No stranger to innovation, Kenzo has launched a new initiate to give young talent a platform to make it in the industry.
Kenzo Season Zero sees three emerging film makers – Mati Diop, Baptist Penetticobra and Eduardo Williams – explore the question of ‘How do we inhabit the earth today in 2017’ working with A/W17 collections. Working across the broad theme of humans and their relationships with our world, the films weave fiction and documentary, telling stories o places such as Bolivia, France, United States or Argentina – and the compelling narratives of everyday life within them.
Time to swap up your lipstick shades, change your nail polish, lessen the bronzer and swaddle your hair and skin in central heating antidotes: Autumn is here. In the first of our beauty edits, Twin rounds up bold, playful and on trend products and perfumes to add to your favourites this season.
Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet
Embrace dark nights and new adventures with Chanel’s long-lasting velvet lipstick – the intense shades are a perfect match for a deep glass of rich red wine.
NARS Audacious Lipstick, Lana shade
Embrace autumnal tones with the colour of the season – both on the trees and on trend. NARS thick lipstick ensures a playful upgrade to your look. Wear with retro flares in burnt orange and orange tinted glassed (ala Bella Hadid) for a fashionable finish.
& Other Stories, Paris Atelier lipstick
The new range from & Other Stories is inspired by community gardens of Paris. Made from 85% natural origin products, their creamy lipstick with cold-pressed certified French plum oil works dreamily against central heating.
Timothy Han eau de parfum, she came to stay
Inspired by Simone de Beauvoir’s 1943 existential novel of the same name, Timothy Han’s unisex perfume blends notes of geranium, basil Indonesian clove with a hint of patchouli to offer an addictive, immersive scent.
She Came to Stay, Eau de Parfum #002
Maison Margiela, Lazy Sunday Morning
Shroud yourself in the feeling of freshly washed sheets and cosy mornings with this soft, supple scent from Maison Margiela – good enough to take to brunch.
Byredo, 1996
Inspired by the photograph ‘Kirsten 1996’, taken by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Byredo’s new scent is warm and evocative, much like the Dutch duo’s work.
Byredo, 1996
Reek perfume, Damn Rebel Witches
Edinburgh-based perfumers REEK make empowering, rebellious scents for modern women. Expect scents that blend punchy, unexpected hints of blood orange and hazelnut – the splash of attitude you need to enliven the everyday.
Susanne Kaufmann
Hailing from the Bregenzer Forest in Austria, Susanne Kaufmann knows a thing or two about making resilient, high-impact beauty products. Invest in her plant-based hair mask for a season of winter-proof locks – and it smells so good.
UKA hair oil
Japanese beauty brand UKA may only be stoked in select stores in Europe, but it’s worth hunting down. Their hail oils combat harsh climates, and the packaging is super cute too.
Surrounded by the grime and grit of post-soviet Warsaw, Natalia Maczek and Katarzyna Kotnowska started by printing t-shirts for their own crowd, dressing the cities young clubbers and skaters in parodies of luxury designs. Since then, the brand has enjoyed unprecedented success.
Stocked at Browns, huge in Asia, and having generated major buzz at New York fashion week, MISBHV has quickly gained international acclaim. By celebrating their Eastern European influences with a sense of individuality and modern awareness, MISBHV has given the cool kids a sartorial concept they can get behind, playing by their own rules in fulfilling an agenda they never tried to conform to. Twin catches up with Natalia to talk real beauty, Warsaw style and building a new world.
You’ve just come back from your second show at NYFW. What was your experience like?
It felt really good. It’s interesting how all the different means of communication – the cast, the garments, accessories, music, space, scent, light and movement come together for a show.
What would your dream MISBHV fashion show look like?
We would like it to feel honest and real.
MISBHV, much like Vetements or Gosha Rubchinskiy, has made its name by making streetwear a luxury brand. How do you think the two work together?
Streetwear is by definition independent and rooted in real emotion. Luxury is often described by the impeccable craftsmanship. We would like to think of ourselves as a brand that can in the future marry both definitions.
You reject the ideal of polished and traditional beauty, both in your designs and your choice of models. What is beauty to MISBHV?
We believe that there is no beauty without honesty. What is beauty if you can not connect to it?
Warsaw, MISBHV’s hometown, is fast becoming a pioneering cultural center, going through a creative upheaval over the last couple of years. Do you think it will soon match the scene in Western Europe? Or is it heading in its own direction?
Because of the hardships of war and communism Poland will never quite match the art scene in the West. We should thus focus on creating our own identity. This is not to say that we support or approve of the domestic politics of the moment.
What kind of person do you have in mind when you design your collections?
We only make clothes that we like. It wouldn’t feel honest designing for anyone outside of our circle. We have a tight group of long time friends that we work with and we also have “muses” like Lera Abova or Sita Abellan.
Have you ever thought of collaborating with another brand?
Not really. We feel like our universe is still to be made. We need to create our own world first.
For AW17, Molly Goddard brought audiences into a sumptuous banquet, where models sauntered around the Tate Modern show space in signature tulle dresses. This collection offered a veritable feast – aesthetically and literally within the presentation – where creamy pinks and reds mingled with azure, a bold use of metallic silver flashes and delicate embroidery throughout.
This collection showed Goddard at her most diverse to date, walking trousers and cropped, peplum inspired jackets as well as the silhouettes she has become famous for. We can’t wait to see where she takes her brands over the course of 2017.
Contrasting rich, buttery song with a brutalist aesthetic, the teaser film released by Gareth Pugh ahead of his AW17 show tonight has us tingling with excitement.
Directed by Pugh’s long-time collaborators Ruth Hogben and Andrea Gelardin, the startling black and white aesthetic is infused with powerful sound courtesy of Rebekah Del Rio – star of David Lynch’s Mulholland Drive – who performs a haunting version of her signature song ‘Llorando.’
The film opens with a quote from Shakespeare’s King Lear, “‘Tis’ the time’s plague when madmen lead the blind”, setting a strong precedent for a political context in his AW17 show. As Pugh notes, the film is “a vision of a world on the precipice of anarchy.”
If Pugh’s previous shows are anything to go by, audiences can expect his AW17 collection to be a damning indictment on the state of current affairs.
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