Earlier this month Italian fashion house Bottega Veneta released fresh new images for their Spring Summer 2019 campaign. Marking the first campaign for the brand under the new creative direction of Daniel Lee.
The designer was appointed in June, which allowed him means he missed the opportunity for the design process of the SS19 collection but was still able to edit it. However the creative direction of the campaign was solely led by his vision. The previous Céline designer teamed up with photographer Tyrone LeBon to present a selection of images influenced by minimalism and Italian coasts. Shot on the Neapolitan island of Ischia, the images are said to strip fashion and art down to their purest forms in a way which highlights and appreciates their similarities. A black trench coat, woven leather, knit, squared toed pumps. The campaign was a sort of visual documentary on the relationship between skin and material. This peek of the designer’s taste and appreciation for beauty is just enough to gather him an audience of eager new consumers leading up to his debut show later this month, especially during this time when old Céline consumers are scouting elsewhere.
This season, M.1992 designer Dorian Tarantini referenced the allure of the past as major inspiration behind the FW19 menswear collection presented yesterday in central Milan. The designer invited guests to a 60’s inspired vintage ballroom in a corporate Milanese hotel as he revealed a collection which although gave nods to the swinging sixties, was aimed at the upcoming generation, Gen Z. It began with big hair, flared sleeves and pants, and continued with full patterned looks leading into Baracuta jackets and tailored blazers. Also included was an ode to Britain, as the designer paid tribute by including printed designs of the British flag and signature British style throughout a few pieces, which he states in his show notes, does not act as a form of appropriation, but rises from an authentic sense of belonging having been a frequent traveler between the two worlds as a child. As his fourth official season on the scene, Tarantini is finally beginning to establish a design voice which speaks for itself, the collection was one which not only felt cohesive, but also held strong evident traits of brand personality.
Last season Chinese designer Anna Yang, presented her collection on the Spring Summer 2109 runways of Milan which she entitled ‘Fashion Glitch.’ The collection represented a crossroad between the themes of tradition and rebellion. Oversized volumes and neon coloured unorthodox pieces were deconstructed and given traditional silhouettes. It highlighted some qualities of fashion that would be considered glitches in a daring, experimental yet dauntless way. It included PVC fabrics, crystal and studded embroidery , denim and patent leather. The designer’s signature, has always been one which showcases the ethics of streetwear in a trendy, bright-coloured, experimental manner which always seems to pay off in the end. Each season, she aims to keep things fresh and keeps her audience on their toes without being too perilous or couture. Discover the full collection at Annakiki.com.
Italian designer Antonio Marras dug deep into the unexpected for the inspiration behind his Spring Summer 2019 collection title The Fault of The Mistral. Arriving to the show a few minutes early, the first familiar attribute was the sound of Nina Simone’s music playing from the outside as the models capped their final rehearsal. As the curtains opened and the audience was let in, what was to be discovered was a series of door jams aligned along the runway with sacks tied atop each one. This show was slightly different from all the others, it carried a message that came across as personal. Marras’ stimuli behind the collection was based on his wife’s recollection of an Ethiopian princess she once met. Princess Romanework, eldest daughter of Emperor Haile Selassie of Ethiopia who was captured during the battle against the Italian army and forced to live on the exile island of Asinara.
The collection embodied a tropical woman dressed in shades of military green gowns, coats and sweaters. Flashes of floral prints, white, beige and lace appear throughout intervals. This was not just clothing being presented at a show, this was a story being told, some models wore headpieces which mimicked flower wreaths and at the end of the show there was a performance. An emotional bevy of men in underwear with shoes tied around their necks, rushing together to salute one another and then ripping the sacks tied atop the door jams, where a flow of sand emptied upon them. This was not just a show, it was a carefully orchestrated re-enactment of poetry. The only note to be taken is that since this was a story of an Ethiopian princess, it would have been ideal for the casting to better reflect that. If making an ode to Ethiopian princesses, go all out, hairstyling and everything. However the designer is definitely one to keep an eye on as he is one who chooses to go a little bit of an extra mile further.
For his SS19 collection, N.21 designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua, opted to turn his head away from the fast-selling streetwear direction of the industry and focus on a more sensual side of the brand.
“I’m over streetwear and sportswear at the moment. I started from a desire for light and warmth, to rediscover the body’s natural physicality.”
Sneakers were thrown in for socks and sandals, t-shirts for button ups. There were also raincoats, the brands signature photo inserted shirts, nylon pouch bags and totes.
The collection had a familiar simplicity accompanied by a whiff of femininity which made you want to ask for more. It was a celebration of the sensual man.Was this the brand’s official proclamation towards a more permanentformal aesthetic? And if so, will he then give up the shorts for tailored trousers next season?
Whatever direction chosen the brand should look to exaggerate their inspiration. At times their signature simplicity might be mistaken for indolence and repetition.
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