For its September 2016 Topshop Unique collection, customers around the world will be able to immediately shop a selection of looks straight from the runway as they appear before them.
Taking place on 18th September, the show will be a pioneering highlight of the upcoming London Fashion Week schedule, and see East London’s iconic Old Spitalfield’s market as the setting for the mother of all democratic industry initiatives.
The clever approach to enabling all to sample the new season wares with such immediacy is both technology-led, with select styles being available to shop online, as well as physical, thanks to a capsule edit of pieces also being ready to buy in key stores around the world.
Topshop has always operated as a particularly consumer-driven brand, and this September is further proof, if needed, that it is a company that places the focus firmly on its customers. In a statement released to the press, Mary Homer, Topshop’s Managing Director, said: “Bringing our customers closer to the London Fashion Week experience has always been a focus for us, but now, more than ever, in a rapidly changing global marketplace where consumers demand immediacy, we recognise the importance of disrupting the traditional model.”
Twin was one of a handful of titles that had exclusive access to the collection on offer earlier this year, and what is coming up will not disappoint. Oversize, cropped puffer jackets were a highlight, as were the nods to ’80s tailoring, delicate evening slips and clever-as-always tailoring.
“The starting point for the Unique collection is always the celebration of British style and its rich heritage, so we feel Spitalfields provides the perfect backdrop to showcase our new collection. With a history steeped in over 350 years of selling to the general public, we also feel it’s a fitting venue in which to debut our ‘Runway-to-Retail’ concept.” – Kate Phelan, Topshop’s Creative Director
As the fashion pack decamps to Paris for the next round of Autumn / Winter 15 womenswear shows, Twin revisits London Fashion Week – the off-guard moments, the new stars of design and the risk-takers who made us sit up and take notice.
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Back to Winter basics was the theme for designer and NewGen recipient Paula Gerbase this season, as her signature androgynous vision continued with structured tailoring, loose fit trousers and knitwear taking the form of longer-length dresses, high polo necks and a sleeveless knit tunic. Utility detailing worked against the neutral colour palette of chalky whites, navy and grey, as the Barbican’s glass roofed conservatory provided a leafy sanctuary and tropical oasis of calm during a hectic fashion week – a setting which blended perfectly with this effortlessly understated collection.
Turning her presentation into a live lookbook shoot – complete with photographer Yuvali Thesis and illustrator Clym Evernden capturing the moment – Charlie May invited the audience behind the scenes into her world of clean-cut modernism. Set in Mayfair’s art-deco inspired Beaumont Hotel, the collection presented an oversize silhouette as generous shapes framed the body in a mix of shearling, leather and rich wools – the emphasis was on tactile textures, quality cuts and winter seen through a fresh minimalist focus.
Experimenting with the concept of deconstruction of textural fabrics, the designer drew inspiration from the tape-wrapped sculptures of British artist Phyllida Barlow.
Creating a collection which included oversize silhouettes in lambswool and elastomeric yarn, raw unfinished holes were left in the garments, paired with heavy leather boots by Kult Domini, evoking a woolly 90s grunge aesthetic.
Set against a landscape of meteor-like rocks, her vision transformed Chelsea College of Arts into a post-apocalyptic playground, with the odd pop of gold bleeding through the romantic darkness.
We are sailing was a key reference for Raeburn’s nautical-inspired collection, Immerse, which continued the theme from his AW15 Menswear show, offering a bold exploration of the textures, shapes and colours associated with a life on the seas. A merino wool cape, puffer jacket, pea coat and duffel coat all reinvented the sailor aesthetic, in muted blues and life-jacket orange.
His shark print motif was in full effect across knitwear and jumpsuits while fur detailing and long ponchos injected a casually luxe elegance into his signature mix of modern technical outerwear. Shark-shaped bags and mittens gave things a playful twist. Aye aye captain.
The basement of a Soho car park complete with silver foil blankets for warmth, provided the setting for Joseph’s take on desconstructed femininity – and the blanket association didn’t stop there. Across an almost nude colour palette, heavy knits and blanket fabrics seamlessly blended with silk, fur and cashmere to evoke an organic cozy familiarity, as hard oversize masculine cuts played against the softness, unravelling a seductive femininity – inspiration drawn from the work of sculptor Robert Morris.
In a collection which included threadbare knits with drop-stitching, fur tunics and blanket dresses, all worn with velcro strap sandals and thick woolly ankle socks, it evoked the feeling of coming in from the cold, with added comfort.
Do you wanna be in their gang? Yes please. The Sibling trio continued to put the fun into reworked classics, with an energetic collection which fused a myriad of textural styles, including signature cobwebbed knits, fuzzy furs, lyrically-splashed polished latex and a reinvented tweed two-piece in knitted lurex.
Drawing inspiration from the vibrant hues of the late Danish furniture and interiors designer Verner Panton, 80s neon pinks and sherbet oranges called for attention across colour-block knits, slinky knit dresses and skinny scarves, as detailing from beaded brooches and badges evoked those Saturday trips to Camden Market as a teenager, the one with only DIY on your mind. Slim and sexy silhouettes injected glamour into a collection which celebrated being too cool for school, complete with punk-edged mohawks.
The signature slogan sweater made its entrance too, paying homage to the show’s soundtrack by Blondie – Call Me it said, and if you saw one of Sibling’s girls hanging out at a party… you would definitely try to get her number.
From behind a key-hole underneath a neon sign that read “Ashley’s”, out stepped Georgia May Jagger and Alice Dellal along with a gang of cool cultish skater girls, transporting you back to the future, as 80s and 90s references signified a collection which celebrated subverting conventional dress codes. Taking inspiration from riot-grrl founder Kathleen Hanna, actress Chloe Sevigny and the 1985 Beastie Boys track, Girls, out came leather corsets (think vice and all things nice), heavy metal tees, neon pink cropped jumpers, fur bucket hats, vampish PVC dresses, leggings with knee holes, mini dresses decorated in patches, cartoon face print dresses and knit jumpers and skirts featuring graphics by Fergus Purcell.
This was in no way a bubblegum sweet collection, it was hard and fast for girls with a bold attitude who aren’t afraid to express themselves, defined by bratty slogans like “Improve Your Image. Be Seen With Me.” Now that’s confidence for you.
Who knew that stripper chic could be so covetable, as a troupe of sassy girls stomped out clad in a powerful and provocative collection which drew inspiration from Jane Fonda’s character Bree Daniels, in the cult 70s movie Klute.
Signature sequin embellishment took on a new form across pumped-up camouflage parkas, mini skirts and jumpers with fur trims, while stonewashed denim was roughed up for the streets, cut into dresses, jackets and lace-up jeans decorated with stud detailing. Boudoir-ready nighties with lace trimming sent the temperature soaring, along with lipstick-red latex boots and a patchwork fur slogan jumper which simply read, “Sex” – watching this collection, you couldn’t help but have it on your mind.
There’s a new cocktail in town and it’s called ‘Topshop Unique’, as the fashion powerhouse blended one part outdoorsy daytime English heritage with one part slinky night owl, serving up a decadent mix of sexed-up kilts, vinyl miniskirts, dandelion print dresses with thigh-high slits, marabou trimmed dresses, embellished velvet frocks, Aran knits, retro roll necks and faux fur-lined duffel coats.
Mixing the conventional with the unconventional, this was a gilded happy hour full of posh girls from the countryside who come to the city to party (yah yah), kicking off their red square-toed velvet shoes at the end of the night. We’ll cheers to that.
Design duo Marques’Almedia’s catwalk presentations are always a highlight on our London Fashion Week schedule, and this season was no different. Twin photographer Sophia Aerts captured the show and all its glorious details.
Our London Fashion Week series continues with Thomas Tait. As the first LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize winner, there was much speculation as to what he would create for AW15. Sophia Aerts went backstage to find out.
Next up in our backstage series is Michael van der Ham. Twin sent Sophia Aerts to capture the stunning autumn/winter 2015 designs about to walk the catwalk in the grand salon of the Tate Britain.
Helen Lawrence presented her playful knitwear collection for AW15 at the Chelsea College of Arts this Fashion Week. Twin sent photographer Sophia Aerts to shoot all the action.
Fashion may be having a 70’s moment, but JW is pushing for a change of decade – the 80’s to be exact. We sent Sophia Aerts backstage to capture the designer’s AW15 London Fashion Week show in all it’s glory.
Margaret Howell presented her AW15 collection during London Fashion Week yesterday. Photographer Sophia Aerts captured the collection backstage, where we found all the elements of Howell’s signature designs, including that masculine meets feminine aesthetic.
London Fashion Week starts tomorrow, and with it comes a host of shows, exhibitions and events, all in celebration of the season ahead. In preparation, we’ve gathered together four key products that will prove to be rather handy over the next five days.
It’s as though all sense of routine is thrown out and a diet of Propercorn, caffeine and alcohol becomes the norm. To hide the effects of dehydration, we’ll be applying Aesop’s Elemental Facial Barrier Cream at every chance. Lord & Berry’s Twistick will provide our lips with ample moisture, while leaving a sheer yet pigmented colour. For fragrance we’ve turned to UÈRMÌ, a new line inspired by fabrics such as denim and silk, so now our scent can reflect our sartorial choices. And to keep our hands and body ready for the long days ahead, we’ll be calling upon Rodin’s Luxury Hand and Body Cream.
St Petersburg native Timur Kim continued to hone his signature patchwork technique for SS15, as seen at LFW last month. Updating denim with digital prints, the show saw models marching down the runway in pleats, tailoring and clean silhouettes.
With the precision of an architect, Kim focuses on the structural integrity of each garment. Each item is handmade in his Dalston studio, where he produces both his RTW collections and one-off bespoke pieces.
Having worked with fashion greats including, Alexander McQueen, the fusion of bold colour and striking shapes in his latest collection has a distinctly retromodern feel that is uniquely Kim’s own.
London born and based jewellery designer Rachel Boston showed her first fine jewellery collection at London Fashion Week. Full of beautifully wrought, geometric pieces, the items in the collection have the potential to become treasured heirlooms. Twin chats to the New Designer of the Year nominee.
When did you decide you wanted to go into jewellery design? I knew that I wanted to design jewellery from very early on. I always liked working with my hands so would use my parent’s toolbox and take apart my sister’s jewellery and put it back together in different ways – which I’m sure she didn’t enjoy too much. I then started basing all my projects in my Design and Technology class around jewellery so that I could build up my portfolio and work towards getting in to a jewellery course at university, which I did.
Why did you decide to study at the Gemological Institute in New York rather than stay in the UK? I grew up in London and also stayed here for university at Central Saint Martins, so really felt like I needed to experience what it was like to live somewhere else, even for a short while. New York has always had such an allure to it for me that when I found out they did the course there it seemed crazy not grab the opportunity. It was the best decision I ever made. I met so many amazing people on the course from all over the world but also met my boyfriend whilst living out there and we’ve been doing long distance for almost 3 years now, which seems crazy to most people but works really well for us.
You showed your first fine jewellery collection at LFW; why did you decide to move into fine jewellery? Making jewellery that wasn’t trend based and seasonal has always been very important to me. I’ve wanted to create pieces that could be worn forever and passed on as gifts to others so I decided it was necessary that the materials reflected this also. The price point is higher because it’s 18ct gold now instead of plated, but you have the reassurance that these are pieces that will not tarnish, the gold will not fade and you can theoretically pass these onto your grandchildren and they will stay in good condition. The history and the meaning that is given to jewellery and how people become attached to it is one of the reasons I fell in love with it in the first place, so making fine jewellery has happened very naturally.
Do you craft each piece by hand yourself? I do. As of right now every piece is made in my studio off Hatton Garden (London’s jewellery district) and all the materials are sourced locally. As the business keeps growing this won’t be feasible for me making every piece as it’s a huge amount of work but I’d like to keep it in the studio and based in the UK as I’m a big supporter for British craftsmanship.
What is your favourite piece so far?
It changes all the time but from the new fine collection I think the Jera ear cuffs or the hinged Dagaz ring. The hinged ring is really comfortable and I barely notice I’m wearing it so it’s a great statement piece you can wear everyday. I love the Jera earrings because they fit the ear really nicely and I have the white sapphires specially cut here in London so I they’re very special because it’s such an unusual cut to have.
What is your favourite item of jewellery? Earrings, necklaces, bracelets or rings? With me more is always more so I like layering necklaces, playing with different lengths and piling rings on for more of a statement. I tend to dress quite casually for the studio, generally just jeans, plain tee and a leather jacket so I love wearing a lot of rings to create more of a statement.
What are the key jewellery trends coming up for SS15? The market is definitely leaning more towards fine jewellery these days, which I’m really happy about. I think people are starting to realise how much better it is to invest in one significant piece then spending lots of little bits of money on high street jewellery which falls apart so quickly.
What are your plans for your brand – where will you be this time next year? I’m doing a lot more bespoke engagement ring work which I adore doing. It’s a huge honour to be asked to create someone’s ring that they intend to wear forever and I love working with couples to create something unique, so I definitely would like to do more of that. Otherwise I want the brand to keep growing both in the UK market and internationally and at some point open a small store in London.
What would your advice be to someone who wants to go into jewellery design? I think it’s important to learn patience and how to figure out your own path and style. I definitely think you have to build a strong foundation on the technical side as well and not just fob it off and give everything to someone else to do for you, you don’t learn that way and you don’t end up pushing yourself.
Who is your ultimate jewellery/fashion inspiration? Most of my favourite fashion muses are from bygone eras but I love the androgynous style of my heroines like Patti Smith and Joan Jett; they exude this amazingly powerful energy and are such strong women so anything they wear looks automatically cool.
As the fashion pack heads to Milan, we look back at the Burberry SS15 show from London Fashion Week. Titled The Birds & The Bees, Christopher Bailey’s vision for spring featured butterfly and honey bee motifs, along with bright bold font designs. Those same prints were hand-painted on the runway and plastered on the transparent roof, further illustrating Bailey’s inspirations. The Mac, more than just a Burberry staple, came in denim, suede or satin, and some were cropped or flared. And of course, everything was tied in a cute tulle sash bow.
This season Burberry partnered up with YouTube, giving us unrivalled access to the SS15 show highlights and much more. Watch the video below.
Before starting his eponymous label, Patrick Li worked for some of fashion’s most established designers of avant-garde. Names such as Hussein Chalayan and Viktor & Rolf, and as a graduate of Royal College of Art’s MA Womenswear course, he is a true master of his craft. The pieces he creates are sculpted from his imagination, giving us an insight into Li’s world of expression. One we can’t wait to see more of.
Patrick Li will be showcasing his SS15 collection at London Fashion Week, but we caught up with the designer before the fashion season rush to find out more about the man behind the clothes.
When did you decide on a career in fashion?
Growing up I was always drawn to art and crafts, anything creative. I knew that it was something I was good at and felt great doing. Although fashion was not something that crossed my mind at first, it was the stimulating images in glossy fashion magazines that drew me in. I took a foundation course in art and design and tried out different disciplines in alternative creative areas. As a result I came to study fashion and have never looked back.
What does fashion mean to you?
Fashion is visual and a medium of self expression.
What attracted you to London as a place to start your brand?
London is one of the most creative and exciting cities to live and work in, I have liked it ever since my first visit. There are less boundaries and rules about fashion in London, which gives it the edge over other fashion capitals. It helps promote creative start-ups.
Your designs are heavily detailed and intricate. What inspires them?
The inspiration is drawn from various elements of research, mostly from visual imagery, which I then develop from there. I have taken quite a relaxed and free approach when beginning to gather thoughts and inspiration for AW14. Instead of focusing on a singular theme, I listened to 90’s and early millennium electronic tunes, and looked at abstract black and white photography of urban objects and city landscape. I was especially inspired by the composition of repetitive patterns and regimented lines in the images. The aluminum chain details were developed from there.
What are your favourite materials to use?
I tend to work with different contrasting materials every season, however, there are always silks in my collections.
Describe the Patrick Li design ethos in three words…
Modern, clean and graphic.
Your SS14 collection was very light with flashes of neon, whereas AW14 is very dark and broody. Can we expect another bright collection for SS15?
SS15 will be light and a bit more playful. Spring/Summer is always light for me, whereas Autumn/Winter needs a stronger and more protective feel.
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