Twin Playlist X SoKo

28.03.2012 | Blog , Music | BY:

French sweetheart, actress and musician, Stephanie Sokolinski makes emotionally charged and soul searching songs her way. With her debut album I Thought I Was An Alien out now, Twin asked SoKo, to name the nine songs that are important to her…

1/ The Wire: Outdoor Miner
My favourite punk song. It gives me motivation when I”m down. It makes me want to make music!

2/ Youth Lagoon: Afternoon
Afternoon song. I”ve listened to this album so much since it got out. Instant crush kind of music that makes me feel peaceful that makes me travel.

3/ PJ Harvey: The Last English Rose
Favourite track off her new album. I”ve listened to that song on repeat so much! It makes me wanna dance and shout in a mic and wake up in a good mood !

4/ The Shivers: Beauty
So much beauty. The song I wish I wrote. The song I wish someone wrote for me. The feelings I wish someone would have for me.

5/ Talking Heads: Road to Nowhere
My favourite morning song. A smile on my face all day is almost guaranteed if I wake up with Talking Heads!

 6/ Kings of Convenience: Winning the Battle, Losing the War
These harmonies…these words…breaks my heart.

7/ My Morning Jacket: Hopefully
“Hopefully it occurs to me that there”s one thing I cant stand. That”s the thought of a single day, without your head in my hand.” Perfect lyrics, perfect love song. My Morning Jacket”s always touch my heart.

8/ Kurt Vile: My Sympathy
Kurt Vile is the one artist I”ve listened to the most this year. I can never get sick of his amazing finger picking…voice.. melodies…lyrics…

9/ Cass McCombs: Full Moon or Infinity
Cass McCombs is the one person I wish I could do music with. This song is the most comforting song I can think of listening to.

Listen to Soko”s playlist

soko.com

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The Duffy Diaries

27.03.2012 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

From portraits to reportage and award-winning advertisements to Pirelli calendars, the images of Brian Duffy are an iconic documentation of decades past. Now the Proud Chelsea gallery is making a tribute to the photography legend, who passed away in 2010, by displaying a rare collection of his signed prints.

Starting his career in the Fifties as a freelance photographer for Harper’s Bazaar, Duffy went on to photograph the likes of Jean Shrimpton, John Lennon and David Bowie, most memorably for the cover of his Aladdin Sane album.

Duffy, alongside David Bailey and Terence Donovan – nicknamed the Terrible Trio by British press – innovated the style of documentary fashion photography by capturing the zeitgeist of Swinging London in the Sixties.

After making the decision to abandon still photography, the English photographer and film producer famously attempted to burn all of his negatives in 1979. Fortunately, a few priceless artifacts remain, making this exhibition both a poignant photographic homage and an unmissable visual experience.

Duffy: The Lost Portraits is on display until May 13 at Proud Chelsea, 161 King”s Road  London SW3 5XP.

duffyphotographer.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Dirt Disco

26.03.2012 | Blog , Music | BY:

If you aren’t already listening to Grimes, then it’s time to catch up. The 23-year-old Montreal based musician, aka Claire Boucher, blurs the lines between singer and producer by making and recording her own records. Delivering influences from lullabies to Nicki Minaj through her lisping four octave range voice, Grimes whispers of vulnerability but is powerfully mesmerising.

Totally committed to the creative process, for her fourth record offering, Visions, Boucher blacked out the windows and merged night with day for three weeks. Oblivion, featuring a compulsively watchable video by Emily Kai Bock, is a floor-filling pop song with shadowy undertones. We love her strong brows and free-spirit style. Look out for Grimes in Twin’s new issue next month.

grimesmusic.com

 

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LBJ Forever

23.03.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

One jacket, a multitude of stars. That’s the premise behind Chanel’s new Little Black Jacket exhibition at Toyko’s G-building in Aoyama. Featuring over a hundred beautiful and talented faces from the fashion jet set, styling out one timeless Chanel tweed jacket in their individual way, this is about icons wearing an icon.

The exhibition is an exciting preview for Chanel’s new book The Little Black Jacket: Chanel’s Classic Revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld which hits bookstores this autumn. While the images are chic in the Chanel way its adoring public demands, the project is a testament to the star pulling power of the fashion house and the endurance of great fashion design.

Featuring Chanel perennials like Laetitia Casta to striking characters such as jeweller and actor Waris Ahluwalia this is more than just an ode to feminine elegance, it’s a document of modern style culture right now.

Little Black Jacket is at G-building, Tokyo until 15 April 2012
chanel.com

 

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Twin Loves LV X MJ

22.03.2012 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

“Necessity is the mother of all invention” So goes the saying, and so it was that in 1858, trunk packer Louis Vuitton innovated a stackable luggage trunk to ease transportation of the prodigious wardrobes of travelling madams et mademoiselles. In doing so, the wheels were set in motion for a brand now estimated to be worth over $19 billion.

Those wheels are turning faster than ever over a century later, under the skilled tutorship of Marc Jacobs. The brand and its designer, whose signature sense of irreverence and fun has seen models arrive on the catwalk via a full-size carousel and most recently, a moving locomotive engine – complete with steam – are now the subject of a new exhibition: Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs.

Two floors of the Louvre’s Musee des Arts Decoratifs, have been dedicated to exhibiting the French luggage icon and its Artistic Director since 2007. “Marc always starts with the bag”, says curator Pamela Golbin of Jacobs’ approach to each collection, and all 53 bags he has designed for LV are among the exhibits – which include those original

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trunks – displayed in a larger-than-life “chocolate box”.

His exceptional brand vision is behind such successful collaborations as those with artists Stephen Sprouse in 2001 and Takashi Murakami in 2003 – the resulting bags creating waiting lists that took the idea of an ‘it’ bag to a whole new level.

If you find yourself in Paris between now and September and have more than a passing interest in art or fashion, don’t miss it.

Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs is at Musee des Arts Decoratifs until 16 september 2012. The official book of the exhibition by curator, Pamela Golbin, is published by Rizzoli in April.

Words by Aja Wallis

lesartsdecoratifs.fr

 

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Mind Matters

21.03.2012 | Art , Blog , Culture | BY:

The residence of Sigmund Freud serves as a fitting space to showcase the work of sculptor Louise Bourgeois, whose exhibition The Return of the Repressed explores her thirty years of ambivalent attachment to psychoanalysis.

As an artist who drew on her childhood experiences, French-American Bourgeois was primed to blossom in the Fifties, but her path was impeded by the precipitous domination of abstract expressionism, spearheaded by the ‘macho’ art of Jackson Pollock and Mark Rothko.  Subsequently, only four commissions for one-woman shows between 1953 and 1978 followed.

Her surrealist artistry with its lack of signature style and use of materials including meat, wood and latex rubber, was completely divergent to the idealism of classical sculpture.

She remained on the periphery because the art world found her profound technique and emotionally fragile inner world difficult to negotiate and comprehend.

Nonetheless, in 1982, at the age of 70, Louise Bourgeois, the artist who utilised her visceral pain to awaken a higher state of consciousness in the viewer, was given a retrospective by the Museum of Modern Art in New York; thereby embracing this gloriously fearless late bloomer with mainstream acclaim which had eluded her for so long.

Louise Bourgeois: The Return of the Repressed is at the Freud Museum until  27th May 2012

Words by Dawn Daniels

freud.org.uk

Top Image copyright Irving Penn

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The Stitch Up

20.03.2012 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

Inge Jacobsen uses embroidery, cutting, and collaging to create new images out of magazine fashion editorial and newspaper imagery.

As well as a response to the mass of imagery that makes up the modern world, her work comments on the way the female body is used as a commercial object. Intricate, time consuming and unique, her craft ruptures the gloss and glamour of the fashion world to create something lasting.

The 25-year-old’s work will be on show at the SHOWstudio shop as part of their Selling Sex exhibition from Thursday.

Twin spoke to the artist about her work…

What came first for you, art or craft?
Art. I was very interested in drawing and painting before I started university and I still do it from time to time. I spent much of my childhood and teenage years painting, and I originally wanted to be a painter.

When and why did you first apply embroidery to images of women?
When I started studying Fine Art at Kingston University in 2006. We were encouraged to think outside the box and explore ideas rather than specific techniques, so there was a lot of freedom to do as you pleased with your work. It was difficult at the beginning because I was surrounded by all of these incredibly talented and creative people, so I found it hard to create anything original.

I stated collecting fashion magazines knowing that I wanted to work with that sort of imagery, I just needed a way to intervene into them. I had found some embroidery pieces from my school days in Denmark when I was moving to university and thought that that would be a great method to use.

Your work has been embraced by the fashion industry – how important is it to you  to keep your point of view undiluted by commercial projects?
Well I’m incredibly stubborn, so I find it quite easy. I don’t mind doing commercial projects if I think they will complement my ideas, such as the one I did with the Georg Jensen campaign. That worked for me because they have a long traditional craft based history (silversmiths) and a lot of their pieces are still made by hand in Denmark. I felt this was important because my work is handmade by me and it is a very traditional craft embroidery. I am happy to do commercial projects as long I don’t feel like I’m compromising the bases of my work and ideas.

 

 

What challenges does having feminist sensibilities, but also enjoying fashion, pose for you?
I think the two can work very well together. It can be difficult at times to distinguish whether women are being empowered or exploited but it certainly isn’t a not a black and white issue. I love the clothes but I often have an issue with the size of the models. They seem to be getting younger and skinnier and its not a great look in my opinion.

Clothes and fashion can help some women, and men, feel empowered but magazines and other imagery from that industry can also be great at making you feel awful about yourself. It does set unrealistic standards on ‘real’ women which I do find frustrating. The same is true for some types of porn, particularly those made by large industries. I was sad to learn that the only three industries where women earn more than men is in pornography, prostitution and modelling. We need to do better than this as a society.

What fashion designers do you admire as artists?
Christopher Bailey because he has done such a brilliant job at Burberry and Miuccia Prada because Miu Miu and Prada always make me smile with their bright colours and quirky designs.

Can you tell me a bit about your participation in the Selling Sex exhibition for ShowStudio?
The exhibition is made up of female artists and is really a look at how male gendered our visual culture is. The gallery contacted me and asked if I would like to include some of my stitched porn illustration in the show and any other work that I felt would contribute to the theme of the exhibition.

I was so flattered to be included and have my work next to such great artists. The subject is also one that is very important to me as a woman and as an artist. It is refreshing for stitching and embroidery to be displayed as equals to painting and sculpture because, like many crafts, it is so often mistaken for a lower form of art and people need to understand that that is not the case.

How long does one of your ‘covers’ take on average to complete?
You know, I get asked this a lot, and I can see why people are interested considering how intricate some of the pieces are, but honestly, I don’t keep track of the time. It all depends on how detailed an image is and how big it is. Sometimes I’ll start working on a piece and then leave it for days without touching it, so it’s hard to keep track of time. I have said 30- 50 hours in the past but I think it’s more around the 20 hour mark now that I’ve become quicker at it.

What’s next for you?
I am currently working with photographer Rebecca Thomas and using a series of her images. I’m also experimenting with different type of stitch to create a paint like effect, with stitches that resemble brush strokes.

Selling Sex opens on March 22 and runs until June 1 at SHOWstudio Shop, 1-9 Bruton Place, London

ingejacobsen.com

 

 

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Fashion Seniors

19.03.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Ari Seth Cohen’s blog, Advanced Style, has always been a standout in the online world thanks to its mantra of “capturing the sartorial savvy of the senior set”.

A fresh departure from the often youth-orientated direction of most street style blogs, Cohen’s documentation of the timelessly stylish 60 years plus crowd has garnered him a cult following, so the news that his photographs are soon to be released in book form is sure to please both young and old.

With over 200 images of eccentric elderlies and interviews by the likes of Dita Von Teese, Advanced Style proves that aging doesn’t mean having to compromise. After all, like Yves Saint Laurent once said: fashions fade, style is eternal.

Advanced Style by Ari Seth Cohen is out May 22, published by powerHouse books.

advancedstyle.blogspot.co.uk
powerhousebooks.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Street Snapper

16.03.2012 | Blog , Culture , Fashion | BY:

In recent years, film has fallen in love with fashion. An industry packed full of eccentric characters just waiting to be shot to stardom, fashion is a goldmine of entertainment. Moviegoers flocked to see the September Issue and Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel is just one of a few films in the cinema pipeline.

This weekend though, UK fashion lovers can finally catch the joyous Bill Cunningham New York, one year after its release in the US. A street-style veteran and innovator, Cunningham was at the forefront of photographing real people in their clothes donkey’s years before the blogosphere erupted.

With his crumpled slacks, cheap waterproof, bicycle and film SLR, the octogenarian has dedicated more than three decades to filling the pages of the New York Times with street style.

Famously eleusive, it took eight years to make him agree to the documentary, but it was worth the wait. Bill Cunningham New York introduces the man behind the lens, along with a few fashion legends such as Anna Wintour and Michael Kors. More interesting though are the quirky characters that make up Cunningham’s life with in the artist’s apartments of Carnegie Hall.

To look at Cunningham’s work is to explore the fashion jungle that is New York. As he says, “The best fashion show is on the street. It always has been and always will be.”

Bill Cunningham New York is in UK cinemas from today

billcunninghamnewyork.co.uk

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China Lady

15.03.2012 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

Heavily manipulated images with an exaggerated sense of reality form the signature style of Chinese fashion photographer Chen Man.

Since shooting her first cover for Chinese avant-garde style magazine, Vision, Man’s work has gained increasing recognition. Having worked with brands such as Adidas and Nike, she’s most recently collaborated with MAC cosmetics. The Chen Man range, subtitled Love & Water, is described as a ‘bold, sensual and lyrical colour collection’, based around her fascination for love and water, represented by pink and blue.

The ascendancy of Man’s star coincides with China’s own  as a burgeoning economic powerhouse. In forging her own path, Man’s bold, innovative style has been credited with inspiring a visual revolution in China.

For her first UK solo exhibition, Mans photography collates modern Chinese city landscapes with ancient architecture, which provide a backdrop to explore the assorted themes of science fiction, consumerism and popular culture.

Despite the complex and myriad layers of post-production employed to control and manipulate the finished product, the natural beauty and poise of her models forces its way through her art. Otherworldly and eccentric Man’s imagery reflects an obsession with perfection and the impossibility of many beauty aesthetics.

The Chen Man exhibition is showing at the Chinese Arts Centre, Manchester until 7th April

chinese-arts-centre.org

Words by Dawn Daniels

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Stateside Style

15.03.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Las Vegas is getting a taste of English high street style in the form of the recently opened Topshop flagship store in its Fashion Show Mall.

Ever since its founding in 1964, Topshop has forged a reputation as the go-to place for the latest in English contemporary style. The recent appointment of ex-Vogue Fashion Director Kate Phelan as Topshop’s Creative Director has only made the brand more fashion-tastic.

While we can’t get enough of the brand here in the UK, the same can be said for tastes across the pond. Country borders notwithstanding, it looks like UK style is a universal language.

topshop.com

Women of Wisdom

14.03.2012 | Art , Blog , Thoughts | BY:

Currently on show at the KK Outlet, Words of Wisdom is the second exhibition from the W Project. Launched to coincide with International Women’s Day with the noble aim of celebrating, connecting and inspiring women across the creative industries, Loren Platt and Teo Connor asked a mix of female talent to contribute an answer on a postcard to the question – what are your words of wisdom?

On Saturday night they also held a symposium dinner where filmmakers Quentin Jones and Kathryn Ferguson spoke about their work and Rhonda and Lulu of the Darkroom enlightened and inspired guests by telling the story of starting out and setting up their beautiful shop on Lamb’s Conduit Street. All round wise words and wisdom from creative women. Thank you W Project.

For more information on W Project events visit thewproject.co.uk

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Twin Playlist X Kool Thing

13.03.2012 | Blog , Culture , Music | BY:

It was while Dubliner Julie Chance was DJing in a Paris dive bar in 2010 that she encountered Australian Jon Dark. Bonding over shared musical sensibilities, they exchanged records and ideas before booking flights to Berlin and their musical project kool thing was born.

Pulling together musical references from grunge to prog rock, kool thing blends atmospheric synths with new wave bass. Their singe EP Light Games was released earlier this year and they’re currently working on a full-length album.

Twin asked Chance to name her favourite nine tracks right now…

1/ Sinéad O”Connor – Black Boys On Mopeds
Sinéad has a new album out called How About I Be Me (And You Be You) and it”s brilliant. Being born and bred in Dublin I had to include Sinéad. Always outspoken and a head of her time, one of my all time heroines. This song is an oldie but a goodie from the 1990 album I Do Not Want What I Haven”t Got.

2/ Elliott Smith – Angeles
I was first introduced to Elliott Smith when I was visiting New York some years ago. The rawness of his lyrics and the frailty of his voice struck a chord deep inside me that has stayed with me ever since.

3/ The Smiths – Reel Around The Fountain
Probably one of my favourite bands of all time. Enough said. This is the first song off their first album.

4/ Nick Drake – River Man
While studying photography in Cork I was introduced to Nick Drake by a classmate. I”ve always had a penchant for a sombre song and Nick Drake delivered them in abundance. I fell in love with him instantly.

5/ Judee Sill – The Kiss
An ex-girlfriend got me into Judee Sill a few years ago. Judee Sill wrote the most beautiful bewitching songs and could have been as big as Nick Drake if she had been recognised more but wasn”t for whatever reasons. Her life ended prematurely due to drug addiction and we are left with only two albums. This song is from the 1973 album Heart Food.

6/ Amy Winehouse – Love Is A Losing Game
Another one of my heroines, we lost Amy last summer and she broke my heart along with millions of others. In 2008 students at Cambridge University were asked in their final  exams to compare the lyrics of Love Is A Losing Game with Shakespeare, Sir Walter Raleigh, Milton and Wordsworth for literary analysis. This YouTube vid is of her performing the song at the Other Voices Festival in Dingle, Ireland in 2006.

7/ This Mortal Coil – Sixteen Days/Gathering Dust
I don”t even know where I got this from but I have it on vinyl now and I always include it in my DJ sets. I love Cocteau Twins and Elizabeth Fraser”s vocal on this is just haunting.

8/ Trust – Candy Walls
Moving firmly into the present now, our friend Maya Postepski from Austra just dropped her new album from her other project Trust and I”m really into this track, Candy Walls, its so good!

9/ Lower Dens – Brains
Lower Dens have a new album coming out in May I think. I loved the first one so I”m pretty excited about the next. This song is from the forthcoming album.

Listen to Kool Thing”s playlist koolthingmusic.com

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The Burton Reign

12.03.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

It’s been two years since Sarah Burton was appointed creative director of Alexander McQueen. Since then, her success at the label has been nothing short of a phoenix rising from the ashes.

Following the tragic and sudden loss of Lee McQueen, his design assistant for over 14 years was immediately thrust into the large gap that the English enfant terrible of fashion had left. Aside from the mourning of such a close friend, the expectations on Burton to continue his legacy were another heavy burden for the Manchester-born designer to carry.

But rather than crumble under the pressure, she excelled. From the delicate, earth motherly collection for Spring/Summer 2011 with which she made her debut to the futuristically astounding designs for this season, Burton has stepped out of the shadow of Lee McQueen to become a distinguishable design talent in her own right. Here is a woman who unarguably embeds the label’s DNA into every piece, but has considerably lightened up the overall feel of every collection from the at times dark and tortured soul that we knew and loved about the late designer’s collections to something softer, but equally breathtaking.

There is not just her accomplishments at the main line label to praise: having debuted the brand’s diffusion line McQ on the runway in a military

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and forest-inspired show this London Fashion Week, as well as establishing its first standalone boutique in the capital, Burton isn’t just continuing the brand founded by her mentor, she is reviving it. Managing to guide the label from a desolate tragedy into a bright future, it’s safe to say that Lee McQueen wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.

alexandermcqueen.com
m-c-q.com

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The WOW Factor

09.03.2012 | Blog , Culture , Thoughts | BY:

If you haven’t already, head down to the Southbank Centre and check out the Women of the World festival. For the second year running, Artistic Director Jude Kelly has put together a rich and inspiring schedule of readings, talks and performances.

“Throughout history, many women’s achievements have gone unnoticed or unsung,” says Kelly. “I created WOW to celebrate the formidable power of women to make change happen, to remind us of our history, to draw attention to injustice, to enjoy each other’s company and to encourage men to add their support as we set out to achieve a fairer world.”

With events featuring names such as Natasha Walter, Bidisha, Emeli Sande and Annie Lennox, we reckon it’ll be pretty difficult to ignore the female talent busting out of the Royal Festival Hall this weekend.

Southbank Centre’s Women of the World Festival is on until March 11th 2012. For the full schedule of events visit southbankcentre.co.uk/wow

 

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A Question Of Choice

09.03.2012 | Blog , Culture | BY:

In a world dominated by endless choice, sometimes the hardest decision can be deciding between one or the other. Enter Mélanie Crété’s highly addictive Tumblr blog, This or That.

Ranging from the age old question of Audrey versus Marilyn to Ferrero Rocher versus Mon Chéri, in Crété’s online world, everything boils down to the idea of a simple choice. We sat down with the digital marketing and social media manager to talk about the idea behind her blog, print versus digital and to play a round of This or That Twin style…


What prompted you to start This or That?
I have always been a bit obsessed with DIY collages and mood boards. Then Myspace came in and I discovered the joy of Photobucket while trying to teach myself photoshop and basic html, which I guess lead the way to This or That. When I started working in digital marketing and social media four years ago, I spent days researching blogs, organising them by theme in a very anal way and got completely hooked on Tumblr which I decided was the perfect platform to showcase my very messy iPhoto library. The concept somehow came very instinctively, the name came from the fact that I actually never know when to use ‘this’ or ‘that’ (I’m from Paris).

What is your main source of image inspiration?
Tumblr. My favourites are When Hearts Are Young and New York City Lights.

When did you first become fascinated with all things digital?
In 2000 when I installed Napster and ICQ on my PC.

How do you see the relationship between print and digital publications developing, will one replace the other?
Nothing will replace anything. I just see digital being integrated in all parts of the process with both digital and print teams working in synergy to produce amazing content and using different formats which is relevant to all platforms, including social media.

You are also a DJ, what are your top five favourite tunes of all time?
I used to DJ—I don’t think you can be good at everything so I had to make choices!
But my favourite tracks at the moment are:
The Pharcyde – Passing Me By
Machinedrum – Van Vogue
ASAP – Peso
Grimes – Oblivion
Mos Def – Auditorium

In the sense of This or That…Blackberry or iPhone?
iPhone.

Either coffee or tea?
Coffee.

Either Bikini Kill or Courtney Love?
Courtney Love.

Either The Rolling Stones or The Beatles?
Rolling Stones.

Either the city or countryside?
City during the week , countryside at the weekend.

Either Eddie or Patsy from Absolutely Fabulous?
Patsy.

Either an exhibition or a concert?
Concert.

thisorthatblog.com
facebook.com/thisorthatblog
twitter.com/melaniecrete

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Ladies’ Day

08.03.2012 | Blog , Thoughts , Twin Life | BY:

Look at your calendar. Today is March 8th. For over 100 years, today is when women across the world come together to celebrate and shout about women and issues affecting women.

Author and journalist Kira Cochrane was the Guardian’s women’s editor from 2006 to 2010. She also edited an anthology of Guardian feminist writing, Women of the Revolution, which is out on paperback today.

Twin caught up with Kira to talk about how things have changed for women…

What did you discover about feminism and the way it’s changed from editing Women of the Revolution?
Looking at the history of feminism over the last forty years, what’s interesting is how many of the issues essentially remain the same, even if they’ve shifted and hopefully improved in the meantime. In the Seventies there was huge concern about sexual violence, abortion rights, equal pay, political representation, and there still is today. Also, the attitudes we have to challenge – in ourselves as much as anyone – stay similar, and there’s something powerful in realising that. One of the pieces I love in the anthology is by Jill Tweedie, from 1971, when she writes that women have to fight “the continual and largely unconscious compulsion to be nice”. I think that message is as relevant as ever!

Can you remember your first meaningful contact with feminism? When and what was it?
It was really the example of my mother. I grew up in a pretty non-political household in Essex – I don’t think my mother’s ever referred to herself as a feminist, and we didn’t have political conversations or anything like that – but it was a really political situation. My father died of a heart attack when I was two, my brother was run over and killed when he was eight and I was six, my younger brother was born with serious learning disabilities, which mean he’ll always have to be looked after, and my mother had a major rift with her family, and stopped talking to them almost thirty years ago.

She’d left school at sixteen, and I’ve watched her, throughout my life, work exceptionally hard to look after me and my brother, as a single mother, often working minimum wage jobs (in the days before there was a minimum wage – so we’re talking REALLY minimal!). That provided a pretty awe-inspiring example of female strength. It impressed on me just how powerful women can be, and also how important it is for us to have financial and emotional independence, and a society that values women’s work, while supporting people of both sexes, all backgrounds, when they’re hit by circumstances beyond their control.

What are the main issues affecting women’s rights today that particularly provoke you?
What still really shocks me is the high incidence of rape and sexual assault – and the low incidence of convictions on those charges. I’m as enraged as ever by that.

 Have you perceived a change in the way women will identify as feminist in recent years?
Over the past five or ten years it seems the number of young women identifying as feminist has soared – there have been so many great feminist voices appearing online, and I think they’ve underlined how relevant, how current, all these issues still are. I think there was a moment, back in the Ninenties, when there was huge talk of us living in a ‘post-feminist’ age, and women were embarrassed to call themselves feminists, worried they’d be seen as hairy of armpit and dour of personality, but we seem to be beyond that backlash now. I think now too, when we ARE hairy, we’re hairy and proud!

Why is International Women’s Day important?
Obviously, in an ideal world, there would be no need to have a single day set aside for women, but given the issues still facing us, it’s a great opportunity for conversation, activism, performances, campaigning. I became women’s editor of the Guardian in 2006, and there seemed a lot of activity back then, but nothing compared with the explosion of events taking place this year.

What will you be doing on International Women’s Day?
I’ll be interviewing people for a feminist piece I’m writing, and then attending whatever events I can around that. On Friday and Sunday, I’m appearing on panels at the Women of the World festival on London’s Southbank, and I’ll be trying to see as much as I can there too, because it’s a great programme they’ve put together.

 What artists/writers/musicians do you admire for promoting female creativity and issues?
So many! Not all of them would define themselves as feminist, but on the art side, Cindy Sherman, Yayoi Kusama, Yoko Ono, Susan Hiller, the Guerrilla Girls, Alice Neel, Louise Bourgeois, Gillian Wearing. I went to  New York last year, and made a small pilgrimage to see Judy Chicago’s great feminist work, The Dinner Party, on long-term display at the Brooklyn Museum. That’s some proper Seventies feminist goodness!

In terms of writers, Toni Morrison, Alice Walker, Carol Ann Duffy, Jo Shapcott, Maya Angelou, Zadie Smith, Muriel Spark, and Paula Fox. I remember being profoundly moved by Andrea Dworkin’s memoir Heartbreak, and I had never really understood the true meaning of the phrase ‘mind-bending’ until I read Shirley Jackson’s The Haunting of Hill House last year. That last book is extraordinary, as is Jackson’s short story The Lottery, and her final novel, We Have Always Lived in the Castle.

When it comes to musicians, I’d say Nina Simone, Dinah Washington, Billie Holliday, Aretha Franklin, Bjork, Sinead O’Connor, The Breeders and Tina Turner. I love the way Beth Ditto has spoken about her feminism, and I still love the anger and energy of Liz Phair’s 1993 album Exile in Guyville all these years later.

And then there are the women filmmakers – too many good ones to mention them all, but Nicole Holofcener for making truly grown-up films, Kim Longinotto for making intensely powerful documentaries, and Claire Denis for making really startling, beautiful work.

 Which writer would you point young women curious about feminism in the direction of?
I’ve spoken to a lot of women recently who had never really encountered feminism, who have absolutely loved Caitlin Moran’s How to be a Woman, and found it a brilliant introduction to all sorts of ideas. I also think it’s worth checking out Jessica Valenti’s books; Female Chauvinist Pigs by Ariel Levy; and Living Dolls by Natasha Walter. And one of the reasons I had for putting Women of the Revolution together in the first place was to create a book full of serious ideas, and excellent writers, so that people could discover them and decide who they wanted to read more widely. So many women who have inspired me are in there: Susan Brownmiller, Nawal El Saadawi, bell hooks, Gloria Steinem, Joan Smith, to name just a few.

 What are you working on next?
I have about 1500 ideas for feminist articles, so I’m just working my way through those – also, plans for another feminist book, and a couple of novels, so it’s a question, as ever, of working out what there’s time for, and then seeing what sticks!

KIRA COCHRANE is the editor of Women of the Revolution (Guardian Books, £9.99) out today. She is a features writer for the Guardian and co-edited the anthology of women’s journalism, Cupcakes and Kalashnikovs. @KiraCochrane

 

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PFW Round Up

07.03.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

To many, Paris is the city of love. More importantly however, it is the city of fashion, which could not have been made more clear than through the variety of awe-inspiring runway shows this A/W 12 season. Twin recounts our favourite collections of Paris Fashion Week….

Alexander McQueen

Oversized visor/sunglass hybrids, shaggy fur trimming and heeless, leather strap boots were just the tip of the iceberg when it came to Sarah Burton’s extraordinary A/W 12 collection for Alexander McQueen. As always, there was no shortage of craftsmanship and detailing. Victorian ruffle collars, rolled pleating, laser leather cutouts and delicate floral appliques and embroidery heightened the luxury of the alpine white, pale pink, rose lavender and fuchsia pieces.

Despite the collection’s at times very voluminous silhouettes, silver waist-cinching belts and shorter hemlines still let the sensual side of the McQueen woman shine through. With gravity-defying silk chiffon standing away from the body like a sea anemone, intricately reworked velvet bearing floral shapes and marabou feather hems, Burton even managed to add a touch of earth to an otherwordly collection.

Celine

Phoebe Philo’s vision of the Celine woman has always been a modern and streamlined one. This season, she added a dash of athleticism and bold colours to that equation.

The designer’s signature colour palette of black and white was amped up through the addition of azure blue, fuchsia, rose pink, aubergine and vermilion red, while oversized wool coats, double piping on front-pleated trousers and striped crew neck jumpers gave the collection a more casual feel. But in fabrics such as supple leather and fur, each piece still had that unmistakable touch of Celine luxury.

Chalayan

In this collection, intricate prints resembled the hasty stroke of a painter’s brush, and paint Hussein Chalayan did with colours including crimson, teal, camel, tenné, emerald, fluorescent orange and green.

The silhouettes were streamlined in the form of oversized single-button coats, tunics and shift dresses, but always good for the unexpected detail, he added large cutouts, as well as rectangular bands in contrast collars to cinch in pieces at the waist and bust, not to mention reflective silver lamé panelling, trousers and brogues. Whether artistic or futuristic, every piece bore the Chalayan signature.

Chanel

Considering the high value that Karl Lagerfeld has in the fashion industry, it was only a matter of time before he produced a collection inspired by precious stones. If the set design of oversize crystals jutting out of the ground wasn’t hint enough, this season’s Chanel colour palette was all about the emerald greens, amethyst purples, ruby reds, golds, antique silvers and sapphire blues.

Whether interwoven with the house’s signature tweed or sewn into the sleeves, pockets and breast of a flared wool coat dress, Lagerfeld’s chromatic approach this season only heightened the luxury of the gemstone, feather and lace-crafted pieces. Their point of inspiration may date back to the beginning of time, but thanks to a mixture of architecturally sculpted and relaxed silhouettes, every look was pure modernity. Topped off with crystal eyebrows and Perspex-heeled pumps, this collection proved (once again) why Coco and Karl are the perfect match.

Stella McCartney

If anyone still associated the name Stella McCartney with The Beatles before, then this collection broke that bond once and for all. Working with colours of black, cyan, hot pink, charcoal, dark brown and white, it was a milestone in her journey from famous daughter to design star in her own right.

McCartney’s time at Saville Row made its mark in the tailoring of padded hips, oversized, rectangular cuts, and rounded shoulders, giving every piece a strong sense of structuring while offsetting the more feminine elements such as foliage embroidery and curve-tracing colour blocking. Her tribute to English style didn’t stop there: cozy waffle knit cardigans and dresses worn over Oxford button-downs, as well as A-line skirts in fabrics such as tweed, wool, mohair, crepe paid tribute to McCartney’s heritage. Balance being one of her strong suits, hip-slung, wide-legged trousers, streamlined clutchs, and contrast-coloured pumps and ankle boots gave everything an urban twist.

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Big Pictures

06.03.2012 | Art , Blog | BY:

For the past eight years, photographer Tom Craig and writer A.A. Gill have explored the distance between words and pictures by travelling to countries such as Chad and Albania and recording what they see.

Now on show at Flaere Gallery, 20 unseen photographs by Tom Craig with the accompanying text by A.A. Gill assert not only the continued importance of photojournalism, but how a message is augmented by both words and pictures.

From disparate North Sea trawlers to busy tourist vistas in Turkey their collaboration seeks added dimensions while freeing both writer and journalist to convey a place exactly as they observe it. Two views, same scene.

Twin spoke to Tom about his work…

How did you meet AA Gill?
We first met at Heathrow on our way to Chad in 2004 to report on the refugee crisis. There is an image “Portrait of War” in the exhibition that comes from that assignment.

Where did the idea for the collaboration come from?
We’ve since worked together on over 25 assignments over the last eight years for various publications including The Sunday Times and Vanity Fair. It’s been a long-standing idea to present a series of images from our travels in this way to show the way that this collaboration brings writing and photography together in tandem.

Is one photo really worth a 1000 words?
Absolutely.

Was there one particular location that posed a challenge for you photographically?
On every assignment you can travel for days without an event occurring, without any flashpoint, without anything happening out of the ordinary. Life in most countries has a daily routine and tends to take the path of least resistance. At first glance what may seem innocuous  though nearly always has a backstory.

Our job is to capture that backstory; to identify what is interesting, to collect it, to digest it, to report it and from my point of view to try my very best capture it in a solitary image (That’s 125th of one second) and present an image that is as informed as it possibly can be and that is something that is always enhanced by the presence of Adrian.

I can only hope that resulting combination of his crafted comments and my images allow a viewer an insight beneath the skin of a place they may never normally consider.

Is there an experience or memory from over the eight years that stands out from the others?
Two extremes of temperature stand out: Svalbard was the coldest place and Chad was the hottest place I have ever been too.

Have you any other trips planned?
We are going on assignment to Bhutan this Saturday.

The Bigger Picture is at Flaere Gallery until 10th March 2012
flaere.com

Seal Supper, Greenland 2005 © Tom Craig, courtesy Flaere Gallery.

The Day After the Crash, Towton, UK 2008 © Tom Craig, courtesy Flaere Gallery.

The Camera Club, Turkey 2006, UK 2008 © Tom Craig, courtesy Flaere Gallery.

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Polaroid Prince

05.03.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Initially gaining recognition for a collaboration with Dior in 1980, subsequent campaigns for Yves Saint-Laurent and Valentino and covers for Vogue and Vogue Italia have earned Italian photographer Paolo Roversi, a place within fashion’s aristocracy.

His solo exhibition at the Wapping Project – Bankside, allows the viewer compelling insight into Roversi’s methods, in terms of how a basic studio, a deep respect for models and a laid-back artistry translates into elegant compositions.

Shooting on his trademark 8×10 Polaroid film, Roversi produces captivating colours and contrasts, which enrich the unique perspective of each image. His mystical approach to photography, incorporating slow exposures, and instinctive, delicate lighting, reveals a glimpse into the souls of his subjects, culminating in beautiful, alluring portraiture.

His well-honed technique traverses the disciplines of classical painting and photography reminiscent of the Pictorialists with the use of soft focus and special printing processes, while simultaneously creating a subtle aura of mysteriousness.

Images from the monographs Nudi and Studio appear alongside a selection of his muse, Guinevere.

Paolo Roversi is at the Wapping Project Bankside until  31st March 2012
thewappingprojectbankside.com

Words by Dawn Daniels

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