social landscapes of East London over the past fifty years.

David Bailey’s East End is on now until 5 August at Create London, Compressor House, Royal Docks, London.
createlondon.org

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Gym Boy

16.07.2012 | Blog | BY:

Two years ago photographer Jo Metson Scott met Hamish and she’s been following his progress ever since. Hamish is a member of the Elite Great British Gymnastic squad.  He is one of the country’s top athletes; dedicated, focused, muscular, and twelve years old.

Through her work Jo has documented Hamish’s life and the graft needed to make is as an elite gymnast have shaped every single aspect of his life.

“Hamish’s command of movement makes his body seem powerful and weightless and it is easy to forget that he is still a child. He spends more time in the gym than he does at school,” says Jo. “His training partners are his closest friends but also his competitors. They depend on each other immensely, both physically and emotionally, but ultimately they will end up competing against each other and there will only ever be one winner.”

Bestowing an empathetic awareness of the strength and vulnerability central to Hamish’ life, Jo uses muted colour tones and soft blurred shapes to accentuate the beauty and control of the young gymnasts’ bodies.

With the London Olympics approaching it is a timely exploration of a life dedicated to becoming an elite athlete.  The journey to compete in the Olympic games starts many years before the competition.

Gym Boy will be exhibited at B store, kingly Street, London until 26 August.

 

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Yayoi Kusama X Louis Vuitton

13.07.2012 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

At first glance, Yayoi Kusama and the house of Louis Vuitton may not seem like the most harmonious couple. One is an eccentric artist known for her psychedelic installations, the other is a luxurious and world-renowned label under the multi-billion pound LVMH helm. However, just like in one of the Japanes artist’s polka dot paintings, there is more than meets the eye.

Both Kusama and Vuitton embody the idea of plunging oneself headfirst into an artistic vision. As much as the flame red-haired Kusama is an artwork in her own right, the house of Louis Vuitton, under the guidance of Marc Jacobs, has made train journey and carousel ride runway shows a continuously extraordinary event of the Ready To Wear season, year in, year out.

This month sees the release of the duo’s range of clothing, accessories and footwear, all covered in Kusama’s signature polka dot prints, coinciding with the opening of the artist’s exhibition at the Whitney Museum of American Art. On August 24, Kusama’s designs for the house will also take over London department store Selfridges with a 24-window display showcasing the new collection, as well as the transformation of the Concept Store inside, thanks to the artist’s signature giant pumpkins. The idea of fashion being art may seem like a tired cliche, but Yayoi Kusama and Louis Vuitton prove there is still a lot of exciting invigoration to bring to the table.

louisvuittonkusama.com

whitney.org

selfridges.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=c_FtspWyie0

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More than a woman

12.07.2012 | Blog | BY:

Domino Pateman is no stranger to women’s issues. As Arts Co-ordinator at Southbank Centre in London, she works alongside artistic Director Jude Kelly on special projects such as the fantastic Women of the World festival aka WOW.

Last week she attended Tatler’s much talked about Lesbian Ball, which editor Kate Reardon stated her aim as being an attempt to “normalise lesbians in high society”. Domino was among the glamorous and accomplished women, both gay, straight, whatever to get an invite.

Halifax born and with achievements under her belt such as once being the UK’s youngest pilot, Twin asked Domino about the event and whether she feels women are defined by their sexuality…

When did you receive your invitation and were you surprised by the premise of the evening?
I received the invitation about 6 weeks ago via email. The invite stated who the dinner was to celebrate and that it was ‘no boys allowed’. I assumed I’d been invited through my work on Southbank Centre’s WOW – Women of the World festival. Which in a way, I was – Tamsin Omond, one of the girls profiled in Tatler, I’d invited to speak at the festival in 2011.

Do you think there is a problem with the way gay women are shown in society – is there is a need to ‘normalise’ lesbianism?
Yes, definitely. There isn’t enough variety in the way women in general, let alone gay women, are shown in society or portrayed in the media, films, tv, cartoons, magazines etc. Young women need role models – they need to be able to point at someone who inspires them and to say ‘i can be like that’. If there are no lesbians in the public eye or portrayed positively in the media, it’s even harder for gay women to identify a role model. Being a lesbian is as normal as not being a lesbian so any form of normalisation is necessary until it’s no longer necessary.

How helpful is it for gay women to have champions in the shape of glossy mags and glamorous dinners?
 It’s helpful. I imagine a girl sat at home in West London (either that or at the dentists) who has just started to feel as if she might be a lesbian but daren’t say anything picking up the August issue of Tatler, seeing London’s smartest and lovliest lesbians and thinking ‘wow, maybe it’s not so bad that I fancy girls’. There are lots of influential and well-connected people who read Tatler and get invited to glamorous dinners and if championing lesbians in this way can go some way to further normalise lesbians to them and the people they influence than that’s great.

How do you feel about being defined by your sexuality?
 I don’t think I am defined by my sexuality so I don’t know. People should be able to choose how they are defined. Some might want to be defined by their sexuality, some might not.

Why do you think it’s so much more acceptable to be rude about gay women, than gay men publicly? I’m thinking about AA Gill here…
I’m not sure. There are lots of things that men do that are more accepted just because they’re men and being gay isn’t an exception – it probably goes all the way back to prehistoric times when men were stronger than women. I think there’s probably something in there about the legitimacy that a man is considered to bring with him. I heard a theory on the radio once about how a man might be gay but at least he’s a man, so he loses on one count but wins on another. A woman is gay AND a woman so she loses on both. Maybe that’s why. Also in extreme cases maybe people are terrified of lesbians in case they take over the world and eradicate the need for men forever

Have you personally suffered prejudice in regards to your sexuality?
 Not overtly.

How was the night for you?
 It was really fun. It would have been nice if there had been some speeches to explain the reason for the evening and to introduce the women who were being profiled, but other than that it was great.

What was your highlight of the evening?
Milling about. Recruiting people for the Women of the World festival. Making new bezzies.

What did you wear?
Comme de garcons dress and balenciaga shoes.

What does the future look like?
 Some people will only fancy boys, some people will only fancy girls, some people won’t fancy anyone, some people will fancy boys and girls, some people won’t care what gender the person they fancy is. Just the same as now, but in the future it will all be whatevs. That and probably a constant stream of computer glitches that will make all our lives hell.

southbankcentre.co.uk

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Arizona Muse x G-Star

11.07.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Arizona Muse managed to shoot campaigns for the likes of Prada, Fendi and Yves Saint Laurent almost as soon as she placed foot on her first catwalk four years ago. Since her debut, the 23-year-old’s intense gaze, bold brows and all-around versatility have secured her a spot as one of the highest-ranking models in the industry.

This season, the Tucson-born beauty works her effortlessly cool look to maximum effect as G-Star’s new brand ambassador in the label’s Autumn/Winter 2012 campaign. Photographed by Anton Corbijn against an alpine backdrop, the result is a set of powerful and captivating black and white images. They don’t call her Muse for nothing.

g-star.com

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The Couture Collective

10.07.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This year’s Autumn/Winter 2012 haute couture shows were another testament to signature style. Be it the modern romance of Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli or Giambattista Valli’s ever-enticing plays on volume and silhouettes, the one unifying factor  throughout every collection was a representation of each brand’s true essence, underlined by highly-refined tailoring and draping.

Twin selects our favourite personal visions of the season…

 

Bouchra Jarrar

Couture cool is Jarrar’s calling card and although those expecting overtly dramatic ball gowns or extravagant embellishments from couture may be disappointed, her softly draped tunic dresses and forties-esque trench coat top and A-line, knife-pleated skirt combinations add a modern yet elegant touch to the couture circuit. As they say, sometimes less is more.

 

 

Chanel

This season Karl Lagerfeld saw it as his mission to put a new spin on vintage. While the collection managed to revamp classics such as the tweed suit, tea dresses and peter pan collars in a colour palette that included soft shades such as petal rose and cream, its true appeal was in the unmatchable craftsmanship of the house of Chanel. Hundred upon hundreds of hand-sewn sequins and a breathtaking feather, lace and tulle finale dress were just two examples that further solidified the label’s spot at the top of couture pyramid.

 

Dior

Couture week undoubtedly belonged to Raf Simons. Although he might have not been the most obvious successor to Galliano’s theatrical showings, the Belgian designer’s minimalist aesthetic has proved the perfect partner to Christian Dior’s original elegant and strongly feminine designs. Peplum waist tops and dresses paired with straight cut trousers, not to mention the two-sided evening gowns with crystal embellishments put a refreshingly modern spin on New Look-esque silhouettes.

 

Gambattista Valli

Nymph creatures and a fairytale narrative were woven into every fibre of Valli’s designs. Rich emerald greens and ruby garnet florals were printed on high-necked ruffled cocktail dresses and evening gowns cinched in at the waist with gold ivy belts. With a beautiful play of volume and colour, the collection was an all-round dream.

 

Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci’s tribal warrior was equipped with face-obscuring sunglasses and menacing dogs, but that didn’t keep the collection from being feminine and alluring, thanks to halter necklines and iridescent ombre fringing. In short, it was a well-balanced mixture of elegance, urbanism and the beauty of nature.

 

Maison Martin Margiela

In the light of the brand’s upcoming collaboration with high street retailer H&M, some fear that the house of Margiela will succumb to commercialism. However this collection was a piece of avant-garde artistry. From the crystal face masks to the dynamic collages of fabric and textures. Refreshing and original, it proved why Maison Martin Margiela more than deserves a permanent spot on the haute couture schedule.

Valentino

Midnight blue dresses, fully-sequined, brocade printed and embroidered cocktail pieces, as well as floor-length pleated chiffon gowns made this collection one of typical Valentino glamour, whilst  canary yellow, magenta and blood red added rich pops of colour. In our eyes, Chiuri and Piccioli can do no wrong.

 

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ONCE YOU POP, YOU CAN’T STOP…

09.07.2012 | Blog | BY:

Mods, Rockers, Hippies and Punks: we’re all familiar with the prominently stereotyped subcultures of the late twentieth century and their associated signature attire, but where did they come from and how did they help shape a generation of youth?

Pop! Design. Culture. Fashion, the latest exhibition to be housed at London’s Fashion & Textiles Museum, explores the significance of popular culture (or ‘Pop’) between 1956 and 1976, and the impacting relationship amongst music, film, fashion and art during this twenty-year span.

The exhibition itself acts rather like a three-dimensional time line, beginning with when the “youth bomb” first exploded onto the scene in the early Fifties. Signifying the start of a new post-war world, the Fifties created a social and revolutionary change, but it also introduced a new cultural phenomenon; Rock ‘n’ Roll. Assorted exhibits originating from this period are displayed within the museum’s downstairs show space, highlighting the influence from cult films such as Rebel Without a Cause and Blackboard Jungle as well as the seminal sounds from iconic musicians including Gene Vincent and, of course, Elvis Presley.

With the arrival of each new decade, Pop’s centre of gravity travelled from city to city, country to country: The Sixties were spent swinging in London while San Francisco initiated the psychedelia of the Seventies. The exhibition chronologically guides viewers through this journey ending with the anarchist age of Punk. For each era an extensive range of original art, fashion, photographs and memorabilia are displayed, taken from one of the most comprehensive private collections of its kind. Notable artifacts include items from Elton John’s personal wardrobe, autographed photographs of The Beatles and early pieces from Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s infamous King’s Road boutique, Sex.

Pop! Design. Culture. Fashion. is on now until the 27th October at the Fashion & Textiles Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, London.

ftmlondon.org

Twin Heart Shalom

06.07.2012 | Blog | BY:

If you haven’t already, check out Shalom Harlow glorious in Alexander Wang talking about her upbringing and career. Our Nineties model crush bringing it back.

Hinge, Hook and Handle

05.07.2012 | Blog | BY:

Spend a day with womenswear and jewellery designer, Kirsty Ward, and you’ll never look at an ordinary household object in the same way again: Hinges, hooks and handles are just a few items that Ward has previously incorporated into her jewellery collections alongside striking Swarovski crystals and intricately structured wire shapes, transforming the mundane into the masterful.

These bold, statement necklaces, earrings and bracelets create the perfect paradox amid the clean minimalistic aesthetic of her garments; something that has notably become the signature of Ward’s work.

Now in her fifth season, Twin visited Kirsty in her North London studio to discuss tabards, tea ladies and Star Trek…

Describe your signature design style in three words…
Contradictive minimal embellishment.

Do you have a muse?
It’s not anyone specific, just a mash up of girls in my mind.

Tell us a bit about the ‘Kirsty Ward’ girl.
She loves fashion and loves to stand out with fun statement jewellery, she appreciates a fun/clever/interesting detail, and will always make a ‘look’ her own. She buys pieces that make her heart beat a little faster with excitement rather than the fact that its deemed ‘cool’ that season! She doesn’t follow the crowd. 

You’re currently working on your SS ’13 collection – any hints as to what we can expect?
Tea ladies and tabards with a modern sci-fi edge.

What has been inspiring you lately?
My new delivery of Swarovski crystals and the many ways certain garments can be merged with a shirt.

Every season you collaborate with fellow womenswear designer, David Longshaw – are there any other designers whom you would like to one day collaborate with?
It’s always great collaborating with fellow young designers; I would also love to collaborate with Nicolas Ghesquiere or Raf Simons. But on another note it would also be great to collaborate with some menswear designers in the future too.

 What music have you been listening to in your studio lately?
Gil Scott-Heron and Jamie xx, Slow Club, Talking Heads, Jake Bugg, Kindness, Grimes, M.I.A.

If you weren’t a fashion & jewellery designer what would you do?
Perhaps I’d open a sweet shop, with cool artisan sweeties sourced from all over the world, with amazing packaging and service.

What’s next for the label?
Concentrating on the business side of things, working on building press and stockists in various parts of the world.

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Raf Simons X Dior Couture

03.07.2012 | Blog | BY:

It’s fair to say that Raf Simons’ couture debut for Dior was the most hotly tipped show in Paris this week. And ever since the industry caught sight of that hot pink floor length bustier, the praise has been ringing in from around the fashion world, with names from Marc Jacobs to Donatella Versace speaking in admiration.

So, unsurprisingly we’re adding our voice to the applause. Truly this was the kind of couture that Twin just gets. There was a lightness of touch to the shapes that were at once a sketch of the past, proving that Simons’ famed minimalism can marry with the most classic of fashion houses.

Dramatic embroidered ball-gowns and cigarette pant suits reached back to the New Look but stripped away the nostalgia in favour of clean lines and brilliant colour that helped reveal the original architecture that made Dior so revolutionary in 1947. This was femininity, but in a way we could all recognise as relevant to contemporary fashion sensibilities, exemplified by the easy elegance of the models’ hands in pockets swagger. Even the abundance of fresh delphiniums and orchids on the walls were a triumph of structure over the riotous bouquet.

While Simons was only appointed four short months ago, we’ve been waiting 18 months to see the direction the house of Dior takes. The verdict fifty-four outfits later? Ok there were echoes of Simons’ later work at Jil Sander, but that’s certainly not a reason to complain. Indisputably the Dior DNA was all there. The collection showed Dior have bagged themselves a designer that’s going to put Dior on our list, and surely every sane fashionistas also.

Watch an interview with Raf Simons…

Photograph: Benoit Tessier/Reuters

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Crazy. Sexy. Cool.

03.07.2012 | Art , Blog | BY:

London-born photographer Kate Bellm’s work is all about letting loose. But don’t let the carefree attitude behind her images fool you: with her colourful and striking images, the young talent has already worked for clients such as Adidas, Harrods and Fleet Ilya, as well as exhibited at venues such as the Galerie M. H. Karst in Paris, alongside household names such as Terry Richardson and Nick Knight.

Twin caught up with the photography wünderkind to chat about cosmopolitan creative contrasts, Guy Bourdin and why nudity equals freedom…

What first sparked your interest in photography?

I liked everything about photography from the moment I started: playing around with different techniques in the darkroom and in camera, meeting different people all the time and making imaginary scenarios and memories that are all yours. My favourite thing about it is definitely the memories you save, imagining the photos in 30 years time when you look back on these small worlds of different people who have travelled and inspired you for all the shots.

Working between Berlin and London, what creative differences do you see between the two cities?

For me they are worlds apart. Berlin is all about characters and crazy shoots, freedom, nature and getting naked, breaking into old houses and shooting amazing untouched spots. I feel like a lot in London has been seen before as so much photography is done there and obviously the work is much more commercial and fashion based. Nevertheless, I am inspired there too, by my family and where I grew up in the countryside which evidently is the location for most of my shoots in England.

Some of your photos have a quite Guy Bourdin-esque feel to them, would you say that he is a big influence? Where else do you find inspiration?

Yeah, he totally inspires me. I have had all his books since I was a teenager and actually was just in a group show with his work! [The ICONS OF TOMORROW exhibit at Christophe Guye Galerie in Zurich] That was definitely a dream come true. Also, I am really inspired by all my friends in Berlin right now, they always come by my studio and together we think of crazy new techniques to develop my photos with and have big painting and illustration sessions together.

On the subject of Bourdin, what role does sexuality play in your work?

I just love sexy photos. I mean it’s not even underlying anymore for me unless I’m working it into a fashion shoot. I like shooting my friends naked, for me it’s complete freedom!

As female photographer how do you attempt to represent women in your images?

I represent them as free and having a good time in whatever situation we find ourselves in. I want people to realise that naked images are not a big deal, it’s actually more a state of mind of being happy with your body. But somehow without even realising it, the girls always look insanely sexy.

What work can we expect to see from you in the future?

More road trips, naked girls, skateboarders and paint bombs. Issue 2 of my zine ROCKERS is coming out next week. It will be a Girls edition, so full of all my favourite ladies. I also have a group show coming up in Berlin in September where we are building an acid forest full of colour-painted wood, space skate ramps, wigwams, bone chandeliers and other mystical wonders. Watch out for it on my blog: katesworld.tumblr.com.

katebellm.com

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First Resort

02.07.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

From secondary season to fully-fledged collections in their own right, this past year’s fashion cycle has all been about the rise of resort. Offering the ideal transition from autumn to summer, as well as designers an opportunity to prolong their retail exposure, the season has once and for all stepped out of its main collection sister’s shadow.

From Chloé’s countryside romanticism to Givenchy’s downtown gypsy look, Twin chooses our favourite not-so-in-between collections of the season…

Alexander Wang

Wang’s aesthetic has increasingly matured since his prolific rise and this collection was a clear departure from those tank top and knit beanie days.

The designer still kept his downtown cool thanks to streamlined sleeveless puffa jackets and midriff-baring vests in patent and croc leather, but by offsetting them with front-pleated, pegged trousers and refined chiffon dresses, the looks went from everyday casual to New Yorker chic.

 

Celine

Every season, through the slightest tweak of a silhouette or colour alteration, Phoebe Philo manages to conjure up a new line of fashion must-haves.

Progressing from her sportswear influenced A/W 12 showing, this collection was a combination of relaxed silhouettes such as wide-legged trousers and leather jumper/jogger combos, but added that typical Celine elegance through geometric prints, clean lines and a largely black and white-colour palette.

 

Chloé

Chloé designer Clare Waight Keller headed to the country for this collection, but those expecting Little House On The Prairie type looks are in for a big surprise.

Instead Keller took the best inspirations of rural life – think pale skye blue and neutrals, ethnic prints and crochet patterns – and infused it into the brand’s laid back romantic DNA, resulting in lightweight harem trousers, smock dresses,  waist-tie tops and scallop-edged shorts made for a summer in the city.

 

Christian Dior

An appropriate mix of historical references and contemporary elegance, these looks found their strength in the house of Dior’s archetypal look.

Classical waist-cinching shift dresses and tops with peplum hems were paired with cropped straight leg trousers and romantic knife-pleated chiffon skirts, whilst leather accents gave the whole collection a strikingly modern feel.

 

Givenchy

Presented in a street style photography approach, Riccardo Tisci fused strong tailoring with paisley and geometric prints for an urban bohemian look.

Leather and motif-printed capes stood alongside more relaxed silhouettes of harem trousers and silk shift dresses for a look that was truly Givenchy, but as always, has something new to bring to the table.

 

Proenza Schouler

Round-shouldered tweed jackets and capes, bleached slim cut jeans, low-slung flares, satin tuxedo trousers and laser cut neon cocktail dresses – this season Proenza Schouler offered the complete wardrobe for their brand’s cosmopolite cool audience.

With colours ranging from cream to ultramarine to pistachio, this was a collection that could go from day to endless night.

 

Stella McCartney

McCartney’s multifarious resort showing included sheer overlay pleated skirts, fringe tassel lace dresses, golden brocade print cap sleeve and short as well as bubblegum pink blazer and neon orange kick flare trousers combos.

Accessorised with sunshine yellow pointed toe platform pumps and holographic clutches, this collection made us that bit more excited for the summer.

 

 

Theyskens’ Theory

How to turn the essentials into something intriguing appeared to be the question on Olivier Theyskens’ mind this season. His answer ticked all the right boxes: oversized blazers were given an oil painting slick appearance thanks to silver velvet and watercolour-esque prints, shimmering lurex T-shirts and jumpers gained nighttime appeal and the tried but true boyfriend jean was fitted with just the right amount of slouch. Who said basic had to be boring?

 

 

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Caste Adrift

29.06.2012 | Art , Blog | BY:

The irrationality of racial prejudice is at the centre of Leah Gordon’s new photographic work Caste.  The artist who has worked in Haiti for many years has created a series of photographs based upon the coldly colour based measuring system created by a man called Moreau de St Mercy in Eighteenth-century colonial Haiti.

The French colonialist, who lived in Haiti during the slave plantation period created a surreal and unstomachable taxonomy of race that sought to place the colour of skin in order of superiority, running from Blanche to Noir, with all kinds of de St Mercy’s imaginative name stretches in-between.

On discovering this history of categorisation, Gordon’s response was to cast herself at one end and her partner, Andre Eugene, a Haitian sculptor, at the other end.  The result, Caste, in effect topples the boundaries put up between people and their relationships. The use of Eighteenth-century clothing invokes a feeling of detachment from the past while also ridiculing those lingering prejudices towards colour and skin.

Twin spoke to the artist about her new work…

How did you come across Moreau de St Mercy’s system?
I first read about the system in a book about Haitian culture and history called ‘Haiti, History and the Gods’ by Joan Dayan.

What was your immediate response to it?
Firstly an interest in following up the roots of the florid use of language. How the use of the exotic and mythologoical language became a surreal smokescreen for a more sinister and divisive system. After that I started exploring the taboos surrounding mixed race relationships too.

Where are you from originally?
Ellesmere Port, Merseyside.

What caused you to become so involved with Haiti, personally and professionally?
The way in which history feels so alive and vibrant in Haiti and how the re-telling of that history is rooted through sub-altern cultural expression.

What’s the legacy of colonialism in Haiti today?
Haiti lives with more of a legacy of post colonialism. It was the first post-colonial state in the western hemisphere. Haiti has been punished economically, through lack of direct trading, and culturally, through a systematic demonisation of its religion, as a punishment for the audacity and might of the slaves revolt.

What reactions have you had to Caste?
I’m still not sure. I think it will be a while before reactions start filtering back to me. I have had a great response from the Haitian artistic community.

What are your plans creatively for the future?
To document British folk culture further and explore its relationship with nature, history and material objects.

Leah Gordon: Caste is at Riflemaker, London until 14 July 2012.

riflemaker.org

 

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Smoke and Mirrors

28.06.2012 | Art , Blog | BY:

This summer, Irving Penn’s masterful Cigarettes series will be displayed in its entirety for the first time ever at Hamiltons Gallery, London. Although Penn is probably most renowned for his photographs of famous fashion models and iconic figures, he was also equally as accustomed to shooting various forms of still life – in this case, discarded cigarette butts found on the streets of New York in the early Seventies. By printing the Cigarettes using the Platinum palladium process, an extremely difficult and costly photographic technique, Penn advanced the status of these objects from unwanted garbage to treasured rarities.

Either arranged as singular objects or clustered in groups, the image composition remains relatively minimal, however the depth and density of the tone applied to these black and white shots highlight subtle details, features and textures which otherwise would go a miss.

All of Penn’s pictures are created with a great attention to detail and the extreme magnification applied here means this series is no exception; every burnt edge, rip and fold in the delicate paper is meticulously captured as are the stray strands of loose tobacco that sprout out at the butt ends like wiry whiskers.

Another focus is the branding that is stamped onto each cigarette; even after being smoked, stubbed out, stepped on and subsequently weathered in Manhattan’s gutters, the marks of Tobacco industry giants such as Marlboro, Camel and Chesterfield are still evidently fulfilling their intended commercial purpose.

All 26 photographs from the Cigarettes series are available to view now until 17 August at Hamiltons Gallery, 13 Carlos Place, London.

hamiltonsgallery.com

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Spread The Word

27.06.2012 | Blog , Culture | BY:

As part of the continuing 2012 Olympiad festivities, this week London’s Southbank Centre is hosting Poetry Parnassus; a celebratory gathering of poets, rappers, storytellers and singers from around the globe.  Scheduled are over a hundred events and activities, (many of which are free) generating Britain’s largest poetry festival to date.

Made-to-order poems will be available for the “literary-starved” at the Poetry Takeaway, whilst the Emergency-Poet Ambulance will be on call for private poetic health consolations, offering remedies and prescriptions in the form of ‘curing’ poems, verses and lyrics.

Numerous spoken and written word artists from over two hundred countries will be participating in the festival, fronting reading-marathons and recitals as well as discussions on political topics that are often the inspiration and stimulus behind their work.

Poetry Parnassus is on now until Sunday 1st July at The Southbank Centre, London.
For tickets visit southbankcentre.co.uk

 

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Open House

26.06.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

It’s been a busy month for House of Hackney; as well as setting up a summer residency within the walls of Liberty, June also sees the launch of their debut clothing line. The omnipotent interiors company have joined forces with US fashion giant, Opening Ceremony, whom we just can’t get enough of right now, to turn their beautiful and bold homeware prints into ready to wear.

Antiqued leopard spots and the brand’s signature ‘Dalston Rose’ design are placed onto a selection of baby doll dresses, oversized knits and high-waisted shorts to name a few. Business partners and HoH founders, Frieda Gormley and Javvy M Royle both hail from fashion backgrounds, so it is no surprise that next season the pair plan to take the fashion element of their business to the next level with the launch of a menswear capsule collection. The current womenswear collection is available to buy in Opening Ceremony stores and from the House of Hackney website now.

houseofhackney.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Twin Guest Edit X Julia Frakes – Three Quick Questions with Kate Foley

25.06.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

They say two heads are better than one and we agree. Kicking off our Twin Guest Edit series is fashion writer, model, stylist and all-around wünderkind Julia Frakes. Having run her blog Bunny Bisous since 2007, the Pennsylvania-native has written for publications such as Paper and Dossier Journal, been photographed by the likes of Annie Leibovitz and Cass Bird, and styled Rachel Antonoff’s RTW collections. All accomplished by the tender age of 22, she is also currently completing her degree in psychology.

Read on for the first of her Three Quick Questions interviews…

As the buyer for retail Mecca, Opening Ceremony, Kate Foley holds both the keenest eye and one of the most enviable jobs in the industry.

While fashion followers may first recognise Kate by her effortless and oft-emulated street style, within the field she is also known for her inspiring warmth and rallying work-ethic as part of Opening Ceremony’s team.

In the midst of the hectic Resort 2013 week, Kate and I grabbed a quick coffee for a light-hearted Q&A in the garden behind Saturdays Surf NYC, just around the corner from the Opening Ceremony Headquarters.

As well as her resort buying duties, Kate is abuzz in planning Opening Ceremony’s London boutique launch in time for the 2012 Summer Olympic Games.

It was a true thrill to discover a bit about what makes Kate tick…

Julia Frakes: How did your childhood in England influence your style philosophy today?

Kate Foley: I grew up in a small village in the English Countryside and the selection of clothing stores in the local town was limited, to say the least. I think this really taught me to shop well and it challenged me to be creative.

There were some times when I would go to London to get something special, though; so I would supplement this with flea market finds, home-made bits, and simpler, classic pieces. I guess my style today still reflects that: I tend to find a special piece and then mix it with simpler pieces from my wardrobe. This way I feel interesting but also relaxed and comfortable… which is so important to me. There is nothing better or sexier than when a woman is totally comfortable and looks effortless.

JF: Opening Ceremony… London Olympics… 2012. We are all psyched-beyond-words by all of the potential collaborations and rumours that have been floating about. Of the various OC summer projects in the pipeline, can you perhaps shed some light on those that particularly jazz your game?

KF: I’m beyond excited about the London store opening. I’m British and it feels like such a big deal that there will be an Opening Ceremony in my home country. There are so many exciting, special collaborations in the works for the new store. We have Proenza [Schouler] and Delfina Delettrez making these amazing special pieces for us… all of which I’m dying to get my hands on.

We have a super-cool collaboration with adidas Originals (the lookbook shot by Josh Olins can be viewed online [at Twin] already!), a special Opening Ceremony London collection which I really, really love, and we will also be launching a Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony collection filled with all our favourite pieces from the past, which, yes, is super exciting. There are so many other projects that will be in the London store… but you will have to wait for the opening for those!

JF: So, just for kicks: if you were commissioned to design a Bearbrick-type figurine Twin for HRM Queen Elizabeth II, how would you style it (or her)?

KF: She would have to be wearing a single chain of pearls, small stud pearl earrings, this Christopher Kane Metallic Floral Brocade two-piece and a Maison Michel Straw Bibi Cat headpiece [see images].

All portraits by Bill Gentle for Backyard Bill

 

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Top Of The Class

22.06.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Every year, a new line of fashion design graduates break out of the university halls and into the daunting fashion industry. Marking this accession to independence is Graduate Fashion Week, a congregation of final year students from the UK and abroad.

Twin headed to the four-day event to discover our generation’s next fashion protégés…

The beauty in darkness is still as strong as ever judging by Natalie Martin’s – Birmingham City University – graduate designs. Although her colour palette was comprised of somber khaki, black and faded mauve shades, Martin’s sheer panelling, metallic accents and floaty chiffon skirts added just the right touch of gloomy romanticism.

Olivia Salmon’s – UCA Rochester – collection beckoned to the little girl in all of us. As much as we love being strong and steadfast women, sometimes you just want to let your hair down, grab a bouquet of baby’s breath and carelessly wander through green fields forever in hand-painted silk A-line dresses.

Northumbria University’s Rebecca Byer struck just the right balance in contrast with her looks of oversized chunky knits and voluminous Mongolian fur-trimmed coats paired with delicate gold chain shorts and finely draped jersey and velvet gowns.

Eve Jones – Manchester Metropolitan University School of Art – created a collection for the woman somewhere in between the country club and metropolis. While polo shirts, lightweight sheer fabrics, knife pleated skirts and a dash of tennis ball yellow made an ode to all things preppy, her addition of leather biker gilets and perforated shorts kept the whole feel of the collection smooth rather than stuffy.

Claire Rushby – University of Salford – also decided to take on an athletic theme with her collection, however this interpretation would be more at home in the disco than on the tennis court. Think metallic lamé fabrics, round pleated shoulder details wafting as the wearer strides across the dance floor and breathable mesh fabrics to keep your club cool.

E L Pattern – De Montfort University – wood sculpture accessorised collection was one big play on geometrics. Blazers were sliced with accurate precisions whilst fuchsia and orange single piping on all white trousers continued the disciplined theme. But thanks to the addition of sheer overlays and flatteringly cut sheath dresses, the looks were polished and refined, not harsh.

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Blue Is The Colour

21.06.2012 | Blog , Twin Video | BY:

Head to the home of Sunday League in trailer trash denim, cornflower print bandeaus and second-skin drainpipes. Come summer bestenorskecasinos.com you”ll be the centre of the sporting world.

Photography: Tung Walsh
Styling: Naomi Miller

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The Immaculate Collection

21.06.2012 | Blog , Twin Video | BY:

Far from demure, white-on-white is the straight up, statement hue of the season.

Photography: Ben Weller
Styling: Naomi Miller

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