London streetwear brand Aries recently launched their partnership with British luxury brand Hillier Bartley on the creation of a one-of-a-kind charm jewellery collection released earlier this week. The capsule collection is composed of 7 different charms to be worn on Hillier Bartley’s 14K gold plated paper clip earring or co-branded necklace. References from both brands are featured in the collection like an Aries Roman Column, pentagram, ket, throwing star among others . For the partnership the two brands took the opportunity to invite students from City and Islington College for a 3 day multidisciplinary arts workshop in February which spoke to branding, product development, fashion communication, art and photography and each student presented their creation in a variety of formats including film , painting, graphics , clothing, accessories and more. Throughout the process, the sessions were filmed and the students captured in their creative elements by photographer and Aries collaborator Clare Shilland. All of the imagery from the workshop is also set to be included in a book designed by Art Director Jonny Lu and made into a short film directed by Jeremy Pollard.
“This will be our second collaboration with Aries. What we love about collaborating with Sofia is the community that gets involved.. Our last collaboration really was both teams exploring and making and creating.. both HB and Aries teams have played a huge part in the collaboration process .. I think the work with the students was a really special part of this project, and has inspired us all.. The act of collaboration is often simplified, but pared back it’s what business is all about.. co-ordinating together to create new ideas, trust and an appreciation of a diversity of ideas.. we are really proud of this wonderful project…” commented Katie Hillier, Co-Founder, Hillier Bartley.
As a solution to our quarantine woes, Twin recently caught up with Cécile Wallon creator behind Parisian glass jewels and beads label Sis Joía. The handmade jewellery brand has been known for its special personal touch, pieced together with glass, quartz and crystal beads collected over time on elastic wires . During these difficult times, small gestures like these matter more than anything. Keeping in mind the importance of noticing what surrounds us and how things evolves. Which is why our contributor Amanda Ballerini engaged her dear friend Wallon in conversation discussing inspiration, quarantine finds, habit and much more.
Tell me a bit about you and your Sisi Joía. How did it all begin?
So I’m 29, and after a few years in the fashion retail industry, I had a baby and suddenly a lot of time (well the first few months) to think about what I wanted for the next few years. A question that was a little to big, so the first answer was: I would like to have something beautiful to gather my curtains. I knew this lady who was selling antique beads at the flea market near my house, so I went, in search of some supplies to start making beautiful curtain tiebacks. I never made those, instead I crafted a few elastic bracelets that were easy to take on and off (with a baby…) and showed it to my friends. They were so enthusiastic with the result it convinced me to start making a small jewellery line. And here we are!
Did you ever think of creating something like this in the past?
I’ve always been keen on crafts and handmade things, but more things for the home. However, I’ve been nourished and fed by all the beautiful things and costume jewellery I was selling at my previous job at Vanessa Seward’s. She was especially good at this , from working for numerous years as an accessories designer at Chanel.
Tell me a bit about the connection you developed with the glass maker/blower. How did it happen?
Well I used to live in the neighbourhood of this old store that was never open. One day, they finally had sort of like a Christmas sale, and I bought so many beautiful things for my home. For several years, I didn’t think of it, and then I found one of their glass drops at the flea market. It fit perfectly with the necklaces I was developing, so I started to look for more… and after 2 months of calling the shop and passing by every week, I finally got in touch with Youssef, the owner.
He’s Syrian, and moved to Germany, then France, some 20 years ago. Now he works with a partner, a lady who goes every couple of month to Damascus to select the works of their glass blower (who collects glass debris and recycle it in a traditional brick oven) and have them transported back by boat to their workshop, where they assemble the pieces to make lamps and other beautiful things. They are very discreet but their lamps sell all over the world. Now they allow me to purchase some glass drops, glass blowers and beads to make my pieces.
How’s the everyday life of a creative Parisian mum like you are? Do you have some kind of daily schedule you follow?
It’s busy, as my schedule revolves around my son’s hours: daycare, going to the library, the park, etc. But I get to work following my own schedule during the day, until around 4 when I pick him up. Then the day stops and we focus on being with him. Then, at night, as soon as he’s asleep, my second day begins and I work packing my orders and crafting the pieces.
Where would you ideally be living, if it weren’t Paris?
Actually we’re in the process of moving a little further from Paris, in a suburban town near a bigger park, with more nature and a “greener” municipal area, which is super important to us.
What do you do when something makes you sad?
I try to change my mind and create anything, a little bowl with auto-hardening clay, tie dye a vintage panty .
Keep up with Cécile and her Sisi Joia ventures @sisijoia .
Storytelling – synonymous with the meaning of jewellery. From wedding rings, birthday necklaces, celebratory bracelets, the concept of jewellery as symbolic of a tale is a natural role it continues to play.
This is vey much the case for Danish based jeweller Orit Elhanati.
From searching the past as much as the present for symbolism reworked into contemporary elegance and at times somewhat biomorphic shapes, Elhanati feeds into the notion of what we define as a modern woman. Not shy of her past and its impact, nor fearful of what the future can unfurl.
We spoke to Orit about her cross-cultural approach to design, the textural possibility of 18 carat gold and the protective powers something so close to your skin can bring.
What inspires you?
I am inspired by my environment and people around me. Nature, the sea, the clean lines of the desert, rocks and nature is deeply inspiring to me. I am not religious, but I believe in these greater powers that have such a force, that we cannot comprehend. Each thing I create, whether it be a piece of jewellery or something in my home, is somehow inspired by all these different places and people. It is very important to me that there is a feeling behind everything I do. I am in love with the works of Zara Hadid that has incredible ways of creating beautiful, yet functional design with soft and curvy lines. Gaudi’s mysterious universe as well as Henri Matisse’s sensual lines and touch to name a few have inspired me.
Why did you choose to launch a jewellery brand ?
Gold has always fascinated me. I have always been infatuated with my grandmother and her friends sitting on the porch in Tel Aviv dripping in gold. This has imprinted itself in my mind and has followed me throughout my life – I love the way jewellery is made to be passed on through generations and becomes a part of the woman and her story. I remember the exact moment when I knew it was my calling – I have never looked back since, and have had ELHANATI since 2011.
Has this reason evolved or changed since your brand’s inception? You are now doing a range of both fine jewellery pieces and more costume jewellery styles: was this diversion part of the plan?
18K gold has always been my preferred material. I love the texture of the gold, I love working with it. However, the main thing for me is creating, and I love having a larger canvas as you can with demifine and limited collections, so this is something that has been a part of ELHANATI from the start, with other things in the pipeline too.
You have a cross-cultural approach to your designs: how does each part of your heritage manifest in your jewellery?
I am a Danish jewellery designer with roots in Israel. I create handmade jewellery from our atelier in Copenhagen, drawing inspiration from the Nordic lightness and minimalism and mysterious energy and surroundings from the Middle East. I only work in 18K solid recycled yellow gold: I am in love with the feeling of working with it, creating textures. Everything I do is connected to nature, so this texture helps me tell stories. The yellow gold I always use, has a direct connection to the Middle East. Many of the things I create are stories about the streets of Jerusalem, the path to the dead sea, the textures of the mountains, cliffs and desert lines. There is also a symbolic meaning connected to the pendants on the necklaces, that protect and empower the bearer.
How do you see the jewellery landscape evolving after this year?
I have always been designing jewellery for men, and bespoke pieces, and I can see the demand is increasing for both of these types of jewellery, so this is something I think we will see more of next year. I am currently working on some amazing projects that I cannot say more about just at present. I can say it something I am very excited about. I love pushing myself and learning new things and working on new projects and collaborations creates something very magical and a completely different universe in my work. I have been really lucky to work with some amazing talents.
Twin takes a deeper dive into the jewellery and RTW brand Lacuna, based in Paris
An unfilled space; a gap. It feels like a statement definition already, with the designer Annabelle calling her namesake brand Lacuna. While it also happens to be Annabelle’s last name, it seems fitting to look at the meaning from both angles.
Lacuna is a brand with a grown up elegance but a sensual sensibility, matching Annabelle’s design pedigree within Chloe, Cerruti, Kenzo and now Margiela designing under Galliano the show collections.
Seeding out these sensual and undoubtably mesmerising images of her first collection entitled ‘Serpent I’, within her jewellery we see beautiful beady eyes resting on a deep reddish gold that wraps over hands, loops under ear, swirls around necks. Beautiful peachy pearls and shimmery little Swarovski baubles drift amongst dark petroleum-black planet pearls.
Introducing the brand via her perfectly executed look book, Lacuna takes a classic introductory format and makes it sexy: she reminds us of the evocative powers of jewellery, of the way it can emphasise, flatter, signal something unsaid.
Photographed by the German photographer Marlon Rüberg and styled by Annabelle herself, you can see this is a brand Annabelle has planned for a while. Keeping the team intimate is reflected adamantly in the imagery – room for spontaneity and happy accidents, but clearly polished until it reached a standard Annabelle was happy to brand as her own.
This is not to mention the wonderful hand painted concise collection photographed alongside: a rose overlaid on a python in blues, yellows and red. Stiff silks in kimono shapes and slinky slips drip off the model’s frame.
Lacuna is a cosmic brand: refined but contemporary – the feeling that it is slightly intergalactic with these biomorphic forms floating on gold wires in unfilled space.
We anticipate great things in her future explorations of deep jewellery space.
What made you begin your brand?
I have lived and worked in Paris as a womenswear designer for the last ten years- at many different houses and for different sort of creative directors. I wanted to continue doing that and at the same time start working on a personal project. I chose fantasy jewellery as it’s a product that is not connected to my daily work but I had always interest in and I’m a collector… I researched for weeks in all kinds of libraries and museums which was amazing to do, I wanted to give it time to grow. I found the best jewellery ateliers in France to work together with as well as an amazing atelier for my hand painted pieces.
Who photographed and styled the look book?
Marlon Rüberg is a German photographer and director who shot my look book in Milan, where he also lives and works. He is a very good friend of mine who I met when we were both living in London more than ten years ago. He’s very talented, we share the same references and I knew that he could translate exactly what I had in mind and create a lot more to it than I had imagined. I trust him completely. I styled it myself- for my first look book I wanted to keep the team small and intimate. I like to be prepared and we planned out each shot- but I also like to see what happens on set when everything comes together … I like to try out new things spontaneously on the spot and see what happens.
What was the inspiration behind your first collection?
I went far back in my memory and landed at one of my first fashion obsessions that I could remember. My mother used to wear very colourful printed, Philippine exotic house dresses or caftans at home, which was very unconventional growing up in German suburbia and she also used to wear very decadent and chic 80s jewellery on special occasions like receptions or cocktails (my dad used to work for the Philippine government).
All the dresses are hand painted and have different kind of techniques on them, the colours are all mixed by hand. Each piece of my jewellery collection is single, the hand pieces as well as the earrings- I wanted a unique look.
What did you want to explore in your look book imagery?
I wanted to present my pieces in a sensual but also sculptural way- that’s why I choose the milk bath scene, the model floating on (fake) fur…
What are your enduring interests.
I’m always looking at new exhibitions of artists, photographers, sculptors, painters, but also vintage books and magazines … I’m interested to see new aesthetics, mediums, point of views and I’m always happy to meet new people who I can learn from and work together with
Why do you think look books are important?
For me, editorial, video, look books, any sort of image that accompanies a project, is the ultimate visual diary to show the vision of the brand, its world. Every aspect should look considered. For my next project I would like to focus more on the printed version.
Do you think attitudes in fashion are changing?
The only ‘trend’ or attitude I support at the moment and hope will endure is the sustainability and recycling one in terms of how fashion is being made and produced. But in general I think fashion attitudes go cyclical and one movement will always trigger the counter movement.
What do you want your audience to take away from your brand?
I want it to become synonymous for an avant-garde and extravagant look.
What powers does jewellery hold?
When you buy it for yourself, it’s empowering. As a gift, it can become very memorable- when it’s family jewellery or from your loved one.
What powers does clothing hold?
It’s empowerment and disguise at the same time.
What was the last thing that made you excited?
Coming to a conclusion what my next project will be about! A lot of different ideas have been going through my head, I was with a friend and talked and talked and talked- and it all became clear.
Gabrielle Chanel was said to have been one who lived a figurative lacquered box where sailing ships, palaces, flowers and birds plaited in flashes of gold and deep red stood out against the darkness of light. This fantasy landscape meant so much to her that she often wished to always carry this fantasy in a portable form. This was how her love for Coromandel screens was first discovered in 1910 on a journey with her great love Boy Capel. “The first time I saw a coromandel screen, I cried out: It’s so beautiful! I had never said that about any other object,” said Madame Chanel.
The French fashion house which lives in on in her name recently chose to honour their founder’s passion with a high jewellery collection of fifty-nine pieces inspired by coromandel screens. The collection includes twenty-four pieces which are entirely unique with reworked motifs around the themes of floral, noticeably evoking her signature flower, the Camellia; animal, through the bestiary of Coromandel; and mineral, reflecting her love of crystal and gemstones.
The Fleur De Laque Necklace
The designer was undoubtedly greatly inspired by the intricacies of these Chinese Coromandels which often included art of flora and faunas. She would muse upon the screens and attach photographs and drawings to create a sort of moodboard or theatre in which she would often immerse herself. “When I look at this screen in the evening for example,”she continued, “ I see doors opening and knights setting off on a horseback.”
At the heart of this animal theme, the workshop captures a flock of in flight birds as they appear on some of the designer’s screens in an ornament diamond right that boasts over ten carats. The collection’s gems also calls on the colours of the Coromandel lacquers which includes the greens of the Tsavorite garnet, emeralds and the over thirty-seven carat tourmaline on the “Vibration Minérale” ring; the red spinel on the “Evocation Florale” ring and the ruby beads and deep hypnotic black lacquer transposed onto the onyx. To shop or view the full collection visit CHANEL.
Emerging Italian jewellery brand anGostura , is a brand conceived by designer Giulia Tavani who drew inspiration from the meaning behind the word — an aromatic bitter bark from South American trees, used as a flavouring for cocktails and formerly as a tonic to reduce fevers. The designer describes the birth of her jewellery line as her way of giving a bitter, yet mandatory punch to the cocktail of life itself. Endorsed by the mother of soul herself, Erykah Badu, the collections often feature unique chunks of silver and gold carved into interesting forms which when worn are often seen as poetry to the body.
For her latest collection the designer drew inspiration from the biological term symbiosis — a long-term relationship between two or more organisms living closely together. The form of symbiosis she chose to focus on was communalism, which is the type of relationship where each organism benefits equally from the arrangement and depends on the other for survival. This is how Tavani envisioned her jewels in relation to the human form, “I want them to be seen as not just ornaments but decorated extensions of the human body.” The collection is a collaboration with wig designer Ilaria Soncini which includes dark stones, semi precious natural stones, gold and silver jewels, hats and also uniquely fashioned wigs. For more information visit their site at anGostura.
South London based jewellery designer Joy BC specialises in creating bespoke designs that embody both the anthropological and physiological sides of jewellery. Her work spans a range of themes, from ideas around protecting people while travelling; to remembering the dead; to celebrating love to more simple examination of form. Her aim is to use jewellery to engender conversation, imbuing fine jewellery with new and heightened significance. Ahead of her workshops at Draw Haus, Twin caught up with Joy BC to discuss the possibilities of silver and her collaborative ethos.
How did you become interested in jewellery?
It started with a ring which was made by one of my ancestors in Italy. It resembles a futurist sculpture. My mother use to wear it on special occasions and I found it hypnotic. I drew comparisons between the form and feeling that that ring gave me to those within Brancusi’s pieces and Barbara Hepworth’s. Otto Kunzli, a jewellery artist who made a necklace made from divorcees’ wedding bands, which subsequently became an emotionally laden piece, and thus un-wearable, really excited me in how powerful jewellery can be.
What are you influenced and inspired by?
A variety of things. Sometimes it’s simply the materials, and their intrinsic beauty.
Why is important to use jewellery as a tool for engendering conversation?
Jewellery travels with with you – lives with you and speaks for you. Without words it can convey messages or feelings. A huge Hellenistic marble sculpture which conveys strength (Nike at the lure, for example) isn’t something that you can strap to your body – but a boobies ring which encourages discussion on the natural way of breast feeding, or female nudity – literally ‘freeing the nipple’ – is something that you can. The ‘listening aids’ I make are to encourage people to be better listeners, something we could all benefit from. Especially myself! I talk way too much; it’s the Italian in me! In fact I’m currently wearing my ‘I’m all ears’ piece, which is made of 47 tiny ears in precious silver and gold, while I listen to the news of the news.
What are the limitations of working with silver? And do you have a favourite material to work with?
Limitations? I’ve never thought of the limitations of silver, only the possibilities. It oxidises, which gold doesn’t. However I like that – I often use a chemical to speed up the oxidisation process to create a dark blue black patina on some of my work. I don’t have a favourite material, but I have to say, 18ct yellow gold is delicious. I also love wax – especially the type I used in Tokyo which was made of beeswax and cedar resin. They use that combination to make traditional Kenji Stamps (then cast into bronze). And it smells beautiful.
What do you hope to achieve through your workshops at Draw Haus?
I hope people really enjoy themselves, and help people making something that they feel proud of. Whether it’s a playful experiment or precise present for himself or herself or someone they care about. It’s always fascinating to see what pieces people make.
Draw Haus Creative Workshops: Jewellery Making with Joy BC will take place on 17th November. Buy tickets here.
Rosh Mahtani, founder and designer of London based jewellery label Alighieri, has collaborated with Ozzie designer Anna Quan which sees them together explore the boundary between jewellery and ready to wear. Their collaborative collection includes jewellery intertwined with a shirt, shirtdress and palazzo trousers along with a selection of jewellery by Alighieri for Anna Quan. We caught up with Rosh to discover more about this collaboration.
Tell us how you started off in industry?
I studied French and Italian literature at university – my final year was focused on Dante Alighieri, and the Divine Comedy. After I graduated, I knew I wanted to do something creative; I felt a little bit lost, and kept reading the text. I couldn’t help but imagine the characters, the feelings and descriptions in golden objects; that’s when I started making one piece of jewellery for each one of Dante’s 100 poems. Creating Alighieri was a way to pursue photography, writing, and designing alongside business and strategy.
Why Dante?
So many reasons! His work is so visual, firstly; he was the first person to portray Hell, Purgatory and Paradise in such a human way. But more that, his journey is so universal, it really captured me. It begins with him, lost in the middle of a dark wood. His fears, his anger at being exiled from Florence, his love for an idealised woman (Beatrice) are at the crux of his work, and I suppose I wanted to translate these feelings in my own way, as they were so relatable to me.
How would you describe your design aesthetic?
I call my pieces Modern Heirlooms, because I love creating imperfect objects that tell a story. Imperfection and vulnerability are at the heart of the aesthetic, and that’s why I like to shoot the imagery using film. It’s all about the happy accidents; I work very much on intuition.
How did the collaboration with Anna Quan come about?
Anna is based in Australia and we were following each other’s work over Instagram for a quite while, we swapped an earring for a crisp white shirt over the ocean, and we met last Christmas, when I was on a bit of a disastrous road-trip in Australia! We had breakfast in Sydney, and talked about giant golden buttons on her perfectly tailored shirts, and billowing trousers. It happened really organically.
Why do you think the partnership works?
We have quite a similar aesthetic in some ways, and a genuine obsession with each other’s work. I live in oversized white shirts and tailored trousers. It’s also a great juxtaposition because Anna’s designs are so perfectly executed, the tailoring is immaculate, and it was fun to have that as a canvas to add a scraggy and imperfect detail. We work really well together (often over 3am Whatsapp conversations!) We’ll think of an idea and just get the ball rolling. DHL plays their part too!
What qualities do you admire about her?
Besides her obvious talent for creating clothing that makes you feel really special, the giant oversized cuffs, for instance, I really admire her work ethic. She never stops, and is also incredibly grounded and modest. She’s a very savvy businesswoman which is really inspiring to be around.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years?
I’d like to keep growing Alighieri as a brand; it’s been the best and most rewarding ride, and I’d like to create more than just jewellery, as I think of Alighieri as a way to tell stories. If I can keep doing what I’m doing now on a bigger scale, with a bigger team, I would be very happy!
Ever since Roksanda burst onto the scene in 1999, the CSM graduate has been making a name for herself with bold, sleek and playful designs. This season she received particular attention for her effervescent jumpsuits and perfect cropped flares and we’re counting down the days until we can start sporting her SS16 collection. But to stop the gap until next summer the Serbian born designer has launched her debut jewellery collection, out today.
A covetable piece from Roksanda’s debut jewellery line
This is the latest in a range of RTW offshoots which includes blossom, her children’s line and a swimwear range. The collection is classically Roksanda, with surprising and thoughtful pairings of geometric and organic forms that clearly pay homage to her architectural training.
Available exclusively in her Mount Street store, the collection consists of earrings, brooches, necklaces and bracelets, all of which are gold plated. Dropping just in time for Christmas, we’re adding them to our dream wish list.
Prices start from £510. Roksanda, 9 Mount St, London W1K 3NG.
During London Fashion Week, Delfina Delettrez launched her first store in London, on Mayfair’s Mount St. Collaborating with Rafael de Cárdenas of Architecture at Large on the design, the new space continues her exploration of materials and shapes, combining traditional Italian design is with a futuristic aesthetic. “I like the element of distortion, the illusion of floating stones, projected on floating windows, and the malachite trompe l’oeil,” says Delettrez.
The store showcases the full collection, including the Italian jewellery designer’s signature ‘Piercing’ rings and earrings, in her original use of figurative surrealism and natural iconography including, eyes, bees and lips.
Delfina Delettrez is located at 109 Mount Street, London W1K 2TR
It was the loss of her favourite gold necklace that caused Erin O’Connor to want to open her own store. Realising first hand just how attached to jewellery we are – how they hold such sentimental value – she knew what she wanted to do. Nearly one year later, Pärla is becoming the go-to boutique for contemporary, hand-made jewellery.
“I love good quality, simple design with clean shapes and silhouettes, and how jewellery can really bring that to life,” states Erin as we sit down to talk all things Pärla. This scandi sensibility is very clear to see when you walk into the Boxpark store, “It’s something I’m very passionate about, working with products and people I love.” When buying stock, her considered approach leans towards versatility, picking pieces that can be interpreted in different ways. The name Pärla reflects this; not only does it mean pearl in Swedish, but it can also be translated to mean gem or jewel too.
The eight designers she represents are all establishing themselves, and Erin has created a close-nit family and a place for them to support each other. What about other brands on her radar? “Acne and Celine; I love the cuffs they’ve created this season. And Moxham, I think [Maddie] is very talented, her pieces are so cool. Like V Jewellery and Jessie Harris, you can style it in your own way” As for the high-end brands, we’ll have to wait, as accessibility is key for Pärla. “Whether you’ve a gap in your wardrobe or looking for a gift, tell me your budget and I’ll find you something.”
It’s this personal shopping service that makes Erin, and her boutique, stand out. Her close relationship with the designers allows her to go the extra mile for those wanting to purchase the perfect little something. Maybe the chain on a necklace is too long, perhaps you’d like a certain ring in silver not gold, or you’d like something engraved. All these little changes are possible at Pärla. As is opening the store at 8am to try on jewels on your way to work, “whatever you need – I’ll sort it.”
We couldn’t leave without talking current trends, and Erin confirmed our suspicions, chokers are the thing. Has her personal style changed since surrounding herself with these great designers and brands? “I’m a lot more open minded when it comes to jewellery now. I used to only wear gold, now I love to mix and match. I’ll even pick my jewellery before I pick my outfit now.” And what about that one piece, the one you’d wear if you could only wear one forever? “That’s a tough one, but I’d wear my [V Jewellery] Spine Ring forever. It’s so easy to wear and goes with everything.”
London born and based jewellery designer Rachel Boston showed her first fine jewellery collection at London Fashion Week. Full of beautifully wrought, geometric pieces, the items in the collection have the potential to become treasured heirlooms. Twin chats to the New Designer of the Year nominee.
When did you decide you wanted to go into jewellery design? I knew that I wanted to design jewellery from very early on. I always liked working with my hands so would use my parent’s toolbox and take apart my sister’s jewellery and put it back together in different ways – which I’m sure she didn’t enjoy too much. I then started basing all my projects in my Design and Technology class around jewellery so that I could build up my portfolio and work towards getting in to a jewellery course at university, which I did.
Why did you decide to study at the Gemological Institute in New York rather than stay in the UK? I grew up in London and also stayed here for university at Central Saint Martins, so really felt like I needed to experience what it was like to live somewhere else, even for a short while. New York has always had such an allure to it for me that when I found out they did the course there it seemed crazy not grab the opportunity. It was the best decision I ever made. I met so many amazing people on the course from all over the world but also met my boyfriend whilst living out there and we’ve been doing long distance for almost 3 years now, which seems crazy to most people but works really well for us.
You showed your first fine jewellery collection at LFW; why did you decide to move into fine jewellery? Making jewellery that wasn’t trend based and seasonal has always been very important to me. I’ve wanted to create pieces that could be worn forever and passed on as gifts to others so I decided it was necessary that the materials reflected this also. The price point is higher because it’s 18ct gold now instead of plated, but you have the reassurance that these are pieces that will not tarnish, the gold will not fade and you can theoretically pass these onto your grandchildren and they will stay in good condition. The history and the meaning that is given to jewellery and how people become attached to it is one of the reasons I fell in love with it in the first place, so making fine jewellery has happened very naturally.
Do you craft each piece by hand yourself? I do. As of right now every piece is made in my studio off Hatton Garden (London’s jewellery district) and all the materials are sourced locally. As the business keeps growing this won’t be feasible for me making every piece as it’s a huge amount of work but I’d like to keep it in the studio and based in the UK as I’m a big supporter for British craftsmanship.
What is your favourite piece so far?
It changes all the time but from the new fine collection I think the Jera ear cuffs or the hinged Dagaz ring. The hinged ring is really comfortable and I barely notice I’m wearing it so it’s a great statement piece you can wear everyday. I love the Jera earrings because they fit the ear really nicely and I have the white sapphires specially cut here in London so I they’re very special because it’s such an unusual cut to have.
What is your favourite item of jewellery? Earrings, necklaces, bracelets or rings? With me more is always more so I like layering necklaces, playing with different lengths and piling rings on for more of a statement. I tend to dress quite casually for the studio, generally just jeans, plain tee and a leather jacket so I love wearing a lot of rings to create more of a statement.
What are the key jewellery trends coming up for SS15? The market is definitely leaning more towards fine jewellery these days, which I’m really happy about. I think people are starting to realise how much better it is to invest in one significant piece then spending lots of little bits of money on high street jewellery which falls apart so quickly.
What are your plans for your brand – where will you be this time next year? I’m doing a lot more bespoke engagement ring work which I adore doing. It’s a huge honour to be asked to create someone’s ring that they intend to wear forever and I love working with couples to create something unique, so I definitely would like to do more of that. Otherwise I want the brand to keep growing both in the UK market and internationally and at some point open a small store in London.
What would your advice be to someone who wants to go into jewellery design? I think it’s important to learn patience and how to figure out your own path and style. I definitely think you have to build a strong foundation on the technical side as well and not just fob it off and give everything to someone else to do for you, you don’t learn that way and you don’t end up pushing yourself.
Who is your ultimate jewellery/fashion inspiration? Most of my favourite fashion muses are from bygone eras but I love the androgynous style of my heroines like Patti Smith and Joan Jett; they exude this amazingly powerful energy and are such strong women so anything they wear looks automatically cool.
It seems, this season, that the world of fashion is still captivated by the roaring twenties. Chanel’s new fine jewellery collection of geometric shapes, dripping in diamonds, evokes art-deco glamour, accompanied by the romantic backstory of the legendary Gabrielle Chanel’s stratospheric social rise and her love of the ‘café society’.
Within the collection, the Symphony series, a composition of light around different diamond cuts, features a long string of jewels looking almost like bars of music. Likewise, the Charleston series’ square medallions and fringes of gemstones conjure up the elegance of days gone by.
The house of Chanel was born at a time when society was starting to rebel against puritan conventions. Arts were on the rise – the ‘cult of talent’ would create an aristocracy of taste, as poets, musicians and socialites flocked to the French Riviera to carouse in the sunshine. The decade was known for extreme extravagance – and what better way to bring it back than a collection drenched in diamonds?
London’s jewellery scene is full of innovative talent. Emerging designers are everywhere you look. Rachel Entwistle is certainly at the forefront. Inspired by different cultures and her travels to Mexico, Guatemala and India, Rachel’s philosophy is deeply rooted in her love of anthropology, symbolism and mysticism. Twin caught up with the East London jeweller to talk Thor & Wistle, primitive man and what it’s like to win two awards at once…
What started off your passion for jewellery design? As a teenager I was always into clothing and jewellery and often up-cycled pieces I found in charity shops and made my own things. It was in Mexico though that my passion really took off – there are so many jewellery artisans there, great silversmiths and access to gemstones precious metals and jewellery materials made it an easy place to get inspired and start making. I began making with artisans in a very low key fashion and loved hanging out in their workshops. I then went on to study in Taxco which is the silver capital of Mexico and it all went from there.
When did you decide to start your own label? I didn’t really decide, it was just what I was doing and loved doing. It evolved naturally. I was living and travelling in Mexico and then stayed to study jewellery manufacture. I started to approach galleries and boutiques with my first pieces in Mexico and then continued when I came back to the UK. I was working from my bedroom in Hackney to start with and very quickly outgrew it and moved into my first studio by London Fields.
What inspires your designs most? I have a background studying Cultural Studies and have always loved travelling – my interest in culture, symbolism, anthropology are the roots of my inspiration – I love to explore the hidden meaning of objects and cultural stories behind forms. For me jewellery needs to have a significance and a narrative that connects the design, the designer and the wearer.
Tell us a little about Thor & Wistle, how did the store come about? Thor & Wistle was a natural progression for myself and Kamilla Thorsen who I co-own the store with. We had been sharing a studio for a while and renting out various pop-up spaces when we had a very successful stint on Columbia Road with a pop-up for the Christmas period of 2011. It was a great opportunity for us to manage a space and really get to know our customers and the people who really get our designs plus a chance to think about display. As the lease came to a close in Jan 2012 we realised we were ready to take on our own space. Bizarrely the Thor & Wistle premises was the first place we looked at and we signed the lease that day. We have our store, offices and studio on site and the space is perfect for us. Kind of felt like it was meant to be really!
What was it about primitive man that sparked your interest for AW14? I am really drawn to tribal and primitive jewellery and love the thought that man has always adorned himself with a purpose – amulets and talismans that protect or manifest. I travelled to Indonesia last year and the jewellery and body adornment from Papua New Guinea really inspired my thought process and I began to explore the idea of primitive man and how ancient symbols can be translated into a modern context but still maintain that essence of strength and meaning. I like my jewellery to have a raw, primal and organic feeling but also an urban edge.
What was it like to win both Jewellery Designer of the Year and Boutique Retailer of the Year at the Retail Jewellery Awards 2014? Unbelievable! It is such an honour to receive two awards at once. And such a surprise. To receive the ultimate recognition of Designer of the Year is incredible as I was up against some really great designers. I feel really happy to be recognised. We had just celebrated our second birthday at Thor & Wistle the week before the awards and so to receive the award for Boutique Retailer at the same time was really exciting and a great achievement considering we have only been established for such short space of time.
V Jewellery is a relatively new brand, one that should already be on your radar but if it’s not, take note. Grown from a love of vintage design, Creative Director Laura Vann noticed a gap in the market, one where affordability and quality should meet.
“When we began it was all about looking at themes and reoccurring styles that had survived the test of time and celebrating those,” states Laura. “I just started drawing; bought loads of art deco books and looked at old auction catalogues and took inspiration from those, analysing the shapes and styles.” Fast forward two seasons, V Jewellery is now about to launch its third collection and is stocked in around 90 stores in Ireland and the UK.
Having never studied jewellery design, Laura uses traditional forms of designing – old fashion drawing, using pen to paper, but it’s never a chore. “It’s pretty easy when designing for your own demographic – I just ask myself if I’d wear this.” As the brand grows stronger and its audience, larger, Twin headed to Birmingham to met with the V team and created this film with director Hazel O’Brien.
When Twin visited Fashion Sunday at Oval Space recently, we fell for Jessie Harris’s jewellery designs. Even more so when she shed light on her most recent collaboration with another Twin favourite, Danielle Foster. Having met last summer, the two designers recognised similarities in each others design ethos, both favouring strong, clean shapes and a minimal, modern aesthetic. “Danielle was really interested in working on some custom bag hardware, which was the starting point and a perfect bridge between our different areas of design,” stated Jessie. “From there we discussed creating a small jewellery collection that followed on from and reflected the shapes of the hardware.”
With a focus on clutch bags with solid brass clasps, in either matte black, mock crock or an inky blue and black leather, the D – ring shape was then echoed on to earring and rings: “We wanted to keep the jewellery element of the collaboration really cohesive and concise which was a really interesting challenge as I’ve never worked on a jewellery collection of only 4 key styles before.” Each piece is available in either yellow gold or silver, adding some diversity and allowing the designs to be worn as single, statement pieces or even stacked and combined for a different look.
Released in Autumn, we predict this collaboration will be a big hit.
When it comes to jewellery for SS14, one statement piece comes out on top. The choker is yet another 90’s trend that’s being re-introduced into our lives. This time however, it’s less Spice Girls, more Celine, taking inspiration from the chic and minimal to give us a oversized piece that works with nearly every outfit. Here, Twin picks the top four chokers on the market.
Pearl Choker, £15.99, zara.com & Giuseppe Zanotti Stud And Buckles Choker, £360, luisaviaroma.com
Just last year, siblings Mark Jewsbury and Anna Jewsbury founded contemporary jewellery brand COMPLETEDWORKS. They see jewellery design as an art form, fusing together creative concepts and ideas that produce stunningly simplistic pieces that give us a fresh take on fine jewellery. Twin caught up with the two of them to talk inspirations, signature collections and carving out a path.
As a brother and sister duo, who does what respectively when it comes to COMPLETEDWORKS as a brand?
Anna: As we’re still in the early stages of the brand, we still have very overlapping and interchangeable roles and we often find ourselves working on the same thing, but bringing our own perspective to it.
Anna, your degree is in Mathematics & Philosophy. What do you feel that brings to the table? And Mark, what did you do before starting COMPLETEDWORKS?
A: I think everything depends on the approach you take. I’ve found that the common thread between mathematics, philosophy and fine jewellery, is that there is a way to approach each of these disciplines where the first test of quality is beauty. Of course, when you make the piece nothing stays so theoretical.
Mark: I studied History so I wasn’t doing anything directly relevant to jewellery either. But I think this has forced us to be more observant in our approach. I think you can learn a lot by just looking around at how people in different disciplines operate, you don’t necessarily need a lot of access to them to observe them and see how they work and get a sense of how they would react in certain situations.
What made you decide to start a jewellery brand together?
M: I don’t think we ever really set out to work with jewellery. I think what happened was that we had an interest in exploring ideas and a curiosity with history and stories, and we kept developing these themes and we found we wanted to find a way to represent them. The jewellery came about as a result of our looking for a process that would allow us to balance these interests visually and in clear compositions.
A: In setting up the brand we were very much influenced by the old idea of an artistic or literary movement. We wanted to set up a business that emulated that continuity, a group of people who retain their individuality but at the same time are able to relate to one another.
Where do you find most of your inspiration?
A: The idea inspires us first and at the moment that has come from literature or history, then we look for the aesthetic or the way to connect the idea visually and the inspiration for that comes from everywhere. In the case of the Pillar collection a trip Mark took to Lebanon was one of our references.
Pillar is your signature collection. What do you think this says about you as a contemporary jewellery brand?
M: We want to share the ideas that lead to the creation of the collections and in doing so create a shared interest with the people who engage with the brand. We talk a lot about putting ideas into our work, but at the same time we don’t want those ideas to engulf the person wearing the pieces. It is good to maintain a certain lightness in the jewellery. You have to get all the other things right first: it has to fit perfectly and be striking and have a certain uniqueness, then you can layer an idea into a piece or connect it with a certain way of thinking.
A: Yeah, we think it is important to craft the jewellery so that it can integrate with the real world, not the other way round. We’re not trying to force art or anything else into jewellery, but say that our pieces can still function as pieces of jewellery and as products and be enjoyed as such, while at the same time having an element of critical thinking to them. This is why at the moment distortion is very important to us. We find distortions are a very simple and minimal way of inviting the wearer to mentally enter the work in a way that doesn’t become overbearing or arrogant.
You are stocked at SHOWstudio and have your own e-store. Where would you like to see your designs in the future? A: We’d love to see our pieces in places that build around an aesthetic with original values.
Having launched just last year, what does 2014 hold for COMPLETEDWORKS? A: We feel that we should earn our place in the jewellery world, so we’re simply going to be concentrating on building a body of work and from this point we hope to carve our own path.
When in Covent Garden stop off at Crazy Pig Designs. Oddball name aside, we love their mind-blowingly detailed jewellery – take the miniscule spinning bullet cylinder on their trademark revolver earrings. Popular with the great and the good of the rock world, their work has been worn by Ozzy Osbourne, ZZ Top and Metallica. Oh, and Alexa Chung. This solid gold skull ring is top of our Christmas wish lists.
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