Bright Young Things

06.02.2012 | Blog , Culture | BY:

If London is known for anything as a fashion capital, it’s nurturing and supporting a hotbed of creative talents all across the design spectrum.

For a second year running, Selfridges has selected its Bright Young Things. The project allows 15 newcomers from the worlds of fashion, art, design and food talents to create a window display for its Oxford and Duke Street stores.

With participants this year including womenswear designer/illustrator and CSM graduate Sorcha O’ Raghallaigh, who specialises in intricate metallic coloured and lace designs (Lady Gaga is a fan)  and designer Maarten van der Horst, who gave a new and fashionable life to the otherwise dreaded Hawaiian prints, it’s a testament to the design talents that the Big Smoke has to offer.

For those more interested in non-fashion creativity, interior designer duo Tinker & Tailor have created a Twitter-friendly interactive space, while coffee connoisseur Jack Coleman made his own personal ode to the art of the brewing and roasting.

There’s never been a better reason to stop and take a closer look. Rush hour crowds notwithstanding.

Bright Young Things is on until February 29.
selfridges.com

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Poetic Playlists

03.02.2012 | Art , Blog | BY:

Clinic is one of South East London’s most renowned poetry, music and art collectives. Founded by Sam Buchan-Watts, Andrew Parkes, Rachael Allen and Sean Roy Parker and based in New Cross, the group organises exhibitions, readings and workshops alongside publishing an annual poetry, illustration and photography zine.

The collective’s readings for the V&A’s Selected Poems series, with readers including Liz Berry, Matthew Gregory, Tim Cockburn and Abigail Parry, are now available for listening on the Clinic website.

With titles such as The Age Of Insecurity, Hermione And Frog: Honeymoon Days In The Blue and Google, the playlist is sure to be an entertaining audio experience no matter what your poetic taste.

Listen to Selected Poems — The Recordings here
clinicpresents.com

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Light Fantastic

02.02.2012 | Blog | BY:

As Vice’s former picture editor, curator of online gallery Tiny Vices and snapper for untold fashion magazines, Tim Barber is a prolific image-maker. His new book Untitled Photographs, is a selection of his images taken over the last 15 years and tonight sees the London launch of an exhibition of the images where Barber will also be signing copies.

Held together by no specific theme, his images are poetic plays on light and space. Taking images of everyday experiences, there’s an anonymity to his photographs that hints at stories the viewer can only imagine. Whether it’s a girl teetering over the precipice of New York or an alien smoke puff hanging above a kitchen sink, Barber’s camera intimately and lovingly records moments in life.

Tim Barber: Untitled Photographs exhibition and book signing is tonight at 7pm at Mother, Biscuit Building, 10 Redchurch Street, London, E2 7DD

RSVP Richard@webberrepresents.com
tim-barber.commotherlondon.com

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Lost Voice

31.01.2012 | Art , Blog , Music | BY:

What would you do if a man approached you in the street and asked you to put on his headphones? For 167 out of the 200 people Michael Burdett asked, their response was to listen. What met their ears was a version of Nick Drake’s soaring Cello Song, not heard for over 30 years.

In the Seventies, Burdett was a post-boy at Island Records when he came across a dumped tape intriguingly labelled, “Nick Drake, Cello Song. With love.” It was 20 years before he actually listened to it, discovering an earthy version of Drake’s famed song and another few years passed before he decided what to do with his discovery. Inspiredly, instead of releasing it into the online ether, Burdett  travelled the length and breadth of Britian, stopping some famous people and some not on streets, hills and work places to offer them a chance to hear the song. Each time, he took a portrait of the listener.

The results are now on display at the Idea Generation gallery in East London. The Strange Face Project, takes it’s name from the first line of Cello Song and also refers to the expressions Burdett observed of his listeners and a fitting ode to one of music’s lost talents.

The Strange Face Project is at the Idea Generation gallery until Sunday, February 12.
ideageneration.co.uk

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Fashion’s First Man

30.01.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Few men possess the kind of personal style that can start a female fashion frenzy. But Karl Lagerfeld, the world knows, is no ordinary gentleman. Last Wednesday his Net-A-Porter range, Karl, sparked a global rush for cutaway leather gloves and stiff necked white collars. And thanks to some innovative use of augmented reality pop-up windows, shopping online has never felt so communal. With windows in New York, Paris, Sydney, Berlin and of course Net-A-Porter’s hometown London, this was a truly Twenty-first century collaboration.

While many of the key items sold out in a flash, there are still many covetable pieces, sleeveless biker vests and gladiator sandals for two, that are just a few clicks away from landing on your doormat. If you haven’t already, it’s time to get online with Karl.

net-a-porter.com/karl

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The Haute Roundup

27.01.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Yesterday marked the end of the Spring/Summer 2012 couture shows. The proverbial creme de la creme of fashion, only allowed to show during this three-day short Fashion Week through a Chambre Syndicale De La Haute Couture membership – haute couture doesn’t mean high dressmaking in French for nothing – showed a degree of craftsmanship and attention to detail all across the fashion spectrum.

Twin recounts our haute couture highlights from Paris…

Alexis Mabille

Proving that haute couture doesn’t have to keep to a demure palette, Mabille punched up the colour factor with his neon designs. Inspired by photographs of Lisa Fonssagrives and Christy Turlington, the creations in fabrics ranging from metallic lame to guipure lace proved that even when it comes to couture, girls just want to have fun.

Bouchra Jarrar

Working with crepe de soie, fur collars and wide-legged tailored trousers, Jarrar’s collection was a take on casual luxe. A bit of tomboy and a dash of urban sophisticate resulted in a whole lot of effortless cool.

Chanel

No couture week is complete without Karl Lagerfeld’s latest mind musings. Taking the double Cs to a more ethereal place this time around (airplane runway, anyone?) resulted in a collection of beautifully hand-embellished pieces in icy blues, ivories and midnight blacks.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab is the go-to designer for anything feminine and delicate, and this season was no exception. Lace and crystal embroidery on nude, pastel pink and pale lemon high-waisted dresses and A-line skirts made being a woman that bit more enticing.

Giambattista Valli

It may only be Valli’s second showing on the haute couture circuit, but the Italian designer proves that he can hold his own among fashion’s heavyweights. With a plethora of expertly tailored feather, lace and embroidered pieces, he’s as couture as they come.

Jean Paul Gaultier

In a beehive and winged eyeliner tribute to Amy Winehouse, Gaultier sent out a collection that was every bit as eccentric and nonchalant as the late singer herself. Encompassing pieces such as back to black shirt-tail hem skirts, leather varsity jackets and silk kimono coats tied at the waist, Winehouse probably wouldn’t have wanted her couture any other way.

Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal

Leave it to the house of Margiela to put an unconventional spin on couture. Rope, braided bracelets and hundreds of pearlescent buttons were turned into  knee-length trench coats, colourful micro dresses, and slouchy blazer and pegged trouser combos, proving that recycled fashion doesn’t have to be drab.

Valentino

It has only taken a few seasons for Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri to fully establish their trademark of girlish and graceful designs at Valentino. Marking a sweet end to haute couture fashion week, this collection of chiffon, lace and tulle in fine floral prints had a glamourised Charlotte Brontë/Jane Austen novel feel to it. Piccioli and Chiuri clearly have a talent for capturing fashion daydreams.

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House Of Art

26.01.2012 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

A multi-media exploration of the interaction between fashion, movement and appropriation, the House Of Yvonne exhibition showcases the work of Colin Self, Kenneth Anger, Sophie Macpherson and Clare Stephenson.

Self’s colourful pencil drawings of female subjects from the 1960s, addressing the zeitgeist of passivity and fear during the Cold War, as well as the escapism that entertainment offered during this period, will be on display.

Whilst Self’s work is a thoughtful reflection on the isolation of the individual, consumer culture and politics, the screening of American film artist Kenneth Anger’s 6-minute short film Puce Moment offers an exploration of Hollywood hedonism.

Glasgow-based creative Sophie Macpherson, known for her work on the formation of self-identity through communication, presents an archive of Barbara Hulanicki for Biba dresses for the exhibit, while sculpture artist Clare Stephenson has created digital cut-and-paste martini glass designs as a representation of decadence.

Showing in the Victorian-style interior of temporary arts space The Hidden Noise, House Of Yvonne is an interesting and eye-opening fusion of art and fashion.

House Of Yvonne is on display at The Hidden Noise, 1/1, 24 Hayburn Crescent, Glasgow, G11 5AY, until February 11.
thehiddennoise.info

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Mary Katrantzou X Longchamp

24.01.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Central Saint Martins graduate Mary Katrantzou is undoubtedly one of fashion’s current favourites.Those who haven’t been able to grab one of her highly-coveted digital print pieces now have the chance to own a fluorescently bright handbag created by the Greek designer.

Part of her collaboration with Longchamp and now available exclusively at Colette Paris, the totes in 3D prints of lanterns, orchids and aquariums are the perfect excuse to put a bit of Katrantzou in your closet.

colette.fr
marykatrantzou.com

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Amazing Grace

23.01.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

As a fashion editor, Grace Coddington has created limitless fantasy worlds, earning a reputation for a meticulous eye and rare imagination. Now a new exhibition of her ex-husband Willie Christie’s work shows her not only as an image-maker, but as the image itself. Throughout the Seventies and Eighties, Coddington collaborated with her then husband on a series of experimental fashion photographs. The little seen results are now part of an exhibition of Christie’s work at London’s Eight Club. From hauntingly lit scenes of cinematic glamour to striking and powerful monochrome portraits it’s an opportunity to gaze at the beauty of one of fashion’s most important and enigmatic visionaries.

Willie Christie’s Limited Edition Collection is on show at the Eight Club, London EC3 until 24th February.

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Print Preview

20.01.2012 | Art , Blog | BY:

This month Covent Garden’s Aram Gallery brings together a pick and mix cross section of the design world’s fascination with 3D printing. The umbrella term for Rapid Prototyping or Additive Manufacturing, 3D printing allows designers to use strands of, typically, polyamide or nylon in place of ink to create 3D objects based on a computer drawn image.

The nascent print form was adopted for producing prototypes but is now being explored as a means to an end. The Send to Print / Print to Send exhibition unites designers and studios both emerging and established to showcase not only the enduring significance of this stage in the design process, but also the potential of this technology.

Highlights include Chau Har Lee’s exquisite heels – a departure from more conventional footwear, but nonetheless visually arresting – modern tapestries by Chloe McCormich and Nicholas O’Donnell-Hoare and Assa Ashuach’s textual homeware. These designers are not only experts in their fields, but dare to dabble with 3D printing to take their designs to the next level.

Chau Har Lee comments: “My knowledge of traditional shoemaking helps me know how and where I can break boundaries. Importantly, although my most conceptual designs are showpieces, they are still built to adorn the foot.”

Perhaps Chloë McCormick sums it up best, though, when she says, “the intention of Warped Tapestry was not to work against new technologies but to find a balance where they would work with each other.”

Send to Print / Print to Send is at The Aram Gallery, 110 Drury Lane, London WC2B 5SG until 25th February.
thearamgallery.org

Assa Ashuach, Twist Loop Light

Chloë McCormick Warped Tapestry, 2010

Chloë  McCormick and Nicholas O’Donnell-Hoare, Tapestry Spectacle, 2011
(Top) Chau Har Lee, Rapid Form Shoe, 2009

Images courtesy of The Aram Gallery and Shira Klasmer.

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Circle of Life

19.01.2012 | Art , Blog | BY:

Sam Winston is serious about doodling. Whether he’s drawing circles or rearranging words, his painstaking works play with shape and language to talk about life and death. From tomorrow he’s holding a pop up registry office in the Royal Festival Hall where he’ll commemorate the quarter of a million lives that are born and die in the space of 12 hours around the world.

Members of the public can add themselves and their loved ones to the work. Each circle will mark the ebb and flow of life, showing people as more than just a number.

Sam Winston: Birthday will be at the Royal Festival Hall 27 January – 29 January, 10am – 11pm.
samwinston.com

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Claire de Rouen: RIP

18.01.2012 | Blog , Culture , Thoughts | BY:

For fashion students, photography lovers and art fanatics, Claire de Rouen’s bookshop, hidden away above a sex shop on Charing Cross Road, was an oasis of rare prints, signed editions and fledgling publications. A larger than life character, with her striking ageless style and ever present alsation pug Otis, Claire’s passing last week after a prolonged illness is a loss to all who prize independence and personality and to those resisting the creeping tide of a homogeneous culture.

There was room for everyone in her shop, all were free to browse or buy, and on her shelves young talent jostled happily alongside huge names. Twin can only thank and pay our respects to a woman who strove to deliver the best and allow the young to flourish.

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Piece of Mind

16.01.2012 | Art , Blog | BY:

A major Tate exhibition of Yayoi Kusama’s work doesn’t even open for another three weeks, but Twin are already dotty with anticpation. Such is the appeal of the Japanese artist’s work and personal story that the exhibition is shaping up to be the most exciting of 2012.

Since 1977, Japan’s foremost contemporary artist has, of her own free will, lived in a psychiatric institution and has been a victim of her own neurotic and obsessional behaviour. This behaviour however, has transformed itself over four

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decades, into startling, astounding art.

Come February 9th, the Tate Modern offers a diverse parade of her work, from paintings and drawings, to captured performances and immersive installations.She may be mostly known for her slight dot obsession, but this exhibition explores further, celebrating her intensely fruitful career, and is sure to only garner her more fervent followers.

Yayoi Kusama is at the Tate Modern from 9th February – 5th June 2012
tate.org.uk

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Video Kills

13.01.2012 | Blog , Music | BY:

As an actress, Samantha Morton is known for her arresting performances and as a director, her video for minimalist rock duo The Kills, elicits the same intensity of emotion.

Shot in monochrome 35mm film in a cramped photo booth, the video for their song The Last Goodbye is an exploration of Jamie Hince and Alison Mosshart’s ten year working relationship. Mosshart’s luminous beauty, often hidden behind huge hair and glasses is fully exposed, while her voice tilts beautifully at melancholy notes. While The Kills rarely enjoy the video making premise, the simplicity of Morton’s premise allows Mosshart and Hince’s friendship to be the star.

Watch the video here

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The Girl From Brazil

12.01.2012 | Art , Blog | BY:

As a co-founding member of Neo-Concretism, artist Lygia Pape was at the forefront of the emerging contemporary art scene in Fifties Brazil. In 2004,

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Pape passed away aged 77 and her contribution has since been recognized at a major retrospective at the Reina Sofia in Madrid, a version of which is currently at the Serpentine Gallery.

Magnetized Space conveys the heat and rhythm of Pape’s life work, consisting of early drawings and poems from her Concrete period as well as later works which concentrated on the depiction of emotion and sensation and fellow artist Hélio Oiticica described as permanently open seeds.

Tonight, Guy Brett, a writer and curator who knew the artist personally, will talk through a selection of her films and her process behind them, all in the context of the Brazilian avant-garde’s history. It’s a chance to remember an often forgotten Twentieth Century revolutionary, whose work playfully and skillfully mediated the politics and aesthetics of Brazilian society.

Lygia Pape: Film Work Talk by Guy Brett Thursday 12 January 2012, 7pm at the Centre for Possible Studies, W1U 8HR
Magnetized Space is at the Serpentine until 19 February 2012
serpentinegallery.org

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Love Leather

11.01.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Zana Bayne makes pieces for people who aren’t afraid to let their accessories do the talking.

The Brooklyn-based designer handcrafts body harnesses, belts and other accessories worn by the likes of Lady Gaga. Having founded her blog Garbage Dress in 2008, Bayne already has a strong following for her own sense of style, which is composed of Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens and lots of black. Both her personal and brand aesthetic showcase a penchant for slightly dark and elegant.

Twin talked to the designer about bullfighting suits and the power of blogs…

What is the design process of a collection from start to finish?
I like to make collections that respond to the one prior, often ‘carrying over’ designs. Sometimes it begins with a color, or shape, or specific body part that I want to highlight. A lot of the time, I think of a certain ‘lack’ or ‘void’ – something that I wish existed, or was more accessible. From there I do a lot of sketching. In the developmental stage, I do a lot of image hoarding; I collect pictures that seem to resonate with my current state of mind, and once there’s enough of them I try to look for themes and patterns.

What inspires your designs in general, and more specifically, your F/W 11 collection?
I like to design with my friends in mind, taking what I do and adapting it to something that would fit their style. I like my work to be wearable for a variety of people, so I definitely keep styling options in mind. For F/W 11, I began with the image of a Torrero & his Traje de Luces (bullfighting suit) – the feelings of strength, pride, and confidant finesse. I also used wider cuts of leather to create bolder lines on the body. The colour palate of red, black, and patent black leather echoed that masculinity.

How has your blog helped you develop your brand?
From the advent of my blog back in 2008, I realized that if used correctly, it could become a very effective portfolio of my point of view. I have always posted my own photographic content, and kept the entries based on my life experiences.

Every step of my business development is chronicled on my blog. I think this openness and visual archive has been a huge help. I’m able to share the process behind the product as well as show how my pieces can be worn in daily life. I think its hard for a lot of new labels to establish consumer trust without years of brand history, so in a sense I have been able to create this through blogging.

What are your future plans and projects with  Zana Bayne Leather?
Right now I’m working on my S/S 12 collection which I will be showing in February (I think seasons are unnecessary for accessories), as well as a few collaborations with designers for their F/W 12 collections. Everything is still made by hand by myself & my studio helpers, so I’m hoping to find a way to relieve some of the labour intensity. We shall see.

zanabayne.com
garbagedress.com

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Beefed up

10.01.2012 | Blog , Culture | BY:

Herbivores, look away. Slabs of meat have never been more de rigueur and leading the pack is feted burger joint MEATliquor.

Chef Yianni Papoutsis, head of the operation, has made a name for himself as a street food pioneer thanks to Meatwagon, a burger van responsible for guerilla “Meatings” in London car parks, industrial estates and, more recently, festivals and the subsequent #Meateasy pop-up in a derelict Italian restaurant above an abandoned pub in New Cross.

Together with Scott Collins, the liquor in MEATliquor, Papoutsis has arguably revolutionised the West End identikit dining scene with cool design, jam jar cocktails and greasy Dead Hippie burgers and onion rings.

As Collins says, “The MEATWAGON has come a long way since its small beginnings in a vandalised van in a South London car park…We have taken #Meateasy to the next level, bringing meat dining to London’s West End at New Cross prices.”

MEATliquor, 74 Welbeck Street W1G 0BA
meatliquor.com

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Eve Arnold Remembered

09.01.2012 | Art , Blog , Culture , Thoughts | BY:

As that rarity, a female photojournalist in the Fifties, Eve Arnold joined the Magnum Photographic Agency, home to the likes of Robert Capa and Henri Cartier-Bresson. Already in 1948, as the only female in her photography class in New York, she had distinguished herself amongst her male peers. Taught by the art director of Harper’s Bazaar, Alexey Brodovitch, and with Richard Avedon among those in her class, Arnold took her camera to the catwalks of Harlem, where an alternative to mainstream fashion had found its feet.

Over the subsequent decades her eye for an image and her awareness of her own minority status, never failed to help her cast light upon those whom the camera might have otherwise ignored. She recorded the civil rights movement, American agrarians, South African shantytowns and Mongolian horse trainers. Always interested in women’s issues, in 1971 she made a film, Women Behind the Veil, going inside Arabian hammams and harems.

In her celebrity photographs, her understanding and compassion resulted in original interpretations of the glitterati. A favourite with actresses like Marlene Dietrich and Joan Crawford, most famously her naturalistic aesthetic, took Hollywood star Marilyn Monroe out of the glare of the studio portrait and gave the world an enduring intimate insight into her beauty.

Her passing away last week at the grand age of 99 is a reminder of her legacy, not only of the startling images she took, but of a woman with a rare light, who lived brightly and bravely.

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2011 Rewind: Culture

06.01.2012 | Art , Blog , Culture , Music , Thoughts | BY:

For our final rewind, Twin names the art shows, books and music that made it big, as well as those waiting to enter centre stage…

Francesca Gavin – Art Editor

For me this has been the year of Mark Leckey – both his solo show at the Serpentine and an hypnotic installation at the Printemps de Septembre in Toulouse. I’ve been obsessed by his work for years and think he has a massive influence on a whole younger generation on artists with his fascination with pop culture, technology, music and screens. I like many others wait with excitement at whatever comes next.

In 2012, I’m really looking forward to surviving the apocalypse and visiting the Marrakech Biennial in February. Some really great artists are in the line up including Aleksandra Domanovic, Jon Nash and Matthew Stone and I think its going to be a fascinating trip.

Elsewhere 176 new monthly programme of emerging artists, Yayoi Kusama and Edvard Munch at the Tate Modern, Rashid Johnson’s big shows at Hauser and Wirth NYC and London throughout the year, Urs Fisher at Palazzo Grassi in Venice, and the Berlin Biennial (which can only be an improvement on two years ago which was uber-dull).

Aimee Farrell – Features Director

In terms of writers in 2011 it has to be Caitlin Moran at the top of the list. How To Be A Woman managed to make feminism funny and accessible.

In 2012 I’m excited about Rachel Cusk. Her Granta essay about life after marriage, which throws a feminist light on the institution of divorce has been developed into a major new work of non-fiction, called Aftermath: On Marriage and Separation. Published by Faber the book will be a series of meditations on women’s mid-lives and family life after divorce.

Last year marked another 12 months of female dominance in the music industry, whether it was Beyonce at Glastonbury or Adele taking America. There were strong albums from the likes of Feist and a great debut from songstress Anika. For me though, the highlight was PJ Harvey storming the Mercury Music Prize for a second time. Let England Shake easily summed up the zeitgeist for 2011 and proved that there are still important albums being made.

For 2012, there’s a feeling it’s going to be the year of the viral superstar. We’ve already had Azealia Banks’ 212 and Lana Del Rey’s Video Games, now we need to hear the albums.

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2011 Rewind: Fashion

05.01.2012 | Blog , Fashion , Thoughts , Twin Life | BY:

In the second part of our look back over the past year, Twin’s fashion team name their stars of 2011 and who to watch out for in the next 12 months…

Celestine Cooney – Fashion Director

My favourite show of 2011 was Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 12. I fell in love with the whole collection, it felt so modern and was executed so perfectly with the combination of traditional lace with sheer tulle and rubber. The use of colour in Spring/Summer 12 was also really inspiring with bright pink and a lucid green popping in a collection of black and white.

I think Simone Rocha is a star in the making. I find what she is doing and the collections she is producing, incredibly exciting.

Naomi Miller – Fashion Editor

I loved the Celine collection for Spring/Summer 2012. It was very chic, the couple of knitwear pieces they did were beautiful and so innovative.

Obviously it’s been an incredible 2011 for Sarah Burton, but I’m also stoked for Olivier Theyskens for putting Theyskens’ Theory on the map this year. I also loved the Thomas Tait show – and loved the styling with the sneakers!

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