As the fashion pack decamps to Paris for the next round of Autumn / Winter 15 womenswear shows, Twin revisits London Fashion Week – the off-guard moments, the new stars of design and the risk-takers who made us sit up and take notice.

1205

Back to Winter basics was the theme for designer and NewGen recipient Paula Gerbase this season, as her signature androgynous vision continued with structured tailoring, loose fit trousers and knitwear taking the form of longer-length dresses, high polo necks and a sleeveless knit tunic. Utility detailing worked against the neutral colour palette of chalky whites, navy and grey, as the Barbican’s glass roofed conservatory provided a leafy sanctuary and tropical oasis of calm during a hectic fashion week – a setting which blended perfectly with this effortlessly understated collection.

1205.eu

Charlie May

Turning her presentation into a live lookbook shoot – complete with photographer Yuvali Thesis and illustrator Clym Evernden capturing the moment – Charlie May invited the audience behind the scenes into her world of clean-cut modernism. Set in Mayfair’s art-deco inspired Beaumont Hotel, the collection presented an oversize silhouette as generous shapes framed the body in a mix of shearling, leather and rich wools – the emphasis was on tactile textures, quality cuts and winter seen through a fresh minimalist focus.

charlie-may.co.uk

Helen Lawrence

Experimenting with the concept of deconstruction of textural fabrics, the designer drew inspiration from the tape-wrapped sculptures of British artist Phyllida Barlow.

Creating a collection which included oversize silhouettes in lambswool and elastomeric yarn, raw unfinished holes were left in the garments, paired with heavy leather boots by Kult Domini, evoking a woolly 90s grunge aesthetic.

Set against a landscape of meteor-like rocks, her vision transformed Chelsea College of Arts into a post-apocalyptic playground, with the odd pop of gold bleeding through the romantic darkness.

helen-lawrence.co.uk

Christopher Raeburn 

We are sailing was a key reference for Raeburn’s nautical-inspired collection, Immerse, which continued the theme from his AW15 Menswear show, offering a bold exploration of the textures, shapes and colours associated with a life on the seas. A merino wool cape, puffer jacket, pea coat and duffel coat all reinvented the sailor aesthetic, in muted blues and life-jacket orange.

His shark print motif was in full effect across knitwear and jumpsuits while fur detailing and long ponchos injected a casually luxe elegance into his signature mix of modern technical outerwear. Shark-shaped bags and mittens gave things a playful twist. Aye aye captain.

christopherraeburn.co.uk

Joseph 

The basement of a Soho car park complete with silver foil blankets for warmth, provided the setting for Joseph’s take on desconstructed femininity – and the blanket association didn’t stop there. Across an almost nude colour palette, heavy knits and blanket fabrics seamlessly blended with silk, fur and cashmere to evoke an organic cozy familiarity, as hard oversize masculine cuts played against the softness, unravelling a seductive femininity – inspiration drawn from the work of sculptor Robert Morris.

In a collection which included threadbare knits with drop-stitching, fur tunics and blanket dresses, all worn with velcro strap sandals and thick woolly ankle socks, it evoked the feeling of coming in from the cold, with added comfort.

joseph-fashion.com

Sibling  

Do you wanna be in their gang? Yes please. The Sibling trio continued to put the fun into reworked classics, with an energetic collection which fused a myriad of textural styles, including signature cobwebbed knits, fuzzy furs, lyrically-splashed polished latex and a reinvented tweed two-piece in knitted lurex.

Drawing inspiration from the vibrant hues of the late Danish furniture and interiors designer Verner Panton, 80s neon pinks and sherbet oranges called for attention across colour-block knits, slinky knit dresses and skinny scarves, as detailing from beaded brooches and badges evoked those Saturday trips to Camden Market as a teenager, the one with only DIY on your mind. Slim and sexy silhouettes injected glamour into a collection which celebrated being too cool for school, complete with punk-edged mohawks.

The signature slogan sweater made its entrance too, paying homage to the show’s soundtrack by Blondie – Call Me it said, and if you saw one of Sibling’s girls hanging out at a party… you would definitely try to get her number.

siblinglondon.com

Ashley Williams 

From behind a key-hole underneath a neon sign that read “Ashley’s”, out stepped Georgia May Jagger and Alice Dellal along with a gang of cool cultish skater girls, transporting you back to the future, as 80s and 90s references signified a collection which celebrated subverting conventional dress codes. Taking inspiration from riot-grrl founder Kathleen Hanna, actress Chloe Sevigny and the 1985 Beastie Boys track, Girls, out came leather corsets (think vice and all things nice), heavy metal tees, neon pink cropped jumpers, fur bucket hats, vampish PVC dresses, leggings with knee holes, mini dresses decorated in patches, cartoon face print dresses and knit jumpers and skirts featuring graphics by Fergus Purcell.

This was in no way a bubblegum sweet collection, it was hard and fast for girls with a bold attitude who aren’t afraid to express themselves, defined by bratty slogans like “Improve Your Image. Be Seen With Me.” Now that’s confidence for you.

ashleywilliamslondon.com

Ashish

Who knew that stripper chic could be so covetable, as a troupe of sassy girls stomped out clad in a powerful and provocative collection which drew inspiration from Jane Fonda’s character Bree Daniels, in the cult 70s movie Klute.

Signature sequin embellishment took on a new form across pumped-up camouflage parkas, mini skirts and jumpers with fur trims, while stonewashed denim was roughed up for the streets, cut into dresses, jackets and lace-up jeans decorated with stud detailing. Boudoir-ready nighties with lace trimming sent the temperature soaring, along with lipstick-red latex boots and a patchwork fur slogan jumper which simply read, “Sex” – watching this collection, you couldn’t help but have it on your mind.

ashish.co.uk

Topshop Unique

There’s a new cocktail in town and it’s called ‘Topshop Unique’, as the fashion powerhouse blended one part outdoorsy daytime English heritage with one part slinky night owl, serving up a decadent mix of sexed-up kilts, vinyl miniskirts, dandelion print dresses with thigh-high slits, marabou trimmed dresses, embellished velvet frocks, Aran knits, retro roll necks and faux fur-lined duffel coats.

Mixing the conventional with the unconventional, this was a gilded happy hour full of posh girls from the countryside who come to the city to party (yah yah), kicking off their red square-toed velvet shoes at the end of the night. We’ll cheers to that.

topshop.com

Tags: 1205, ashish, Ashley Williams, AW15, Charlie May, Christopher Raeburn, Helen Lawrence, Joseph, LFW, Sibling, Topshop

The latest womenswear recipients for NEWGEN autumn/winter 2015 have been announced. Ashley Williams and Ryan Lo will receive catwalk sponsorship next season, having both received presentation sponsorship last time round, as well as 1205 and Marques Almeida, who will be receiving catwalk sponsorship again. Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril and Faustine Steinmetz will be receiving presentation sponsorship along with newcomer Molly Goddard. Two new names to the NEWGEN roster are Marta Jakubowski and Sadie Williams, who have been given exhibition sponsorship for the upcoming season.

“NEWGEN produces the stars of London Fashion Week – the phenomenal progress of Marques Almeida in six seasons of support is proof of that,” states Sarah Mower –  BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent. “Following in their footsteps is a whole new slew of discoveries whose sparky originality and careful entrepreneurialism have won them the praise of the NEWGEN committee and Topshop’s invaluable sponsorship. We think the quality, colour and sheer desirability of the clothes audiences will be seeing from 1205, Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril, Faustine Steinmetz and Ryan Lo will step up yet another rung this season. And now they’re joined by an influx of three brilliantly individualistic young women, Molly Goddard, Marta Jakubowski and Sadie Williams.”

britishfashioncouncil.co.uk

Tags: 1205, Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril, Faustine Steinmetz, Marta Jakubowski, Molly Goddard, NEWGEN, Ryan Lo, Sadie Williams

They say that behind every great man there’s a great woman… and behind every great man’s great wardrobe is an even greater woman. Especially if his clothes rail is crammed to the sides with 1205 – the unisex fashion label set up by the tailor–turned–fashion designer, Paula Gerbase. “I had been on Savile Row for five years and felt it was time to move on to new challenges,” Paula told Twin. “I wanted to explore the possibility of taking the knowledge I had acquired on Savile Row further – that is when I launched 1205.” With previous experiences under her belt that nestle within both the womenswear and menswear market, Gerbase set out to create 1205 as a brand accessible for both men and women, but with a sartorial aesthetic which is consistent between both lines, focusing on the intriguing balance between femininity and masculinity.

Following a successful presentation of the latest menswear collection during London Collections: Men earlier this year, 1205 will also be debuting their Autumn/ Winter 2013 womenswear offering through the renowned NEWGEN initiative at London Fashion Week this month. Whether it’s due to excitement or curiosity (or perhaps just downright impatience) we decided that we couldn’t wait much longer so we asked Paula to give us more of an insight into 1205 plus an exclusive cheeky sneak peek of what fabrics, textures and colours feature in the new womenswear collection…

Firstly, what’s behind the name 1205?

1205 is simply the day I was born. To me it signifies the beginning – a fresh start. I had no interest in having my name on a label, I really just wanted to make clothing, and the graphic anonymity of 4 numbers felt right.

Although tailoring is very much a significant and fundamental feature to 1205, did you find the transition from designing for a traditional tailoring atelier to creating a contemporary fashion label challenging?

The most challenging part of 1205 has been to find manufacturers who are willing to find the balance between tradition and modernity, working with unusual fabrics, lighter constructions but still retaining a defined silhouette. My experience on Savile Row was with a tailor who was forward thinking and so the transition between Savile Row and 1205 was a natural progression.

Harvey Nichols hosted your latest menswear presentation during London Collections: Men earlier this month – how did that go?

Harvey Nichols hosted a preview of the collection, but in a way it was more of an introduction to the 1205 aesthetic, through Kindness’s performance wearing bespoke 1205. The idea was to collaborate with other creatives to showcase the wearability and versatility of the collection, as well as to show tailoring in movement, removing it from its usual rigid representation.

Does your personal style reflect similarities to the androgynous/ masculine aesthetic of your own womenswear designs?

It was never intentional, but my personal aesthetic probably does reflect in the collection. I have always loved men’s clothing for its attention to detail, focus on fabric and cut and its considered construction – I have worn men’s pieces for as long as I can remember. The subtle thought process and continuity of a man’s wardrobe was always interesting to me; they are values 1205 encompasses also.

You will be showcasing your Autumn/Winter ’13 womenswear collection next month as part of the NEWGEN exhibitions at London Fashion Week – any hints as to what we can expect? What was the inspiration?

The Autumn/ Winter 2013 collection is based on a few ‘Recits de Voyage’ I found by a Swiss writer and photographer who was most prolific between 1934 and 1942. They inspired a collection about travel, which translated into a redefining of the new 1205 uniform playing with contrasts of formal/casual fabrics and shapes, as well as introducing new fabrics such as waterproof flannel and knitwear. As ever, the focus of the 1205 collection is on subtle details and texture contrasts.

Who is your all time style hero?

Anyone with a strong sense of self, someone original!

1205.eu

Tags: 1205, AW 13, Paula Gerbase