Margaret Howell AW18 by Jack Davidson

01.08.2018 | Fashion | BY: admin

Jack Davidson gets behind the lens for the Margaret Howell AW18 campaign. Shot in Farnham in Surrey images bring the best of Howell’s refined nostalgia and eternal relevance. Black and white portraits fuel the romantic lilt and emphasise the warm, elegant tailoring at the heart of the season’s collection.

Jack Davison for Margaret Howell AW18 campaign

Jack Davison for Margaret Howell AW18 campaign

Jack Davison for Margaret Howell AW18 campaign

Jack Davison for Margaret Howell AW18 campaign

Jack Davison for Margaret Howell AW18 campaign

Tags: AW18, Margaret Howell

Growing up as a goth in the British Midlands: Twin meets Supriya Lele

27.06.2018 | Fashion | BY: Paul McLauchlan

What does it mean to be British? This is one of the biggest questions facing British people in the aftermath of the Brexit vote. What does Britishness look like? It’s a difficult one to answer given the influx of immigrants, cultures, and customs in British society over the last forty years. It’s something Supriya Lele confronts with her work.

Supriya is a British fashion designer with Indian heritage. Her work is influenced by her British identity and Indian cultural heritage. The way she works with drapery recalls the sari. The colours she works with refer to her own background, growing up as a goth in the British Midlands. Her work is inspired by architecture and sculpture, which she believes are integral facets to fashion design. Her work caught the attention of Fashion East, Lulu Kennedy’s incubator program for emerging talents. With three seasons at London Fashion Week showing as part of Fashion East, the British Fashion Council awarded Supriya NEWGEN sponsorship. This September, she will debut her standalone show at London Fashion Week. Twin caught up with her to discuss identity, launching a brand and “growing up as a goth in the British Midlands.”

When did you know you were meant to be a fashion designer?

I wouldn’t necessarily say I always knew I was meant to be a fashion designer, I began by studying architecture, and then subsequently wanted to study sculpture before last minute changing to my undergraduate degree in fashion…I think these three areas are quite linked. I was always really interested in fashion and it has always been an important part of my life, and this has been a very natural process.

Surprise LeLe AW18 | © Chris Yates

There are also parts of your work which refer to your childhood “growing up as a goth in the British Midlands”. For you, is storytelling an integral part of your designs?

Haha, yes the “goth,” aspect or subversive aspect to my work is important. I have been exploring my cultural identity since I completed my Masters at the Royal College of Art- and that involves exploring different memories, or parts of my family history which have informed my personal viewpoint and design handwriting; I think storytelling is a big part of that.

Your work features contrast: masculinity and femininity; your Indian heritage and British cultural identity; lo-fi fabrics and the air of luxury– is your work defined by contrast or the balance between the contrasting elements?

I always enjoy the tension between high and low and I like to play with that in my work. I would probably say that the balance between the contrasting elements is what I enjoy- finding that middle space or exploring that tension is what is exciting.

Surprise LeLe AW18 | © Chris Yates

It was reported that your first presentation with Fashion East came at a time when you hadn’t yet worked out how to sell the collection. Is this true?

My first presentation with Fashion East was when I showed parts of my Masters Collection from the Royal College of Art- most of this had been created on the course without sales in mind; so it was more that the actual collection was not ready for sales. It was more an aim to present my ideas and vision in that context, and introduce myself to the industry.

You worked with Fashion East for three seasons, what was the best advice you received?

I received a lot of good advice from Fashion East so this is a tough question! I think it was not to worry too much and to be confident in my own abilities.

You’ve been afforded NEWGEN sponsorship for the upcoming season. How does it feel to join the ranks alongside your peers Matty Bovan, Bianca Saunders, as well as previous winners such as J.W. Anderson and Simone Rocha?

It feels really exciting to have my own slot on schedule at LFW, I am really looking forward to it. NEWGEN has an amazing list of alumni, but also the current designers are so strong it’s really great to be a part of it!

What is next for the brand?

To keep pushing my vision forward and to grow my business and brand organically with the support I have.

Tags: AW18, Fashion, london fashion week, New dessigners, Surprise LeLe

Louis Vuitton AW18 brings a new vision for strong women

07.03.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY: admin

Military yet undone, matching but out of synch, the Louis Vuitton AW18 show brought to life a new vision of powerful women. The show was all about turning the expected on its head, and there was a palpable sense of strangeness and mystery throughout. Bags were carried on their sides, rather than upright; eye make-up streaked across one eye but left the other bare; traditional silhouettes such as pencil skirts and cashmere polo necks were mixed with peplum leather jackets and suede-shouldered pale yellow, shearling jackets. It was Nicolas Ghesquiere at his savviest, blending femininity and power to offer an original vision. Here’s to the new era.

Louis Vuitton AW18

Louis Vuitton AW18

Louis Vuitton AW18

Louis Vuitton AW18

Louis Vuitton AW18

Louis Vuitton AW18

Tags: AW18, Louis Vuitton AW18, Paris, twin, Twin magazine

An exclusive look at Aphid’s AW18 collection

23.02.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY: admin

London-based collective Aphid brings sharp, sculptural tailoring and avant-garde design to the contemporary scene. With a moody, darker feel, it’s all about embracing the strange and unfamiliar. Here the brand gives Twin an exclusive insight into their designs and thought process behind the AW18 collection.

Our AW18 collection is based around the idea of ‘RITUALS: Ceremony consisting of a series of actions performed according to a prescribed order.’ We love the notion of dressing for an occasion and the heavily debated topic of what ‘dressing-up’ looks like for a contemporary woman. This led us to a fascination with ceremonial dressing and Japanese men’s Hakama trousers, worn during ancient tea ceremonies. Dressing for ceremony; what it means and how it’s achieved for both men and women was an initial focal point for us. These tailored, oversized and heavily pleated ceremonial trousers really excited us, and we began deconstructing and re-invisioning these and other forms of traditional dress, how layering is used and the nature of formal dressing has evolved. The notion of suiting and ceremony was also at play in our thought process with the choice of grid print and surface texture. The linear formations playing with the hybrid/ intertwined idea of a pinstripe and the ritually raked ridges of a zen garden.

Linesaline Dress, Aphid AW18 | © Aphid

Colour-wise we wanted to combine the reflective and contemplative sensation that a dark, monochrome palette evokes with vivid, energising shades associated with celebratory clothing – a duality that we frequently return to. Colour isn’t something that we naturally lean towards and as such we won’t ever be a brand that takes colour lightly – for us these infusions of saturated brights punctuate the collection bring an interesting tension, allowing our constant canvas of monochrome tones to be refreshed and invigorated with a new perspective each season.

See more of the sketches for Aphid’s AW18 collection below.

Linesaline Dress, Aphid AW18 | © Aphid

Bilenta top and Glasson Trouser, Aphid’s AW18 collection | © Aphid

Peckton Blazer Osaka Trousers, Aphid AW18 | © Aphid

Braxton dress Aphid AW18 | © Aphid

Calucine Jumpsuit, Aphid AW18 | © Aphid

Tags: Aphid, AW18, Womenswear

Arthur Arbesser AW18

23.02.2018 | Fashion | BY: admin

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Tags: AW18

Behind the scenes at Preen AW18

23.02.2018 | Fashion | BY: admin

Amber Pinkerton goes behind the scenes at Preen to report on the best looks backstage.

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Tags: AW18, london fashion week, preen