Collaboration: one of the greatest learnings of how to remain hopeful in a future uncertain. A vital tenet for Tekla since the start, the value of visions from a plethora of spectrums has given a freedom of expression from a broad playing field to the brand. Working with photographer Laura Coulson, whose intuitive imagery of the everyday holds an exceptional magic, a series of images exploring families and friends with those innate ties that can often never be expressed… but maybe captured on film.
Speaking to Tekla, we talk about knowledge exchange, capturing a particular emotion and finding a common language.
What role does collaboration play with Tekla and your own creative expression?
We like to collaborate with a variety of people whose creative work we find interesting, whether it is with a photographer or a designer, the collaboration itself is a process. You need to find a common language. It is always interesting to get together with other creatives and see things through their eyes to exchange experience and knowledge.
What first attracted you to the photography of Laura Coulson?
I’ve known Laura for ten years now and have been following her works ever since she started taking pictures. She has her unique way of seeing the world, which she projects into her creations. Her ability to see the potential for strong photography in any ordinary situation and capture a particular emotion, makes her images very honest.
What do you think she managed to capture in these images she created with you?
Laura’s idea was to capture the loving spirit of spending time as a family and friends, which we’ve shot during the late summer in London parks. I’ve found that this time has brought everything back to basics and made us refocus our attention on celebrating happiness in the here and now. Appreciating the little things we might have forgotten to enjoy, and I think Laura achieved that abundantly.
How are these emotions captured intrinsic to what you stand for?
I think the honesty and emotions which Laura encapsulates in her works is something we can relate to when it comes to the values in Tekla.
In 2018, Metallic Inc. launched Homecoming, a festival in Lagos, Nigeria combining panel talks, parties, workshops and brand activations to spotlight the influence of African music, art, sport and fashion culture around the world, bringing together up-and-coming African talent and established industry names in a celebration of creativity across the diaspora.
In the wake of COVID19, Browns Fashion have joined forces with Homecoming to present an exclusive experience of Homecoming 2020. Titled “Ni Agbaye”, meaning “in the world”, Homecoming and Browns have created what can be described as an unfolding e-zine universe, focussing on the influence that Afro culture has on global pop culture, exploring cultural exchange through the work of some of the diaspora’s most pioneering creative minds. Combining fashion editorials, online panel talks, interviews, custom artwork and in-depth think pieces from notable African publications.
Featured writing commissions will explore the exportation of African arts, culture and the impact of music by The Native, The Republic explores the disruption of narrative by African designers to carve spaces for themselves, Nigerian Gothic has created a series of collages to create new visuals with a modern guise, and the Motherlan create a photo story capturing their extended community.
Aiming to celebrate the cultural exchange of Africa with the world, there will be a physical presence through Yinka Ilori’s installation and listening takeovers in the Immersive Room by Fela Kuti and Obongjayar at the Browns East store in London, and also as ever an almighty focus on the global digital stage, with playlists from the likes of Mowalola and a focus on brand storytelling and cultural exchange from the new Nigerian brands supported online. Explore further here.
Collaboration – never has the creative industry needed to explore the potential of partnerships in such a laterally minded way. As the world goes through what has been dubbed a collective trauma, connected and meaningful interactions have been formulating as the experience of the global crisis solidifies groups – memories that will be shared in the future.
Partnerships are becoming more reasonable, more cultivating, more open to input and experience.We see the term maker traversing a spectrum of craft, limited not to certain adages and opening itself to dialogues with how others are coping and creating. On the crest of the pandemic breaking on western shores, Proenza Schouler collaborated with Birkenstock. Shot by Juergen Teller, the collaboration evokes an impression of the importance to look at function within form once more: of what people want, what people need.
Twin spoke to Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler about this cross pollination of ideas and why we need collaborations now more than ever.
How did this partnership come about?
J&L: The collaboration happened quite organically. A friend of ours who was working on a project with Birkenstock mentioned to them that we were fans of the brand, and that perhaps we should all meet together to discuss a potential collaboration. We met, and the rest is history.
What was the attraction to either design house?
J&L: Birkenstocks have always had a special place in our lives and are one of the few things that the two of us have in common from our separate and completely different childhood experiences.
Lazaro: I grew up in Miami, so the ocean was an important part of my life. Spending your free time on the sand and on boats was what one did as a kid. Birkenstocks were what my friends and I always wore because they were easy, comfortable, and had a kind of counterculture nostalgia associated with them that was very much in the air during those days. I remember wearing them to my first day of college at the University of Miami and not thinking twice about how appropriate that would be. It was simply part of the culture down in the tropics. When I moved to NY, I of course took my Birkenstocks with me and actually still have those exact pair in my closet. They are one of the few things I still have in my possession from those early days before Proenza Schouler.
Jack: I grew up in Tokyo but moved to New Jersey as a child with my family. Growing up in the 90’s and being the free spirited and independent kid that I was, I ended up leaving home at a young age and traveling around the country with the Grateful Dead. It was during those years that Birkenstocks really became a staple of my everyday life. On tour, that was the de facto uniform. They became a kind of symbol of a by gone era that the kids around me were glorifying in a way, and trying to relive on our own. Of course, it was a different time altogether, but Birkenstocks somehow connected the past with the present. I moved to San Francisco after I eventually finished high school, then ended up at an arts boarding school in Massachusetts, before ending up in NY and starting at Parsons. Birkenstock were a part of my entire journey into adulthood and to this day are still a mainstay of my life.
Would you say this is a meeting of likeminded creatives or actually an opposites-attract partnership?
J&L: We love the idea of two New York designers who have a brand firmly planted in the eco system of NY fashion collaborating with a historic German shoemaker. The cross pollinating of cultures and ideas and work styles feels totally pertinent to the world of today.
Why do we need collaboration in the fashion world now more than ever?
Collaborations can be great if they feel organic and natural. We actually don’t do many of them as we like to focus on the work we already do in-house. We have pretty clear ideas of what we like and what we don’t, and sometimes with too many cooks in the kitchen the process can get difficult. There are already two of us, so adding more people into the mix can sometimes get complicated. On the other hand, if the collaborator does something iconic that we feel makes sense for us and our woman, and we have a very clear idea of what we would like to do for it, then of course it is a great thing to do. It opens up your brand to people who wouldn’t normally interact with it and vice versa. It can be an incredibly interesting thing to do on many levels and we think the one-off nature of the project usually makes it exciting and desirable for people.
It’s important to open up your studio to new voices, new ideas, new people, in an effort to push the boundaries of what is possible in-house. We could have done our own version of a Birkenstock sandal with Proenza Schouler shoes, but it would never be a real Birkenstock. Authenticity is something we care deeply about and if we wanted to create something in the world of Birkenstock, who better to do it with than the masters of that kind of shoe: Birkenstock.
Just in time for the 2019 Women’s World Cup in June, Nike released their new collaborative campaign this week featuring four of fashion’s most promising female designers. For the collaboration Ambush’s Yoon Ahn, LVMH Prize recipient Marine Serre, Koché’s Christelle Kocher and MadeMe’s Erin Magee redesigned the classic football jersey with matching sports bras from their own perspective of these sports staples.
Yoon Ahn of AMBUSH created a jersey that speaks to diversity by reflecting aspects of Asian culture in a unisex hybrid jersey inspired by the Happi coat, which is a traditional Japanese straight sleeved coat.
“ I chose the happy coat because, although we are celebrating the tournament and the incredible female players, I believe it is just as important for the fans, for everyone to have universal piece to celebrate in,” she explained.
Nike x AMBUSH
Nike x AMBUSH
Christelle Kocher’s vision however, stemmed from the idea of creating a sort of elegant asymmetry. “I created this dress by reconstructing the soccer jersey around the female body. The result is a dress that can be worn by a girl who plays, dances or moves in the city,” she stated.
Nike x Koché
Nike x Koché
Marine Serre was of course able to offer a version of the signature print which has aided in gaining her recognition over the past few seasons by presenting it in a printed body suit worn under a slender neon green jersey. “The focus of my design is always hybridity and adapting to daily life. It’s important to create a purposeful line that makes a female feel good without compromising style,” said Serre.
Nike x Marine Serre
Nike x Marine Serre
MadeMe’s Erin Maggee instead paid homage to the U.S Women’s National team of the 90’s with a match ready Nike stadium jersey featuring the USA federation crest. “I wanted this jersey to be sport first, fashion second. It’s meant to celebrate the incredible victorious history of the USWNT by drawing attention to the woman namesake of the iconic sportswear company itself: Nike the Goddess of Victory.”
Nike x MadeMe
Nike x MadeMe
The collection will be available for purchase at NikeLab stores globally and a few retailers as of June 7th.
Iconic British fashion houses Vivienne Westwood and Burberry recently joined forces in a collaborative collection released this week. The collection is a celebration of British style and heritage and takes inspiration from Vivienne Westwood iconic collections reimagined from a unisex Burberry approach. From double-breasted and hugger jackets to mini kilts, lace up platforms and berets, all is featured in Burberry’s iconic vintage checkered print. The campaign for the collection features a flavourful cast of names like Kate Moss, Sistren, LadyFag , DelaRosa, Vivienne Westwood , Andreas Kronthaler among others, shot in London by David Sims. The designers of the houses were united by a vision to support and promote a UK non-profit organisation called Cool Earth which works alongside rainforest communities. Four exclusive items from the collection will be auctioned off to raise further support for the organisation along with an oversized T-shirt included in the collection with a handwritten message from Vivienne dedicated to the charity.
Italian semi-streetwear label MSGM, founded by DJ turned designer Massimo Giorgetti recently joined forces with some of Milan’s young musical talents in creating a fashion and music story in dedication to their Fall Winter 2018 Menswear collection. The concept’s title, Causality Sound, was also inspired by the brand’s University of Causality FW18 show which was influenced by University culture featuring street casted models and students. The project features music by upcoming rappers Mike Castello, KBeezy28 and The New Older in tracks which embrace Milan’s emerging street scene while expanding the aesthetic of the collection’s narrative into original music tracks. The EP, produced by Kc28Ent includes three tracks which are now available on Spotify.
Get Tem — a love song which speaks on the everyday scene of the city and the along with the mistakes one can make while living here.
Time To Change — a track about the effectiveness of change and one’s willingness to adapt to new circumstances.
Jamaica — this track is an ode to Brera’s Jamaica bar, a Milanese staple to many, a touristic drinking site, and a get away from home for some.
The mini-album is also paired with a small fashion story which features the artists wearing pieces from the brand’s FW18 collection which is now available in stores.
Swedish fashion house Acne Studios recently partnered with Swedish outdoor brand Fjällräven to produce a unisex capsule collection of outerwear and accessories.
This fashion meets nature collaboration celebrates the 40th year since the launch of Fjällräven’s legendary Kånken backpack with three versions of the bag — the classic backpack, a messenger bag and a mini clutch. Also included are added details to Acne’s ready-to-wear designs such as fake fur trims, reflective patches, oversized pockets, along with bright coloured caps, camouflage sleeping bags and t-shirts printed with Swedish flags and hiking scenes. The collection is set to hit stores on September 6th with prices ranging £100- £1300.
High street staple providers Uniqlo are about to unveil a brand new collaboration for SS16 with Brooklyn-based artist, KAWS.
The 25-piece collections will see the characteristically playful work of KAWS adorning everything from their line of UT (T-shirts) to totes bags and room shoes.
Due to launch in the brand’s Fifth Avenue Global Flagship store on 22nd April, and then throughout the world and online, customers will have the chance to invest in items adorned with KAWS’ iconic ‘companion’ character, as well as his beloved heart, cloud and double-cross motifs.
Described as one of the most relevant artists of his generation, KAWS studied illustration in Manhattan in the early ’90s and has now become well-versed in, and known for, his street art, graphic and product design, paintings, murals and large-scale sculptures.
“This is a challenge to where fashion is currently—a new feminine ideal,” says Kanye West, as his first adidas Originals collection – Yeezy Season 1 – launches around the world on 29th October.
Comprised of both voluminous and second-skin like proportions – the former generally on top, and the latter below – West reiterates the practicality he had in mind with these pieces, describing the easily interchangeable capsule collection as “solutions-based” and akin to Lego. Ultimately, he has, quite literally, aimed to create a series of uniform building blocks, from which his customers can construct a daily identity. “I don’t want the clothes to be the life,” he stresses. “I want the clothes to help the life.”
So what of the garments themselves? They are undoubtedly useful, bar perhaps the aforementioned body-suits, which although editorially striking, may be a little more tricksy to work into any typical circumstance that initially springs to mind. The inky, generously hooded shearling parkas are instantly desirable, as are the gnarled army surplus knits and cotton tanks in that perfect shade of smokey anthracite. But it’s the unisex, outsized sweaters, beautifully constructed yet rough around the edges, that you could really see yourself wearing forever.
West has been clever. He has put just enough of himself into this collaboration – hero pieces such as the camo separates and drop shouldered bomber jackets smack of recognition with “West: the brand” – to make it aspirational, yet left the collection canvas-like in it’s quality, so that customers can see themselves in it too, without having to try too hard.
The decision to have a mass release of the collaboration, as opposed to a staggered global drop seems an obvious one, especially when you consider the transient purposes West had in mind when designing. “I wanted something that felt like New York or Paris or Tokyo or Santa Barbara or Chicago—a worldliness and an ease.”
Rounding off the collection are a number of new footwear releases, the highly anticipated Yeezy Boosts 750 and 350 as well as the Yeezy 950 boots for men and platform snow boots for women. Roll on winter.
adidas Originals by Kanye West – Yeezy Season 1 is in stores now. Prices start from $130.
Harmony Korine’s latest film, Spring Breakers, is a controversial take on the American rite of party passage. Opening Ceremony decided to bottle up the Kids writer’s latest work of social commentary into an equally wild ride of a collection.
Created by costume designer Heidi Bivens, the result is a neon-hued, sportswear casual range of sweatpants, mesh tops, wristbands, bandanas and of course, bikinis, topped off with slogans and artwork produced in collaboration with NY artist REAS.
Keep calm and party on in these laidback threads.
The Opening Ceremony x Spring Breakers collection is now available exclusively at the Opening Ceremony boutique in London and online
J.W. Anderson started his eponymous label in 2008, but it wasn’t until Autumn Winter 2011 that he created his first capsule collection for women. Fast forward a year, last fashion week to be exact, and his collaboration with Topshop was released to the world. After the great success of his high street debut, this fashion week sees J.W. x Topshop return for Spring Summer 2013. His signature styles and pieces are still evident, but have been given new life in more futuristic fabrics and muted hues.
“This collection was more about youth cultural groups. The girl has evolved. It’s about carrying over the idea of iconic pieces that can be worn over and over and re-working staple looks from the J.W. Anderson wardrobe,” says the designer.
Evolving from the previous collection, key pieces such as the kilt and motif jumpers are not only reworked in different fabrics but given a more laid back, modern twist. Expect neoprene and vinyl in a pale lilac and beige pleated midi skirts as well as Harrington jackets. A simple gingham or striped shirt, polo tee and duffle bag are all branded with the J.W. logo and will be seen on many at Somerset House this week.
J.W. Anderson x Topshop Spring Summer 2013 launches today in selected Topshop stores and online.
What do you get when you combine one of the most influential designers from the East with one of the most prestigious luxury brands of the West? A limited edition line of silk scarves entitled Comme des Carrés to be exact.
Fusing together Rei Kawakubo’s eye for the all things off-kilter with Hermès’ reputation for craftsmanship and quality, the capsule collection is comprised of five Black and White styles in everyone’s favourite non-colours, plus six Colour scarves printed with geometric patterns such as gingham and stripes. The former will be exclusive to Comme des Garçons stores in Paris, New-York and Aoyama-Tokyo, whilst the latter will be launched at the Dover Street Market retail venues in London and Tokyo.
“In our project together, rather than wanting to wear the scarves, I was looking forward to the change that would happen when I added something to the beautiful ‘paintings’ of Hermès scarf designs. I think through the addition of abstract images, we have transformed the scarf and created something new,” explains Kawakubo.
Dr Martens is shining a more polished shoe these days, thanks to the brand’s collaboration with menswear designer A. Sauvage.
The two-years-young label created a more elegant take on what is perched atop those famous, light air cushioned soles: colours of midnight blue, white and black, in fabrics ranging from patent leather to woven kente silk.
A very street venture for the Mayfair-based label and a rather high-end approach for the punkish footwear brand, this unisex range is a prime example of what happens when you think outside of the (shoe) box.
A.P.C. has teamed up with Nike for a collection of casually cool kicks.
The brand founded by Jean Touitou in 1987 has garnered a cult following thanks to its minimalist but covetable styles. Putting a French spin on the sportswear brand’s timeless Dunk and Air Max styles, the collaboration brings a more sophisticated touch to the wardrobe staple, thanks to muted colours such as navy, ecru and brown, plus suede paneling.
Following the A.P.C. mantra of the most desirable wardrobe items being those that whisper instead of shout, we say strike while the iron is hot.
A.P.C. + Nike launches tomorrow and will be available exclusively through A.P.C.‘s retail stores and online shop.
Originally from Fraserburgh, Scotland, Louise Gray has managed to make herself stand out amongst the sea of young designers in London thanks to her eye-catching designs and punky fun attitude.
From towering mohawks and geometric prints for A/W 12 to her quirkily clashing dresses for S/S 11, the designer’s creations always manage to be a refreshing addition to the RTW circuit.
Gray’s latest project is a clothing and makeup collaboration with high street giant Topshop. “I’ve captured the woman I emulate in the show and the idea that individualism and expressing yourself through fashion is cool,” she says. This concept translates into a range of fully sequined shift dresses, jogging trousers and T-shirts, alongside lipsticks, blushes and eyeliners in fluorescent hues.
Whether you prefer to dress down each standout piece with casual basics or decide to go for a head to toe Louis Gray look, take a cue from the designer herself and simply “have fun with it”.
Louise Gray for Topshop will be available on August 23 in stores and online.
Ralph Lauren is a brand that has always been synonymous with traditional Americana style. However, thanks to its Denim & Supply diffusion line and the resulting collaboration with EDM recording artist Avicii, the household label shows that an urban aesthetic is just as much part of its repertoire.
The 22-year-old DJ not only stars as the face of the Fall 2012 collection, but has also created an exclusive remix of his new single Silhouettes for the accompanying campaign film.
Showcasing an effortlessly relaxed style throughout, the brand proves that it can do contemporary just as well as classic.
At first glance, Yayoi Kusama and the house of Louis Vuitton may not seem like the most harmonious couple. One is an eccentric artist known for her psychedelic installations, the other is a luxurious and world-renowned label under the multi-billion pound LVMH helm. However, just like in one of the Japanes artist’s polka dot paintings, there is more than meets the eye.
Both Kusama and Vuitton embody the idea of plunging oneself headfirst into an artistic vision. As much as the flame red-haired Kusama is an artwork in her own right, the house of Louis Vuitton, under the guidance of Marc Jacobs, has made train journey and carousel ride runway shows a continuously extraordinary event of the Ready To Wear season, year in, year out.
This month sees the release of the duo’s range of clothing, accessories and footwear, all covered in Kusama’s signature polka dot prints, coinciding with the opening of the artist’s exhibition at the Whitney Museum of American Art. On August 24, Kusama’s designs for the house will also take over London department store Selfridges with a 24-window display showcasing the new collection, as well as the transformation of the Concept Store inside, thanks to the artist’s signature giant pumpkins. The idea of fashion being art may seem like a tired cliche, but Yayoi Kusama and Louis Vuitton prove there is still a lot of exciting invigoration to bring to the table.
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